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Has Borrelli lowered his quality this season?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpallaCamiccia, May 14, 2010.

  1. marblehouse

    marblehouse Senior member

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    never odd or even
    

    I have to agree. Diffusion lines - i.e. luxury vintage - seem to me that they are slowly take the route to Zegna.
     
  2. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Hmm.. I bought three at retail a little less than a year ago, the button holes were handsewn still and the buttons were thick MOP buttons.
     
  3. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    All of my Borrelli shirts (and I've had about twenty, over the past six or seven years) have had fused collars.
    The fusing is light, and so the collars are still very flexible and have a great "roll" to them, but they are still fused. Still, I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing as long as the fusing is done well, and Borelli does do good fused collars. For what it's worth, a number of other high-end Italian shirtmakers use lightly-fused collars, too.


    This is odd as I have never seen Borrelli shirts with plastic buttons, even their more recent stock. Whilst the buttons have become thinner - they are no longer the "tablet thick" buttons of old - they are still made from mother-of-pearl (MoP). Likewise, the collars and shoulders were attached by hand, although the buttonholes were likely machine-stitched.

    Still, I suppose that it is possible that Borrelli makes shirts to different specifications for different stores, and thus it is possible that the shirts that you saw were machine-stitched with plastic buttons.
     
  4. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Was surprised as well when I received them. Plastic buttons but claw button stitching.
     
  5. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    I've never seen any with plastic buttons either, mine are all MOP. I would be interested in seeing pics if that's not too much trouble.
     
  6. erpet

    erpet Senior member

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    1. What's significant for internet shopping is that what you buy is not likely to be from current season, i.e. if you bought the shirts 2011, they are probably from 2010 or earlier. If I understand this thread correctly, the dip in quality is 2009-10. The shirt s I bought 2011 are from a shop in Stockholm that has a sale every January before they refill the stock with current products, that's why I am pretty sure my shirts are from 2011.

    2. How sure are you about the plastic buttons? Have you "kissed them"? I learned the other day from Kiton salesman that the best way to determine if the buttons are MoP is to feel them with your lips - if they are cold, they are MoP. It checked out for the Kiton I bought and an old Borrelli I have with me. I'm travelling right now so I don't have access to my 2011 LBs, but after next weekend there will be some serious button kissing back home. Will report, if someone has any interest in the result from that.....

    /E
     
  7. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    INTERESTING — I didn't know about the kissing method. I can generally tell from my eyes, I think it would be awkward to place a shirt I didn't buy yet on my lips :laugh:

    Now I'm off to test this with all my dress shirts!
     
  8. erpet

    erpet Senior member

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    Enjoy! You have to get in to the closet to become a button kisser.
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  11. erpet

    erpet Senior member

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    O.K.

    I have now checked my 2011 LBs and deem the buttons to be MoP, the collars and arms hand stiched to the "torso" and many other seams seem hand made as well.

    The fabrics are O.K. although not as smooth as the one of my older LB that is more comfortable to wear than to be naked. However I do understand there are other lines from LB with more exclusive fabrics.

    In my humble opinion the quality drop was exaggerated and/or recovered. The main difference now seems to be the shape of the buttons.

    Pro: easier to button

    Con: not as many will see how expensive your shirt is......

    /E
     
  12. connor09

    connor09 Senior member

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    I agree though that the quality of the fabric has definitely declined over the years, my older LB still looks good.
     
  13. wishfulthinking

    wishfulthinking Member

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    Can anyone tell what's the fabric used in Borrelli shirts nowadays?
     
  14. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I would guess mainly Testa, Canclini & Monti quality as it was also often in the past. Their Royal line was more thomas Mason/ DJ Anderson quality rather then Carlo Riva. I am not even sure Kito uses Riva at all, or at least the 180/2 Riva I buy for my bespoke shirt. I have touched many Kiton's at Harrods and have the one shirt and all are probably 140/2 cotton at the very best.
     
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