Help Designing Chan Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Dapper Dandy, Jul 11, 2006.

  1. Dapper Dandy

    Dapper Dandy Senior member

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    I've got an appointment with Chan this Saturday for my first non-OTR suit. I think I've got a pretty good checklist below, but I'd love to hear critiques and suggestions. Basically, I'm 5'10" and 175 pounds. Due to my obsession with weight lifting, I've got a fairly athletic build, with broad shoulders, a big chest, thick thighs, big butt, and fairly skinny waist, all relative to my bone structure and natural build (I'm naturally small-boned, so broad shoulders for me isn't broad for a naturally big-boned guy). I'm not super-skinny, but I want something that fits better than an OTR sack suit. I feel like I'm a little bit on the short side, so anything that can help give the illusion of height would be a bonus for me.

    I work in a business casual environment, so this suit is basically just for fun. I'm looking for something a little more modern, a light grey single-breasted peak lapel suit for spring/summer. I already have basic blue and charcoal suits, and a winter suit, so I've got the basics covered.

    I'm wanting comments on my selections below because I'm worried I might create some sort of mongrel that doesn't go together well at all. Although I understand most of these details, I don't have the experience required to see the selections as a composite whole. Thus, I'd love to hear any comments or critiques. BTW, this designing your own suit thing is really fun. [​IMG]

    Jacket
    - Lapel width - fairly narrow

    - Gorge height - does this apply to peak lapels?

    - Real or false lapel buttonhole - real

    - Button stance (high, normal, low) - normal to low; I like long, slender lapels

    - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - normal

    - Shoulder padding - light to none -- but I want a nicely roped shoulder

    - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - fairly tight and high

    - Sleeve taper/circumference - wide enough to accommodate FC shirts

    - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - undecided; I may wait and have Chan finish the sleeves on his next tour

    - Number of sleeve buttons - four

    - Sleeve buttons normal or "kissing" - slightly kissing (touching) but not overlapping

    - Jetted or flapped pockets - flapped

    - Single, double, or no vents - double

    - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - slightly short/modern but nothing extreme

    - Inside pockets (up to you) - one on each side, big enough for a wallet or cell phone

    - Outside extra pocket - No ticket pocket

    - Peak or notch - peak

    - SB or DB - SB

    - Buttons (SB) - 1, 2, 3 - and how it should roll - Either one or two buttons

    - Waist suppression - yes, a moderate amount

    - Lean or swelled chest - not sure what this means, but whatever works best for me

    - Clean or draped - not sure what this means, but whatever works best for me

    - Straight or hacking pockets - hacking

    - Roped or non-roped shoulders - roped but not with too much shape and very little padding

    - Raised arm holes or not - slightly raised

    - Lining (and if you like a different sleeve lining) - will choose based on options presented

    - Closed or Open Quarters- fairly closed; my prominent posterior has a habit of pulling open quarters open too far

    - Pick Stitching- yes, on lapels, breast pocket, and waist pockets. On pants, around the pockets and zipper.


    Trousers
    - Button or zipper fly - zipper

    - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - slightly angled

    - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - both buttoned

    - Leg taper - very slight

    - Leg width - full due to large thighs

    - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - plain, no cuffs

    - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - flat front

    - Square latch, latch with button loop - latch with button loop

    - Belt loops or brace buttons - Probably belt loops, although debating no belt loops and wearing sans belt

    Normal waist, side tabs, brace back - normal, although I'll get side tabs if I go for no belt loops

    Rise (low, medium, high) - fairly low based on body shape and where I like to wear my pants
     


  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Sounds nice. I don't know about the combination of peaked lapels and narrow lapels, however. I don't think that look - long, narrow peaked lapels - is going to look good after very much time, to the extent that they even look good now... I think it's pretty "fahion-y" and for your first custom suit, and I wouldn't do it. Either do regular width peaked lapels, or narrow notched lapels (which, though also fashiony, might have a bit more staying power).
     


  3. Dapper Dandy

    Dapper Dandy Senior member

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    Z, good point regarding lapel width. How about lapels slightly narrower than half the distance from the collar to the shoulder, rolling up from just above the button (or top button, if it's a 2B)?
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The gorge on a peaked lapel coat needs to be slightly lower than a similarly cut notched lapel coat. You don't want the points of the peaks to stick up past the visible shoulderline.
     


  5. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Z, good point regarding lapel width. How about lapels slightly narrower than half the distance from the collar to the shoulder, rolling up from just above the button (or top button, if it's a 2B)?
    sounds good to me
     


  6. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    - Button stance (high, normal, low) - normal to low; I like long, slender lapels
    ...

    - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - slightly short/modern but nothing extreme

    I don't think this is going to look good.

