• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 4: Goodyear welted shoes from Cobbler Union

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 4th auction is for a pair of Goodyear welted Shoes from Cobbler Union. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Heavy Weight Overcoating

brescd01

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
543
Reaction score
6
I was thinking a double-breasted overcoat from birds eye fabric as depicted in the famous picture of the Duke (this fabric has been characterized as tweed by Michael Alden but it does not look at all like tweed), but where to get 900 gram-plus fabric (besides the London Lounge Cloth Club)? Even if I were a member, the Cloth Club fabrics are selected by Alden and have lengthy delivery times (some of their projects have dragged on for years).
 

NoVaguy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
6,555
Reaction score
134
Originally Posted by Will
You could also ask yourself whether a Philadelphia resident really needs a ten pound overcoat. Though I suppose the cardiovascular benefits of wearing one would be significant.

It can get really cold (below freezing, even occasionally below sub-zero) in Philadelphia.
 

Mark Seitelman

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
829
Reaction score
35
Have your tailor call Isles Textiles (516-480-0948). Stanley Cohen does not deal with the retail public, therefore, have your tailor call.

Isles handles British cloth. A request for a very heavy cloth might fall outside the usual books and inventory, but Mr. Cohen might be able to special order it.

Good luck.
 

nordicstyle

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
702
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by Will
Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

No reason the doctor should not have what he wants but for temperature control an 18 ounce topcoat is more than enough.


Maybe he wants to wear it without any other clothes under it?
 

NoVaguy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
6,555
Reaction score
134
Originally Posted by Will
Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

No reason the doctor should not have what he wants but for temperature control an 18 ounce topcoat is more than enough.


I think there is a difference between normally being moderate and capable of being really cold. Philadelphia is moderate by Moscow standards, I guess. But it is capable of being really cold - especially, if, say, one goes outside during the evening after sundown, perhaps to catch a play downtown. I can see some utility for a 32 oz/900 g overcoat if one has a lifestyle that involves a lot of walking.

As it is, my double breasted sterlingwear peacoat is 24 oz, and I can feel the chill when the temperatures drop below freezing.
 

OxxfordSJLINY

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Messages
659
Reaction score
7
Originally Posted by Will
You could also ask yourself whether a Philadelphia resident really needs a ten pound overcoat. Though I suppose the cardiovascular benefits of wearing one would be significant.

Actually, ten pounds (which is 160 ounces) is 4,960 grams, not 900 grams (which is 30 grams shy of three pounds). Three pounds, or 930 grams, FWIW, is 48 ounces.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
Good grief.

Anyway, Bresch, I happen to know that Fox occasionally runs lengths of 43 ounce flannel. You should call them and say, "The next time you run a length of that, add four meters [or whatever you need] to the order, and I will pay for it."

They have done this for others, so I see no reason why they won't do it for you.

However, you will have a hard time finding anyone to make it. I know a guy in NY who has a length, and last I heard, he had taken to every tailor in NY, and they had all said that they couldn't work with it.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
30
Originally Posted by Will
Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

The Russians from Moscow and Siberia I know complain that Sydney is cold in the winter because there is little heating and buildings are draughty. Traditional clothing suited for really freezing temperatures is widely available in Siberia, and indoors it is so over heated it is like a sauna. Not so in places like Sydney that aren't set for cold snaps.

The other thing is that your body becomes so acclimatised to warm weather that when the temperature drops you notice it more. I have been to places that are constantly sub-zero and you do get used to it.
 

Will

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
Messages
3,144
Reaction score
45
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY
Actually, ten pounds (which is 160 ounces) is 4,960 grams, not 900 grams (which is 30 grams shy of three pounds). Three pounds, or 930 grams, FWIW, is 48 ounces.

A DB overcoat requires five meters of cloth if it has patch pockets and all the trimmings. There is some wastage but there is also the weight of the lining and canvas.

If I'm doing the arithmetic correctly, 900 gram fabric is 30 ounces per meter. Each meter of 30 ounce cloth weighs a bit less than two pounds. Five times two is ten.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
30
The other thing that people who really want to make their overcoats warm shouldn't forget is that you can get your tailor to put in interlining in the coat. You could, for example, get hold of of some flannel, cashmere, or wool/cashmere blend suiting and then get your tailor to bast it in as an extra layer between the overcoating panels and the lining. In the chest the tailor could bast the interlining to the "wrong side" (inside facing towards you) of the canvas. The interlining need not be cut to the same pattern as the overcoat, as you can just line select parts of the coat, if you choose. However, that is extra work for the tailor and potentially costly.
 

edinatlanta

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Nov 17, 2008
Messages
30,703
Reaction score
6,235
Originally Posted by Sator
The Russians from Moscow and Siberia I know complain that Sydney is cold in the winter because there is little heating and buildings are draughty.

+1.

Because of that, winters (or at least winter nights) in Oz can be pretty tough.

Especially if your place (like mine did) had large sliding glass doors to capture the view and stone floors.
 

brescd01

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
543
Reaction score
6
Manton, can you elaborate? How did Alden get his tailor to use his fabric for his "practical coat?"

By the way, 6 lbs plus trimmings @ 900 grams, Will. Don't ask me to explain.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 25 3.3%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 131 17.2%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 248 32.6%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 119 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 68 8.9%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 47 6.2%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 3.0%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.8%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 16 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 100+

    Votes: 48 6.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
428,707
Messages
9,222,810
Members
193,601
Latest member
CitizenJustin
Top