Hard to Fit Conductor Needs Help

[SartorialConductor]

My first three suits were from Men's Wearhouse...After reading some threads on here I hope I don't get strung up for saying it, but it's like drinking crappy light beer when you're in undergrad. Seems everyone has done it.

I have been frustrated by the fit every time, but my family knows I like to dress nice so they get me GC's to there and I keep thinking it will be different. I'm never happy off the rack and then the salesman promises it'll be great once tailored. After they're altered and still look like crap I've called George and told him "I don't like they way I look", but he's yet to honor that guarantee...Glad to get that off my chest.

I'm 27, a former public school teacher and now back for a master's degree. I'm a musician, a conductor actually(You know, those guys who wave they're arms in front of bands) It's creating a big dilemma because I need to look good, but I also need to have my arms raised a lot without my jacket hitting my ears.

I'm 5'6" 170 pounds. 34" waist. I think my jackets should be 38S MW thinks 40S...grumble. I'm not gross fat, but I'm not a model, I feel like I had a kind of big butt and hip area and I hate being short. I hope I can dress to make me feel a little better about my body, so far my love for suits has been thwarted by MW.

Any ideas on where to start? Remember I'm a grad student so I'm going to have to put this on my credit card...

 

[tgt465]

Can you pinpoint something in particular you don't like about the suits you have? It's hard to give any advice without some hint of which direction you want to go.

I do not have direct experience with them, but I am told the tailors who work for the retailers generally do substandard work. You may have better luck finding a tailor of your own, outside of wherever you buy your suits.

Can't say whether you should be a 38S or 40S without more information or pictures, but it may be that you need a 38S in some suits and 40S in others, depending on the cut and other details. You should focus on the shoulders for fit, as most other aspects can be altered more easily.

 

[Concordia]

Your ultimate solution to this problem will be to have clothes made for you, and to do it right isn't cheap.

To look for in the meantime--- high armholes. While American shoppers have been brainwashed into thinking that huge armholes = comfort, the reverse is true once you move around. And, as you know, conductors are among the worst offenders in that department.

A lot of English tailors get it right, from having had to learn to make military uniforms that fit while buttoned all the way up, hunting coats, and shooting jackets. If you look on the webpages/blogs of Steven Hitchcock http://www.thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/...ers-13-oz.html http://savilerow.blogs.com/photos/ph...arm-holes.html and Kilgour http://www.kilgour.eu/bespoke.html you'll get a notion of two different but effective solutions to the problem. here's another look: http://www.thepeerage.com/100682_001.jpg

Now, given that you're postponing your lucrative music career by taking a degree, you might not be able to swing Savile Row. So your best bets might be looking for one of the better Asia tailors (and giving him firm guidance as to what you want-- which will require some additional research on your part) or lucking out in a Junior League thrift shop where Grandpa's bespoke wardrobe will be sold for peanuts after he's gone. Another option might be finding one of the Italian brands marked way down. I don't have a lot of experience with those, but some of the houses like to push the armscye pretty far up.

 

[SartorialConductor]

Thanks. After much reading through the forums I think the large armholes are the biggest culprit. I just feel like they look like I'm wearing a sack, no shape or flair. I'll try to get some pictures up and keep poking around on here.

You're right about being short on cash. I'm loving the time back in school, but I'll be glad to be making money again.

When I put on a jacket what's the best way to gauge if the shoulders fit? Maybe I'll try the consignment thing...I just don't want to buy something I can't get altered. I guess I need to find a decent tailor too!

 

[Sator]

Yes, it's true that the cheaper the RTW coat, the more restrictive it tends to be on movement.

If you go down the route of getting something made by a Chinese tailor then spend some discussing your issues before you part with your money. You need a sympathetic tailor who knows how to cut for specific activities such as conducting, shooting, or horse riding. Each of these presents their own set of cutting issues.

It's probably even reasonable to have the sleeves pitched for a much more forward position. There is also the option of cutting something like a pivot sleeve. More on the subject:

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum...?showtopic=538

 

[pvrhye]

Use those GC's on accessories if they keep coming your way.

If you just want general info, read the link in my sig. Since you already have some suits. Throw up some pics with info about the size etc.. and people may be able to help you.

 

[SartorialConductor]

<a href="http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/n504/kfreesen/?action=view&current=d3d29662.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n504/kfreesen/d3d29662.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

Here's what I'm starting with. Just trying to get it to post a pic

 

[SartorialConductor]

Still trying

 

[musicguy]

What kind of music do you conduct? If classical, you'll probably want a good set of tails instead of a suit. A black suit would also serve you well. I know this is against SF doctrine, but black suits for classical music are a requirement, especially for baroque music. If you're looking for a suit, have you tried Banana Republic monogram separates? It might be a bit over your price range (~650), but if you open a credit card you get something like 30% off. This fit me especially well but the pants are cut slightly fuller than I like. That might work out for you.

 

[SartorialConductor]

I'm wind ensemble. I love my tux. I'm looking for a less formal option for more everyday teaching. I just really want something that fits perfectly in the arms none of that unsightly tugging.

 

[CommenceFailure]

I don't know where you live, or how close you are to a large city, but I feel like you should spend a day or two in a big city and try on every single brand name you can find. Once you find a brand (and size) that works for you, you can keep an eye out for suits/odd jackets at the buying and selling area on this forum, or on ebay.