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Haversack fall/winter 2011

Discussion in 'Styleforum Frontpage' started by shoreman1782, Feb 2, 2011.

  1. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Words and photos by Pete Anderson

    Among the sea of hiking-inspired footwear at Capsule, a pair of tassel loafers really stood out. It helped that in those shoes stood a man in plus fours and suspenders, a massive (and I mean mass, not volume) shearling jacket, and voluminous scarf. Koji Norihide dominated the entryway to Capsule’s second floor in his Haversack display, surveying the incoming crowds and five racks full of Haversack samples. Norihide founded and has designed Haversack since 2001, slowly adding sublines like Attire and General, and even womenswear in 2007. Having shown at Pitti Uomo 10 times, this was his first appearance at Capsule NY.

    [​IMG]
    Coat is vintage, moustache is new.

    Mr. Norihide does not speak English, which is a shame because that's all I speak and judging by his designs, he clearly has a lot to say. The Haversack racks were one of the most varied, yet cohesive, collections at the show. Haversack clothing wears its vintage influences proudly (that shearling is vintage, apparently military issue), but the vintage Norihide mines is different from that which informs, for instance, Heller’s Cafe by Warehouse, only a few hundred feet away at Capsule. Most of the hip vintage we’ve seen in American shops for years has looked to working-class influences. Denim, workwear; I don’t have to tell you the story. Haversack’s perspective is more aristocratic, for the most part.

    [​IMG]

    By that I mean full-on thornproof tweed suits made in Japan of English fabrics, knickers, fur collars (coyote fur, in this case), Wilde-worthy velvet, and animal prints. Leather driving caps, mohair knits, and a decent amount of silk bow ties. Haversack has claimed the fall/winter 2011 stuff is descended from 1920s attire, and it shows.

    [​IMG]

    More practical dressers could dismiss Haversack as costume, and certainly the clothes here could be the costume department for a class-focused, mannered epic. The gentry are out on the hunt, blithe to the struggle of boys in the merchant navy, toiling at sea. Take it from there, Julian Fellowes. More adventurous dressers should be able to use Haversack pieces in many settings. Haversack’s main and Attire lines are dandy, for sure, but tweed jackets have become de rigeur for well-dressed guys, and idiosyncratic accessories are what can make otherwise simple, classic tailored outfits personal. Some sweaters are loud but would be much tamer under a piece of outerwear. And the matching silk shirt and bow tie (as in, same silk used for both) could be split up to decent effect.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The General Garments line, leaning heavily on an indigo palette and closer to workwear, is perfectly wearable casually. It should have particular appeal for people who appreciate the maritime direction of men’s lines like Mister Freedom, Saint James, S.N.S. Herning, etc. Quilted vests, sailor sweaters, and denim shirts are nothing new (but what really is in Haversack), but they’re made unique by Mr. Norihide’s attention to detail and Haversack's general build quality, which is superb.

    [​IMG]

    Haversack is been carried by Context Clothing and Saks Fifth Avenue. A list of stockists is available on Haversack’s site.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2011
  2. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

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    Fantastic, that dudes steeze is out of control. Well written Pete.
     
  3. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    I've never heard of this stuff, but I want everything I see in this thread.
     
  4. O'kyed

    O'kyed New Member

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  5. neyus

    neyus Senior member

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    Saw this stuff in Japan. I was blown away at how good it was for the price.

    Unfortunately couldnt fit in to it. Im just the wrong side of Large.
     
  6. mmhollis

    mmhollis Senior member

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    Thanks for posting.
     
  7. svelten

    svelten Senior member

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  8. eudaimonia

    eudaimonia Member

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  9. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    ^Different jacket, the one at context is SS11, the one above is FW11. Good looking out tho, Context's buy is decent
     
  10. eudaimonia

    eudaimonia Member

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    Right...on second look they are quite different. Sorry about that.
     
  11. Vaudevillian

    Vaudevillian Senior member

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    Is this by the same 'Pete Anderson' that writes for the guys at Très Bien Shop?

    Haversack: the author makes a good point, this is more costume design than actual fashion. I mean, I actually own a few pieces but you can wear them only when paired with more modern stuff otherwise you'll end up looking like a character pulled out from a steampunk fantasy.

    Plus, unless you buy this in Japan or at the end of the season, Haversack is way too much expensive for what it offers.
    In a similar vein (well, roughly so) I'd suggest you check ARN Mercantile.
     
  12. le.gentleman

    le.gentleman Senior member

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    Is this by the same 'Pete Anderson' that writes for the guys at Très Bien Shop?

    Haversack: the author makes a good point, this is more costume design than actual fashion. I mean, I actually own a few pieces but you can wear them only when paired with more modern stuff otherwise you'll end up looking like a character pulled out from a steampunk fantasy.

    Plus, unless you buy this in Japan or at the end of the season, Haversack is way too much expensive for what it offers.
    In a similar vein (well, roughly so) I'd suggest you check ARN Mercantile.


    Thanks for pointing out ARN Mercantile - I will have a look at their garments.
     
  13. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    Is this by the same 'Pete Anderson' that writes for the guys at Très Bien Shop?

    depends. Who's asking [​IMG]
     
  14. Vaudevillian

    Vaudevillian Senior member

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    depends. Who's asking [​IMG]

    eheh, that's you then ;-)
     
  15. Vaudevillian

    Vaudevillian Senior member

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    Thanks for pointing out ARN Mercantile - I will have a look at their garments.

    it won't add much but I just wrote a little blurb on the subject: http://etcetcetcetc.tumblr.com/post/...an-awesomeness

    I suggest you check the interview Selectism ran a while ago, it's ace.
     
  16. prurient

    prurient Senior member

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    Bought a couple of older Haversack pieces at the Opening Ceremony sample sale this past weekend. When I got home I wondered if more lookbook pictures got out since this thread was posted and found these on Hyperbeast: http://hypebeast.com/2010/12/haversa...inter-preview/ Love the comments. While I actually could NOT rock these outfits, I appreciate the craziness (which is not uncommon these days if you keep an eye on Japanese store-blogs like DicexDice or Kinksakae).
     
  17. prurient

    prurient Senior member

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    http://www.mensreverie.com/?p=33304 SS'12 on this Italian blog from Pitti. With the report of Monitaly's SS12 collection on Selectism, I feel like they all went for 70s kitsch. Really not my thing.
     
  18. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    ^Those collections are likely bigger than the previews, which I bet show the flashier pieces. Would bet there's more wearable stuff on other racks from both (altho Haversack seems to have deeper collections than Monitaly).
     
  19. SimonSays

    SimonSays Member

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