Harrisons 150s wool, Grand Cru range

[Film Noir Buff]

About a year ago, having just picked up my first suit in this cloth from my tailor, I waited for the right day to wear it for the first time. That day proved to be an Indian summer one in NYC. Not cold but not hot, I walked around in comfort not worrying about the weather which might ordinarily cause me to work up a lather. At one point, I thought I had left my jacket at the office but I was wearing it. Part of the explanation is the skill with which my tailor makes a jacket but part of the reason was the lightness and smoothness of the cloth. Characteristics of Harrisons SUPER 150's Grand Cru Special Reserve. This is the 2nd edition following the success of the initial launch of the quality in 2006. For this edition, Harrisons added another 10 designs, including the two Pure Platinum ,and one 24carat gold stripe, which are a little more expensive. These patterns probably appeal more to Russian, Middle Eastern and people in entertainment. There are a few key ingredients that Harrisons have maintained in this bunch... Same construction, same finish, and of course still 2 fold warp & weft...this gives the cloth not only a luxurious handle, but as importantly, it gives you great every day performance and wear. Many other makers super lightweight 150's which are made with singles weft, and found in high end ready to wear garments also have a light, smooth feel but they wear out quickly and do not lend themselves to tailoring as well as Harrisons Grand Cru super 150s does. This where Harrisons use 2 fold warp and weft along with its tighter weaving and 11oz per yard weight really deliver a garment with long lasting smoothness and resiliency. Harrisons make no bones about the fact that Grand Cru, as with all their qualities in the Harrisons ranges, are primarily targeted for tailors; these are the customers who understand how fabric works, not only during the making of the garment, but also how well the cloth will perform for their customers once they are actually wearing it.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

About a year ago, having just picked up my first suit in this cloth from my tailor, I waited for the right day to wear it for the first time. That day proved to be an Indian summer one in NYC. Not cold but not hot, I walked around in comfort not worrying about the weather which might ordinarily cause me to work up a lather. At one point, I thought I had left my jacket at the office but I was wearing it. Part of the explanation is the skill with which my tailor makes a jacket but part of the reason was the lightness and smoothness of the cloth.


Characteristics of Harrisons SUPER 150's Grand Cru Special Reserve.

This is the 2nd edition following the success of the initial launch of the quality in 2006.
For this edition, Harrisons added another 10 designs, including the two Pure Platinum ,and one 24carat gold stripe, which are a little more expensive. These patterns probably appeal more to Russian, Middle Eastern and people in entertainment.

There are a few key ingredients that Harrisons have maintained in this bunch...
Same construction, same finish, and of course still 2 fold warp & weft...this gives the cloth not only a luxurious handle, but as importantly, it gives you great every day performance and wear.

Many other makers super lightweight 150's which are made with singles weft, and found in high end ready to wear garments also have a light, smooth feel but they wear out quickly and do not lend themselves to tailoring as well as Harrisons Grand Cru super 150s does. This where Harrisons use 2 fold warp and weft along with its tighter weaving and 11oz per yard weight really deliver a garment with long lasting smoothness and resiliency.

Harrisons make no bones about the fact that Grand Cru, as with all their qualities in the Harrisons ranges, are primarily targeted for tailors; these are the customers who understand how fabric works, not only during the making of the garment, but also how well the cloth will perform for their customers once they are actually wearing it.

 

[voxsartoria]

The chalk stripe is nice...the white rope stripe is more challenging to my eye.

How many things do you have made up in this?

- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

The chalk stripe is nice...the white rope stripe is more challenging to my eye. How many things do you have made up in this? - B
Which white rope stripe? I have 3 suits and getting more.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

At one point, I thought I had left my jacket at the office but I was wearing it. Part of the explanation is the skill with which my tailor makes a jacket but part of the reason was the lightness and smoothness of the cloth.

Anything similar happen with your trousers?


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Which white rope stripe?

I recall seeing a white on black in that book that I found interesting.

It would be unpopular here.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I have 3 suits and getting more.

Sweet.


- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by grimslade

I think he was including iTailors as well. Possibly e-tailers, but they are having a rough go of things.

 

[Manton]

If this cloth is to Premier Cru what Thunderbird is to white zin, it must be fantastic.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I recall seeing a white on black in that book that I found interesting. It would be unpopular here. Sweet. - B
On the first roll they made the cloth was actually black interwoven with navy which gave it an interesting midnight blue color (Shown here), unfortunately they corrected their mistake and made it jet black.

