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Having a jacket made: functional buttons question

viator

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Hi all,

I am having my first bespoke sport coat made. I asked the tailor/representative about functional buttonholes. He said that the house standard is to make the bottom two sleeve buttons functional only, but that they would be happy to make all the buttons functional if that's what I prefer. The rationale for the house default had something to do with making alterations easier in the future.

I don't really have a strong preference on this, but I thought I would ask for opinions. I doubt I would ever leave all 3-4 buttons unbuttoned (or any, really). Is there a good reason for preferring one option over the other?
 

satorstyle

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With a bespoke piece chances of the length of your arms changing that much would be unlikely. If you're planning on giving the jacket away sometime in the future than the two non working buttons would be best. All in all it's your call.
 

SuitMyself

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Originally Posted by viator

Hi all,

I am having my first bespoke sport coat made. I asked the tailor/representative about functional buttonholes. He said that the house standard is to make the bottom two sleeve buttons functional only, but that they would be happy to make all the buttons functional if that's what I prefer. The rationale for the house default had something to do with making alterations easier in the future.

I don't really have a strong preference on this, but I thought I would ask for opinions. I doubt I would ever leave all 3-4 buttons unbuttoned (or any, really). Is there a good reason for preferring one option over the other?


I like surgeon's cuffs (a.k.a. working buttonholes). They're a very good look. You'll be the envy of all your less-well-dressed friends.
 

CMD.EXE

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These should prove very useful if you ever need to perform surgery in that jacket
 

kraftar

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it's up to you, but I usually go either 2 working & 2 sham or all 4 sham. It just makes it easier to do any sleeve alterations in the future (espec if you resell or give away the jacket).
 

bellyhungry

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Just be sure to keep one or two left undown when you wear them to let people around you know you have exquisite taste
 

nmprisons

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Originally Posted by wj2009
Are you still growing? If not, their default makes no sense. By all means, it is the bottom button holes, not the top ones, that cause trouble if you ever need alteration, especially shortening.

This just isn't right. A bespoke garment is likely to adjust to the body after a couple of wearings and that could make a noticeable difference in sleeve length. Since this is his first time using this tailor, it makes a lot of sense to not open all four right away.
 

epa

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Originally Posted by nmprisons
This just isn't right. A bespoke garment is likely to adjust to the body after a couple of wearings and that could make a noticeable difference in sleeve length. Since this is his first time using this tailor, it makes a lot of sense to not open all four right away.

Really? I never experienced any need for substantial sleeve adjustment after the final fitting before taking the suit home.

But this 2+2 concept seems to be quite common: I have also been asked if I want 2 of the 4 to be working, or all of them.
 

Made in California

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Originally Posted by epa
Really? I never experienced any need for substantial sleeve adjustment after the final fitting before taking the suit home.

But this 2+2 concept seems to be quite common: I have also been asked if I want 2 of the 4 to be working, or all of them.


OP, how sure are you that you want 4 buttons?
 

Made in California

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Originally Posted by Working Stiff
Functional buttonholes is really a misnomer, isn't it? They serve no functional purpose. Why do you care?

Big pimpin
 

viator

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Originally Posted by Made in California
OP, how sure are you that you want 4 buttons?
Not sure at all. To be honest, I don't recall whether I requested 3 or 4. I was really letting them guide me on those types of details. I will be back in about a month for a fitting, so everything can be finalized at that point.

This will be a single-button, side-vented, notch lapel sportcoat in a medium brown herringbone. Slightly angled pockets, no ticket pocket. Would you suggest 3 buttons?


Originally Posted by Working Stiff
Functional buttonholes is really a misnomer, isn't it? They serve no functional purpose. Why do you care?
I suppose part of my question is whether there is some reason to care at all. One thought is that it's a point of detail that I'm paying for regardless, so I might as well have at least the 2 that they recommend.
 

Made in California

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Originally Posted by viator
Not sure at all. To be honest, I don't recall whether I requested 3 or 4. I was really letting them guide me on those types of details. I will be back in about a month for a fitting, so everything can be finalized at that point. This will be a single-button, side-vented, notch lapel sportcoat in a medium brown herringbone. Slightly angled pockets, no ticket pocket. Would you suggest 3 buttons?
Actually, that's not *quite* what I was implying:
This may or may not look best with your particular sport coat, but when getting something made especially for you, I think it is good to make it special. So just know that it's an option... The sky's the limit.
 

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