Handmade Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by piergiacomi, Jan 27, 2011.

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  1. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    New shell cordovan new shoes.
    [​IMG]
    In this weekend we update our site with goodyear construction.
    You knows this shell cordovan company? Is it good?


    Horween e l'ottima (ma non c'e delle altre [​IMG]).
     


  2. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    ..
     


  3. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Simple video with three different type construction for quality handmade shoes.
    Goodyear simple and elegant. (the welt is needlework symmetrically )

    Me think it not goodyear,
    it hand welted.
    Goodyear use machine invented by Charles Goodyear
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welt_(shoe)

    lt look like a version of norvegese.
    No fastener on bottom of insole.
    You do Awl technique similar to bentivegna (push from inside out).

    lnteresting version of Bentivegna.
    There seem various way to do it.

    See diagram below to compare how various makers do Bentivegna, norwegian and norvegese.
    You do it differently.
    Even your version of hand welted is different from most makers.
    lnteresting.
    [​IMG]
     


  4. piergiacomi

    piergiacomi Senior member

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    Me think it not goodyear, it hand welted. Goodyear use machine invented by Charles Goodyear http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welt_(shoe) lt look like a version of norvegese. No fastener on bottom of insole. You do Awl technique similar to bentivegna (push from inside out). lnteresting version of Bentivegna. There seem various way to do it. See diagram below to compare how various makers do Bentivegna, norwegian and norvegese. You do it differently. Even your version of hand welted is different from most makers. lnteresting.
    I do not think there is a specification certificate, we use Norwegian (or Norwegian) construction in which the upper is reopened on the outside and does not have a welt. For Bentivegna (some call it differently) we call costrucione with folded welt outside. I attach a photo of one of our prototype Norwegian cut in half with the visible parts. [​IMG] There is four leather sole, and three seams.
     


  5. piergiacomi

    piergiacomi Senior member

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  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Welcome to the forvm and we look forward to more of your posts.
     


  7. Storm33

    Storm33 Senior member

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    Edit: Glad that Sartorialini was removed...
     


  8. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    And then we have the "usual crowd" in SF extolling the heavenly virtues of Goodyear welted construction as if there was no other god on earth.

    Note that I actually think the Italian shoes in this thread are probably BS because of how they look and how their representative speaks English (i.e it looks like someone trying to pass as an Italian with bad English, not a real Italian with bad English)

    But how many constructions does the UK have, well let's see: Goodyear, glue job

    How many constructions does Italy have? Who knows...

    It shows what i said in a previous post- english shoes are like anglo-saxon food/coffee chains- there is no soul to it. All done in Northampton using one construction -sure sometimes well done sometimes not, materials quality varies widely, etc etc- but in the end you have the product of a society whose traditions (small to begin with) were obliterated by the massification of the industrial revolution, in which shoemaking became epitomised by a machine made by this Goodyear fellow

    In italy local quirks and individuality have survived. And yes there is all kinds of junk made in italy in industrial quantities but there is so much good stuff in so many variants.

    Note, I am not advising anyone to buy the massified Italian crap that gets shipped to the US stores, but try to look around the web- hell travel to italy for holidays. And of course be careful, when you go to starbucks you know what u going to get, when you get adventurous things can go very well but also very badly- but the message is , try new stuff and don't get carried away with SF EG, CJ, XY, GG whatever group think-


    What a load of rubbish! There is good and bad stuff made in England, same as Italy, same as everywhere else. So what else is new? Top notch English shoes are exactly that, as are top notch Italian. Again, what else is new?
     


  9. entrero

    entrero Senior member

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    But how many constructions does the UK have, well let’s see: Goodyear, glue job How many constructions does Italy have? Who knows… All done in Northampton using one construction. ...the massification of the industrial revolution, in which shoemaking became epitomised by a machine made by this Goodyear fellow In italy local quirks and individuality have survived. And yes there is all kinds of junk made in italy in industrial quantities but there is so much good stuff in so many variants.
    anglo-bashing...please try harder next time. What you're actually ranting about is that bespoke shoes are better than mass produced ones(obviously). I still have no idea what Italy has to do with anything, I'd rather choose Marcel Hun over "Mario the quirky shoemaker". Also bespoke shoes are pricey. And where would you resole? Even GY welted shoes does take an extra effort to find a competent cobbler.
     


  10. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Wow,
    that insole really thick.

    What you use for filler (white stuff)?
     


  11. piergiacomi

    piergiacomi Senior member

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    Wow, that insole really thick. What you use for filler (white stuff)?
    For white stuff in this shoes (second trance of prototypes), we used a natural felt, but we using also cork. In fact, that picture does not show the lining as in design, but sewn, now do not do anymore. We produce shoes for other brands also British, and we know that what is in store is often not worth the price paid.
     


  12. piergiacomi

    piergiacomi Senior member

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    Another small "Chicca", unfortunately the pictures this is done with the phone ...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Goodyear construction di Pierigiacomi, su Flickr

    To welt in this building was added a profile.
     


  13. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I really love on all of these how there are elements which deviate from what seem like the standard shoe templates, and yet their formality remains unquestionable. The textures on the leather are also awesome. Please tell your father that his work looks wonderful.
     


  14. piergiacomi

    piergiacomi Senior member

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    I really love on all of these how there are elements which deviate from what seem like the standard shoe templates, and yet their formality remains unquestionable. The textures on the leather are also awesome. Please tell your father that his work looks wonderful.

    Thanks, unfortunately the photos do not see well (I am a bad photographer), and we can not permit stores outside.
     


  15. Storm33

    Storm33 Senior member

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    Another small "Chicca", unfortunately the pictures this is done with the phone ...
    [​IMG]


    Oh, this shoe absolutely sings to me. Beautiful work.

    Please make a pair for me!
     


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