Hard to fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Hard to fit, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    I'm 5'9ish (on the taller end of the ish), 220llbs muscular not fat. Neck 17.5. Arms 32. Waist

    IMPOSSIBLE to find anything that properly fits off the rack. English clothiers?! Forget it. You'd think muscularly built guys are not grown in England.

    Anyway, anyone have any thoughts. I've simply accepted I need custom shirts at least in terms of dress shirts. But for business casual and sports shirts, getting custom made becomes more difficult.

    Help.
     


  2. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    Sorry: Waist 34/35 (American).
     


  3. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    You forgot a major detail, jacket size.
     


  4. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    I suppose this is technically cheating, but you could quite easily buy any OTR shirts that you like the fit of in the bicep and chest area (but the sleeves are too long) and have the sleeves shortened. Shorter arms are relatively little trouble as sleeves are easily shortened, is the long sleeve lengths that cause trouble. You can also have the shirt itself shortened if you deem it necessary. This should be cheaper than full MTM.

    Also, casual or sport shirts are just as easy as any other dress shirt. Any tailor that provides a MTM shirt service will make them for you.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012


  5. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    44 reg on the jacket size.
     


  6. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    I've tried the getting OTR shirts tailored to fit but the results are always disappointing. While the sleeves can be shortened, the "elbow" of the shirt always seems too low. The result is that the shirt "fits" only when I am standing with my arms straight down. Movement in any other position makes the shirt look and feel awkward.

    Thanks for the thought though. In terms of tailors, I live in New Orleans, which is kind of a backwater for clothing and tailors.
     


  7. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    Hi. I have also 44 for jacket and 38 for trousers. In fact 38 is the logical size for trousers if you have 44 jacket. See Brooks bbrothers size chart or Jos Bank size chart. If you have 42, then you'll go for 36 trousers and so on..
    Another thing: you are a 44 Long! with 5.9 height. This is important.
    Try also 46 long and 40 trouser: in fact you are 222 lbs. Trust me.
    It seems incredible that you wear 34/35 for trousers... But if so you can buy 44 long jacket and 36 trousers with pinces, and you'll be ok, with a correct belt.
    P.s. sorry for english, i'm italian... ;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012


  8. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    :lurk:

    :rotflmao:
     


  9. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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  10. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Why would someone want to have casual shirts custom-made unless absolutely necessary? Plus, options on fabrics and patterns probably would be limited.

    Could you show a picture of an altered casual shirt being worn? (Face doesn't need to be shown.) Maybe the upper arm/lower arm ratio is unusual? Is the same issue present in sweaters and other long-sleeve knits? Was sleeve fit a problem before bulking up? Maybe the sleeves need to be shortened from the shoulders (which would cost more). Also, can short-sleeve shirts be altered successfully? Final question: there is in fact a need for suits and/or odd jackets?
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012


  11. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Answered your own question. If you want to be abnormally big a muscular, everything is mtm, custom or tailored. I'm not a huge guy, but I do have a 11' drop and a slender frame, which means extensive tailoring or straight up custom every time.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012


  12. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    Thanks for the reply. 44R typically fit well at least regarding the length. And a 40 waist would simply drop off. I used to fit a 38 waist but those are too big as well. without a belt they also would drop off; with a belt there is so much bunched up material.

    But suits are not the issue as I expect to have them tailored.

    The problem for me really is dress shirts and sports shirts off the rack. I am trying to find a manufacturer who makes shirts that I can just buy and where without having to have the whole damn thing reconstructed. From the responses I've received (thanks to all) I tend to think I am stuck.
     


  13. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    Need for suits/jackets: yes. But suits/jackets are not the problem as I expect to need tailoring for such items anyway.

    And I don't want to have casual shirts made custom. That is the point of the post. I'm trying to see if anyone is familiar with a manufacturer/label that off the rack makes things that fit me. In my neck of the woods, I am not so unusually large. I admit I am larger than the average guy on the street but by no means would anyone see me and stop and stare either.

    Sweater/knits: depends. So many items these days seem to be form fitting and for me, that means either (1) fit the body but super snug on the arms (and walk around looking like Tony-tough-guy) or (2) appropriate on the arms but sail'ish around the body.

    Taking in from the shoulder instead of the cuff: great idea! I think that would solve one problem. Thanks. I'm definitely going to try that.

    Was just in London doing some shopping (first time there). Great stuff all around but I ended up buying very little because the shirts that fit my neck were huge in the body and many inches too long in the arm. Again, I recognize the need to have dress shirts custom made--the problem is casual/sports shirts. As you point out, options would are very limited.

    If this helps, a Brooks Bros. slim fit 17.5 neck/32 arm fits me decently. Still too much material in the body but it's about as good as I've found off the rack.
     


  14. swblueblood

    swblueblood Member

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    I send salesmen into shock. I stand 5'6", wear a 48 short coat and wear 37" pants with 28" pant length. I know the problems of looking for suits. If you look at the some of the better men's stores, I find that you should be able to find a suit with some minor tailoring. I wear 16.5" with 33 sleaves shirts. But the wearing of suit is not my major problem. Shoes are a major problem. Due to a birth defect, I wear a 9.5 rt and a 5 lft. I walk into shoe stores to dream. My shoes are what I would call a fit-to-measure style. One of these days, I will own a bespoke such as a John Lobb.:)
     


  15. Hard to fit

    Hard to fit Member

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    Damn. I don't feel so bad about my situation now. Actually, I still do. But feel better that I'm not entirely alone.
     


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