 

[dopey]

The only supers I have is the Millennium Cloth from Minnis. It was labeled in the books as 150s and came with 160s marked on the selvedge. 25% cashmere.

It is pretty luxe feeling, but I don't much go for that. Not really against it either, if I am getting a worsted, though sometimes I do prefer a harder feeling twill (like from the Botany books (Smith, I think)). But if I were getting a glen plaid worsted, I would consider a supers. I would never get one of these in a stripe, though.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by dopey

The only supers I have is the Millennium Cloth from Minnis. It was labeled in the books as 150s and came with 160s marked on the selvedge. 25% cashmere. It is pretty luxe feeling, but I don't much go for that. Not really against it either, if I am getting a worsted, though sometimes I do prefer a harder feeling twill (like from the Botany books (Smith, I think)). But if I were getting a glen plaid worsted, I would consider a supers. I would never get one of these in a stripe, though.
I have swatches of that Minnis material but I never bit. How has that held up and worked for you? They have a couple of reserved glen plaids and windowpanes. As you may know, I am a striped suit wearer. I recently picked up the navy version of the black/midnight blue stripe pictured above in a single breasted, one button, peak lapel. Maybe that sort of bold rope stripe which is modeled after a swatch I had of the boldest rope Ive ever seen would be too much for this place which, as Vox hinted at, tends towards more conformity than it would admit.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I have swatches of that Minnis material but I never bit. How has that held up and worked for you? . . .
Fine, but I treat it as a "have something nice in the evening" suit more than an all the time suit so I can't prove that it is durable. I don't recall what patterns are in the book, but mine is a dark navy herringbone (not micro). That formal look, not the grade, is the reason I don't use it as a daily-wear. It doesn't stay as crisp as other stuff, but that is more likely from the cashmere content than the supers aspect and was something Raphael warned me about in advance. If I have the time, I like to re-press the trousers before wearing them. It does have a luxe look, so if you like that, don't mind the cashmere and they have a pattern you like, I am sure you will be happy with it. [/quote]

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by dopey

Fine, but I treat it as a "have something nice in the evening" suit more than an all the time suit so I can't prove that it is durable. I don't recall what patterns are in the book, but mine is a dark navy herringbone (not micro). That formal look, not the grade, is the reason I don't use it as a daily-wear. It doesn't stay as crisp as other stuff, but that is more likely from the cashmere content than the supers aspect and was something Raphael warned me about in advance. If I have the time, I like to re-press the trousers before wearing them. It does have a luxe look, so if you like that, don't mind the cashmere and they have a pattern you like, I am sure you will be happy with it.
Yeah well that's the cashmere blend. if it were 100% worsted cashmere it might actually be stronger, sometimes the blend produces a beautiful fabric that doesnt quite hold the crease as well. Still enjoyable though. Here were my observations on the Harrisons super 150s: Film Noir Buff's Personal observations. Construction is High grade yarn in all 150s quality, not flimsy, has body at 11 oz. but feels light as a feather on the body. Grand Cru doesn't wrinkle much and the few that appear shake out over night on a hanger. The cloth shows no signs of bagging or pulling. Fabric feels cool and smooth against the skin which means that this fabric, in spite of its 11oz weight, rarely makes the wearer hot or uncomfortable. And, if you lift weights, the softness of the cloth will yield to your Monday morning triceps expansion. The cloth also takes the dye well for a rich, even color/shade. There are still not enough stripes in the collection. However along with several narrow pinstripes in several colors on grey, navy and black backgrounds there are a navy and a charcoal with a medium resolution chalk stripe (charcoal version pictured with skull+crossbones lining) and a very distinct white rope stripe on a navy, black or dark grey background (black version shown with double breasted jacket). This cloth has a very impressive look for business or for casual suits worn for dressier events. It is an excellent value and costs no more than any other woolen merchants' super 150s cloth.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Tailor's comments on Harrisons Super 150s Grand Cru range: My tailor, Nino Corvato rarely raves about a cloth. This is partly because he works with so many nice cloths. However he continually sings the praises of this Harrisons super 150s cloth as one of the best he has ever worked with. He claims that it is a dream to work with. In his opinion the overall look of the cloth from a construction and finish perspective is that it is excellent, professional and has a current look.