Have a few hours in NY to find wool fabric, help a newbie..

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chikkymonkey, Aug 7, 2011.

  1. chikkymonkey

    chikkymonkey Member

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    Hi,

    I am visiting New York on my way overseas and have only a few hours... I am looking to purchase some nice light wool for a few suits. I am particularly looking for dark colors, pinstriped charcoal, plain charcoal, dark navy etc..

    I have no prior experience in shopping for material, or for that matter style... I am hoping to find a place that carries lots of fabrics, so I don't need to hop around too much. a quick search online brought up moodfabrics.com and tiptop in brooklyn.. any other ideas or recommendations?

    Also, can anyone comment on what type of wool is recommended and what I can expect to pay per yard? (super 120? 130? does that mean how light it is?)

    I now have a job where I need to wear suits everyday (nice ones...)

    On a recent trip overseas I found a great tailor who did a wonderful job on some suits, but I wasn't happy with his fabrics.. so I am hoping I can send him and he'll copy my measurements..

    Thanks a lot!
     
  2. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    If you want basics, go to tip top, ask for George, don't pay more than $60/yd. If you want to spend $120/yd, go to moods.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2011
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Beckenstein has lots to choose from, suitings, sportcoats and shirtings. 39th St close to 8th Ave. They distribute Zegna and other brands. If you are sourcing your own cloth you want to know a little bit about cloth. Half the stuff clients give me to make isn't worth making. Low prices aren't always a bargain.
     
  4. chikkymonkey

    chikkymonkey Member

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    Any tips on what I should be looking for as a first time buyer? what's most important the fabric brand or super 120-150 (I don't even see that information on the mood fabrics site)..

    I also have been searching on the mood fabrics website and seems like most of their wool is very cheap.. am I looking at the wrong place (they're ranging from $12-35) I don't see those $120 you mentioned. They even have some Zegna listed at $35

    I think I will end up going to tiptop.. so if you have any recommendations I would greatly appreciate it. (I already have dark navy and charcoal suits)

    Any tips of what brands fabric I should look for? I specifically need conservative colors.. I found a great chinese tailor in Thailand who does the work himself (as oppose to lots of others who outsource to various shops).. I got two suits from him, but most of his clients aren't looking for good wool, so he had limited fabrics.. I want to send him some fabrics to have him make me a few more suits.. I have been reading searching the forum but so far haven't gotten concrete info..

    Any help greatly appreciated. I am looking to spend no more than about $200 on the fabric.. (per suit)

    P.S. although I live in a place that gets some cold weather in the winter, I sweat a lot, and therefor prefer thin material as long as it will last.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2011
  5. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    If you go to Tip Top and only have a few hours, be sure you take the train there. The BQE has been a disaster every time I've been on it this summer.
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if you only have a few hours then go straight to the airport assuming you are flying out of JFk. tip top can call a car service for you.

    otherwise go to mood.
    I know some of the places where mood buys woolens.
    I KNOW WHERE they bought the zegna fabric and it is real.

    HSM dumped over 400,000 yards of fabric into the market before their sale.about 1.5 years ago.
    there was lots of italian fabric sold off. most of it does not have woven selvedges.
    Mood, beckenstein, rosen and chadick, paron, all bought this fabric.

    how to choose. your fingers and eyes should be a big help.
    just handle the fabric and see what feels good to you.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did your tailor tell you how much cloth to buy for your size?
     
  8. chikkymonkey

    chikkymonkey Member

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    Yes, I need 3.5 meters, which I guess is pretty close to 4 yards..

    The material I chose from him was thin and seemed good, but he wasn't recommending it if I plan to wear the suit weekly.. is there a certain super fabric I should not go above if I plan on wearing the suit once a week in rotation with my others?
     
  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  10. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Do not buy higher than 120s. Check how the fabric recovers when you crumple and twist it to determine how it will wrinkle. The more it wrinkles, the less frequently you can wear it. The salesman steered you away from a fabric that needs to hang for a week after you wear it so that it doesn't look like a wrinkled rag.
     
  11. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    I bought some fabric like this from Beckenstein. Nice stuff, but too expensive. Go to Tip Top, ask for George, tell him you want conservative, hardwearing, summer weight goods and he'll steer you right.
     
  12. CharlesAlexander

    CharlesAlexander Senior member

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    +1 for Beckenstein.

    They are a little pricey but that have a great selection. They also have a great selection of tie silk.

    Ive never been to tip top I have to check it out
     
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    what I do is take a swatch, bunch it up in my hand(I basically make a fist) and see how it recovers. if you ever ride the train, or sit at a desk, or fly, you need something that will not wrinkle.
     
  14. chikkymonkey

    chikkymonkey Member

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    hellpp heading to tiptop but George isn't there today.. everyone seemed to have mentioned his name, can I be helped by anyone there??? THNX
     

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