Hawkes & Co label query

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mack11211, Feb 19, 2005.

  1. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Dear Folks:

    Found a jacket recently and I am trying to guess when it was made.  Any ideas?  I don't have a picture yet, but here is description and text.

    Chester Barrie, plaid, single vent, single breasted, three button, with roll beginning above the third button. Soft shoulder.  Two buttons on each sleeve.

    Label on inside reads

    Chester Barrie
    Hand Tailored Clothes
    Hawkes, of Savile Row
    [inside of the pocket]
    1 Savile Row W1
    12, London Road, Camberly
    [insignia with lion and unicorn facing a regal innertube]
    By appointment to the Late King George V

    also, '40 Reg" is written in pencil.  This is my size.  More importantly, it fits.  The jacket is in excellent condition except that someone ripped the entire lining out of it.  Took it to Ramon at Wilfred's on 23rd St. who said replacing the entire lining would be $150, which would raise the total cost of the jacket to $155.  I don't find many plaids that please me, so I'm thinking about it.

    PS Is Hawkes a precursor to Gieves & Hawkes?
     
  2. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    1 Savile Row is G&H's address so that would seem to match.

    ...Gotta have address envy on that one

    Pictures man, we want pictures.
     
  3. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Hawkes and Co merged with Gieves around 30 years ago or so I believe. It was my impression that Gieves and Hawkes moved into the Royal Geographical Society premises at 1 Savile Row together but I could be wrong.

    The Lion and Unicorn emblem is used in Chester Barrie clothing (as in their Huntsman RTW). The fact the size is written in pencil implies that the suit's fairly old as AFAIK Chester Barrie has used printed size labels. I know that post WWII Gieves (and apparently Hawkes) made up ready-made suits to have around for customers in a hurry, so that this suit might be 30 to 40 years old.
     
  4. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    From Google and a sword forum:
    The following information comes from "London Silver-Hilted Swords" by Leslie Southwick:





    Hawkes & Co - founded c. 1771 by Thomas Hawkes (1745-1809) who is also said to have invented the shako (which made him a fortune). Established at 24 Piccadilly from c. 1794

    After Thomas Hawkes' death in 1809, the firm was taken over by Richard Moseley and changed its name to "Hawkes, Moseley & Co. It operated at various addresses, settling in 1821 at 14 Piccadilly, an address it was then to occupy for the next 90 years

    In 1856 the firm was being managed by Henry White and in 1860 he changed the name back to "Hawkes & Co."

    The firm became a public limited company in 1908 and was thus known as "Hawles & Co. Ltd."

    In 1912, it moved to 1 Savile Row at which address it has remained ever since.

    In 1974, it was taken over by the old Portsmouth uniform firm of Gieves and became "Gieves & Hawkes". It still exists in this form today.


    Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row. Founded in the 18th century as two firms. Gieves originated as Merediths of Portsmouth who supplied the Navy and were Nelson's tailors. Their London shop was opened at George Street in 1903 later moving via 21 Old Bond Street to 80 Piccadilly. In 1974 they acquired Hawkes & Co with premises in Savile Row. Hawkes had been founded in 1771 and a patron was the Duke of Wellington. Their 18th century premises acquired in 1912 had housed the map room of the Royal Geographical Society since 1870 and Livingstone's body was brought back to here from Africa.
     

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