Help choosing details for first bespoke suit

[Modernist]

I've just commissioned my first bespoke suit, and since it will be a while until the second fitting, I have some time to ponder over the detailing. It'll be a three piece three buttons SB in light grey (with a nice light sheen to it) Dormeuil Atlantis Super 100s.

The cut will be slim fitting, narrow lappels, tapered trousers, low-medium rise, etc. I have trouble though picking the colour of the lining. Was either considering burgundy or maroon, or a darker shade of grey (charcoal perhaps?) with the openings of the inside pockets lined in maroon or magenda. I prefer the more colourful options, but I'm afraid whether it will limit the number of shirt/tie combinations I may have, especially considering that at times I will not be wearing the jacket, and the lining of the waistcoat will be visible.

Also, four or three buttons for the sleeves? I was considering three, slightly spaced, and the button holes stitched in different colours: (from the edge of the sleeve) blue, white and red thread (the colours of the Union Jack actually). Too much...?

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by Modernist

Also, four or three buttons for the sleeves? I was considering three, slightly spaced, and the button holes stitched in different colours: (from the edge of the sleeve) blue, while and red thread (the colours of the Union Jack actually). Too much...?

Too much on the R/W/B buttonhole thread. Might look cool if you did burgundy or dk blue thread, and had a complimenting color lining of the same.

 

[TheFoo]

The different color threads for the buttonholes sounds a bit . . . loud. If I were having a suit made bespoke, I wouldn't try so hard to add in details to show-off its bespoke-ness. Such details can just look too affected, or worse, just weird.

I'm not sure I like the idea of colored lining in the pockets--when you sit, that lining will show and may clash with the clothes you are wearing. Why not a more subtle color for the lining, like a cream or a light blue?

I'd be thinking about what kind of internal pockets you want. I like carrying fountain pens, so I'd like to have 2 or 3 pockets dedicated to holding them.

 

[Get Smart]

slighty OT, you're from Greece with the handle "modernist" (and making a very specific kind of custom suit) so I'm assuming you're a "face"....do you know of the band The Hipstairs? Great hammond groove style band.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

I am not familiar with the fabric you are speaking of but a Maroon lining for a light grey suit seems a little wrong. I could see a fuschia (magenta), a purple, even a navy with some pink design on it but the burgundy makes me think tawdry movie theater or restaurant. Although burgundy is probably better than lime green, or orange. Oddl, a navy with orange spots might work as long as the navy color was on the royal side.

Three buttons on the sleeve is quite hip. Maybe only the middle buttonhole on each side in a contrasting thread color, or one matching a color in the lining.

When you say lining the pockets, you mean the underside of the jacket pocket flaps? Maybe line the inside of the chest pocket as well.

 

[GBR]

I would agree that any of those colours for the lining is OK. I would certainly not worry about clashing with shirt or tie at all. Few people would get even more than a glimpse.

Pocket mouths in a contrastng colour is fashionable just now as is a piping around the lining edge. Go with your preferences on all these.

More improtant is to decide what inside pockets you want. I have eight (not all used at the same time) in order to avoid unsightly bulges and ensure that they are the right size for what I need to carry.

Dislike the idea of the button holes etc. - Think it would detract from the appearance and not fit in at all - unless you are wearing the suit at informal parties and nothing more where a touch of frivolity or clown like apprearance may be OK.

 

[a tailor]

you had a first fitting already? or was that just for measuring.
three on the sleeve will match the front buttoning.
go with a lining color that moves you.
hint: dont let him make the sleeve buttonholes until you are
satisfied that the sleeve lengths are correct.
please dont do the funny buttonholes, that would spoil the suit.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by Modernist

Also, four or three buttons for the sleeves? I was considering three, slightly spaced, and the button holes stitched in different colours: (from the edge of the sleeve) blue, white and red thread (the colours of the Union Jack actually). Too much...?

yes. tri-colored button holes is way too much.

 

[Modernist]

Thank you all very much for the input. Really appreciate it.

It seems that since this is my first bespoke, I got carried away by my enthusiasm. And obviously, some moderation regarding the details is called for.

I got measured a week ago, so I'm two fittings away from finalising the details, and your input really helped me make up my mind on some of them.

Now, regarding the contrasting lining, I was referring to the mouths of the inside pockets (which will be four - 2 breast, one for glasses just below the left one, and one for cellphone just above the hem of the jacket - plus I'm havig a hidden coin pocket placed just beneath the belt). Purple or royal blue for the main colour is actually a great suggestion. Colourful, but not too much.

As for the sleeve buttonholes, in reflection perhaps it was way too loud (almost like strolling down Brighton Beach chanting, for those who have watched Quadrophenia). Although just the middle one, matching the colour of the lining... That doesn't sound bad, especially with blue or purple in mind... not at all... (thanks, film_noir_buff) Of course, I'll consult with my tailor concerning all the details...

BTW, I will not wear this suit at work, so it's suitability (sic!) in a more formal/ business environment is not an issue . I'm a software engineer, and that means that I very rarely (practically never) have to wear a suit (and I already have suits more suitable for business and formal occasions). It is just for my pleasure and enjoyment

Get Smart> Actually I'm the guitarist. Cool that an ace face digs us