Heavy weight suit instead of overcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lear, Jan 6, 2009.

  1. Lear

    Lear Senior member

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    I've been considering clothing for next winter.

    Has anyone gone down the route of dispensing with the overcoat altogether, and having a 3-piece suit made up in extra heavy fabric. I'm guessing that it would need to be bespoke, and something like 16oz plus.

    I find an overcoat a hassle to store and take care of, both on the journey, and when you arrive at your destination.

    I know that this couldn't work in Moscow or Chicago. How about the UK though?

    Lear
     
  2. Keon

    Keon Well-Known Member

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    The only problem I can think of is climate control. It was chilly inside and out when these suits were more popular. You'll want to remove your jacket if the office is too warm.
     
  3. kaxixi

    kaxixi Senior member

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    I think Manton mentioned that he does this. Edit: don't think it's with 3-pieces.
     
  4. Doc4

    Doc4 Senior member

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    This would depend on a few factors, of course, mostly related to how cold it is and how far you have to walk outside. If the most you will be doing is briskly walking a couple blocks on occasion, you can probably get away with it ... but get stuck waiting at a bus stop for 15 minutes in a cold wind wearing nothing but a suit ... and you'll regret it! Rain or snow adds a whole new factor ...


    I'd say the overcoatless-suit look is fine if the weather isn't inclement enough to require the overcoat; this is probably an "I'll do it it and when the weather permits" thing rather than a plan for the season.
     
  5. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    On a related-note, hope you dont mind, but when you purchase a formal overcoat or topcoat, do you have to estimate and get the size one above your suit size? Like this:
    Suit size 42R -> get a 44R overcoat

    Or

    Do you stick with the same overcoat size as your suit because the coat already compensates for the fact you will be wearing it over your suit?


    And
    Ive seen people wear just the overcoat over a tie and shirt. Is this (traditionally) acceptable? (Like is there actually a separate overcoat for this) or is it just a casual thing people do these days?
    Thanks
     
  6. millionaire75

    millionaire75 Senior member

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    I have a few overcoats. The size will obviously differ among makers. I always go for the smaller size as I rarely wear one with a jacket underneath (job doesn't require suit jacket). I usually wear a 40 or 42 suit and actually bought a a 38 for an overcoat.
     
  7. yfyf

    yfyf Affiliate vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I have a 16 oz tweed, it's fun to wear around in the cold winter.

    Only problem is your chest/neck will always feel a bit cold since it has no tweed covering it!
     
  8. kaxixi

    kaxixi Senior member

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    Wear a scarf. Looks kickass.

    My grandfather's SB overcoat had a very open chest, and he instructed me to wear a scarf with it. The coat was lost when my family moved [​IMG]
     
  9. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    As I've gotten more 16 oz+ suits made up I've skipped the overcoat down to say the low 30's. Getting a higher cut vest is a real help. As long as your office isn't heated to nuclear core temperature they work out fine indoors. Pretty surprising really.
     
  10. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    As I've gotten more 16 oz+ suits made up I've skipped the overcoat down to say the low 30's. Getting a higher cut vest is a real help. As long as your office isn't heated to nuclear core temperature they work out fine indoors. Pretty surprising really.
    If you're dedicated to clothes and know what you're doing it is alright to get a heavier suit and eschew the overcoat. I know someone in the industry who loves the Dugdale suit wools of 15/16 oz and wears them alone with a scarf and gloves.
     
  11. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Used to do this a lot in NE USA. Best was a 16 oz flannel three piece with gloves and a big, thick scarf. Worked to about 0 degrees Celsius, sometimes lower.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    If you're dedicated to clothes and know what you're doing it is alright to get a heavier suit and eschew the overcoat. I know someone in the industry who loves the Dugdale suit wools of 15/16 oz and wears them alone with a scarf and gloves.

    So how come when I do it, it is a sign of hopeless iGentry? [​IMG]

    Congrats on getting to four days! It's possible I have simply missed one, but I am going to give you credit anyway.
     
  13. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    I'll often wear my flannel suits with a scarf and gloves without an overcoat. I do this most often when I'm attending conferences or receptions and don't want the hassle of storing my coat, or I plan to leave early and don't want the act of getting my overcoat to call attention to my early departure. In these situations I store my scarf and gloves in my briefcase.
     
  14. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Wearing a hat makes a BIG difference as well.
     
  15. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    Wearing a hat makes a BIG difference as well.
    I agree. If it's really cold, I'll put on my stocking cap along with the scarf and gloves. It's not very handsome, but it serves its purpose.
     

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