    !luc
     


  7. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Rise (low, medium, high) - fairly low based on body shape and where I like to wear my pants
    I don't think that's the best choice for your body type. If you have "developed glutes," low-rise trousers aren't going to drape well.
     


  8. Dapper Dandy

    Dapper Dandy Senior member

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    Luc, thanks for the comment. I'm guessing you're concerned that the suit will end up all lapel and very little below the button? I think that's a very valid concern, so I've decided to have the button at my natural waist, perhaps 1-2 inches above my navel. I'm hopeful that this will strike the right balance.
     


  9. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I would also take zjpj's advice one step further and suggest that you temper your expectations on this suit. Getting on the same page as a tailor, even a really good one, is likely to require more than one suit. Since you're asking for a suit that's a significant departure from Chan's house style, you're likely to get one that fits well and is reasonably well-constructed but one that doesn't quite fit the mental image you have now.
     


  10. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I think that a first order from Chan should be a fairly conservative one that does not deviate dramatically from the house style, done in the least expensive material available.

    For a first order it is difficult to resist the temptation to do a kitchen sink custom suit with lots of unusual touches, but it's a good idea to go conservative because you may find that you tire of a "bells and whistles" suit, or that it becomes dated, rather quickly. In that vein, I'd suggest not going with hacking pockets, particularly on a lightweight and light-colored fabric for spring/summer wear.

    Another first order issue is the fact that through communication problems, tailor error, or customer error, things may not fit precisely the way you wanted them to. That can be problematic when there are no interim fittings, and is why it's good to get the measurements down perfectly before branching off into variances from the house style--fewer variables to address via alterations.

    And if you have picked a less expensive fabric, any bad choices or minor problems will bother you a lot less than if you jumped into the Scabal or Zegna books.
     


  11. Dapper Dandy

    Dapper Dandy Senior member

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    Thanks again for all the advice. I will try to temper my expectations, and also bring pictures to show Chan what it is I want. I'd love to hear where I've deviated from Chan's house style (I guess I'm not exactly sure what that is for Chan). I definitely don't want to push the limits of what Chan can do for my first suit.

    Oh yeah, as to the low-rise pants, I guess I mean low-rise compared to what I usually get, but regular rise on me. I typically have to buy pants in a size 34 then have them taken in in the waist, but that still leaves the rise too long. I think this will be fine once Patrick sees where I usually wear my pants.
     


  12. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    With a bespoke suit, you don't need belt loops. Side adjusters are nice though, and keep the front looking clean.

    I'd go with working buttons on the sleeves. The sleeve length should be correct if that's what you're worried about. You're getting measured in person after all.

    I agree with the above suggestions. Going with peak lapels and one button may get old fast if you haven't done it before. I think narrow notch lapels, waist suppression, and two button will last you forever. Roped shoulders aren't for everyone -- certainly not me -- but it can look good. What might help with height ARE hacking pockets despite the cries here to not do it. Broad shoulders may not be a good idea in this respect too. Go with a regular rise as well. All these other choices seem pretty good.
     


  13. mrchapel

    mrchapel Senior member

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    Following in line with what others have said, definitely reconsider your expectations. This is just to be cautious; after all going bespoke is not cheap. But then again, you do have other suits, so if you're bold enough to get all of these bells and whistles, go for it, and I have every hope that Chan meets your expectations, if not surpasses them.

    A couple notes on the peaked lapels; make sure you keep them regular width, and follow Manton's advice as to a lower gorge. Otherwise it's going to look extremely out of place. Although I am sure Chan can advise you on these issues as well.

    One last note on the lapel roll: I'd suggest a leaf roll. Personal preference on my part, but I think a leaf roll works best as opposed to a more flat roll. Looks more natural.
     


  14. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I'd go with working buttons on the sleeves. The sleeve length should be correct if that's what you're worried about. You're getting measured in person after all.

    Note that plenty of people on this board have had Chan adjust their sleeve lengths after the order. In-person measurement is not a guarantee. However, they will adjust the sleeve length for free, even if they have to remake the sleeves.
     


  15. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    If you already have the basics, why go conservative on this one....you'll end up with another basic suit instead of a suit "basically for fun". Nothing fun about a white collar uniform. The suit you're describing sounds very Dolce & Gabanna...maybe you can find a picture in a magazine that is similar to what you're envisioning and take that with you for reference. Actually I tried on a jacket similar to your description last weekend from Paul Smith. Thin peak lapel (under 3"), single button closure, fairly low buttoning point, hacking pockets etc. I think it's a great looking design myself. The only consideration is whether or not your suit model will fit *your* body type well since it sounds like a cut suited for 5'10" but at 150 lbs.
     


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