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Handmade j&m pics

shoefan

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After reading a thread on Ask Andy ("Having Luncheon with the Incomparable Mr. Pollock"), I picked up a pair of Handmade J&M's. Â These shoes used to be $1000/pair, perhaps equivalent to $1500 or more today. Â These were shoes that were given to Presidents and foreign dignitaries and were used as a marketing tool by J&M. Â Unfortunately, J&M has closed virtually all of their US shoemaking facilities, and so the Hand Made line has been ended. Here are some pics and comments about these fine shoes. IMO, these wingtips remind me most closely of an old pair of Brooks Brothers English Peals from the 70's (made by E Green, I presume.) They have a very nice overall line, with a close cut welt ("just showing" as it is known in the bespoke world) and a narrow, slightly bevelled waist. The brogueing is done with a relatively small holes, and there is no "pinking" on the seams. All of this creates a light appearance to the shoe. The sole features a hidden channel and cross-hatched incisions to provide traction when the shoe is new. The sole is a natural color, rather than stained a la Green et al. The upper leather is a very nice calfskin, and it features perhaps just a hint of antiquing. I think two things stand out about this shoe. First, the stitching of the uppers is as fine as I've seen, in terms of stitch length/stitches per inch; some of the stitching is up to 18 spi, and the balance is at 14 spi. Whoever made this upper used a very small needle and fine thread. In comparing the upper to those by Lobb (RTW), Green, C&J, Vass (bespoke), JM Weston, the stitching is far more delicate; these companies seem to use 12 spi as their upper limit; some bespoke uppers I have from London max out at 14 spi. Second, the entire perimeter of the insole shows small tack holes, which seems to indicate to me that the shoe was in fact hand-lasted. Further, it would appear to me that the outsole may well have been hand-stitched to the welt, a very rare feature indeed in a RTW shoe. In summation, a beautiful, exptremely well-made shoe. Were they worth $1000? I don't know, though I think they certainly are competitive with the E Greens, whose price is pushing toward that level with less handwork. Are they worth $250. You bet your a**. And, you get a bit of an great American shoemaking heritage with them.
 

JFK

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Very nice. You mentioned that the J&M Handmade line has been discontinued; where did you find these, if you don't mind my asking?
 

shoefan

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Check out the thread on AskAndy that I mentioned above.
 

JFK

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Check out the thread on AskAndy that I mentioned above.
Thanks, I will.
 

faustian bargain

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anyone have any pictures of the 'shovel' soled black wingtips? i've looked at the santoni's for comparison, but i'm having trouble visualizing them.

/andrew - whose size 13's are starting to twitch...


**edit for speling eror
 

JohnMS

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shoefan,

Thank you for the post regarding J&M handmades. I had heard about these shoes years ago and were always interested in them.

Per the Ask Andy post, I called Bennie's and spoke with Matthew (Louie is out until August 2). He was very accommodating and unfortunately could not find anything in my common size 8D.

Thanks for posting pictures. I would be very interested in additional pictures if others buy these shoes.

In speaking with J&M customer service, it would appear that Mr. Raymond Robinson continues to do the recrafting of the handmade shoes (for a $250 fee).
 

Renault78law

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Thanks for the pics. Over my frustrated attempt to get the EG's yesterday from Last Call, this post was perfect timing. I called an ordered an 11.5E. The only had the black wingtips with the shovel sole, I'm curious as to how they will turn out.
I'll find out soon enough, but can you please comment on sizing, including width?
 

shoefan

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Mine are a 9D; they seem to run true to American sizing, similar to AE or Alden.

Hope you can post pics of the "shovel sole."
 

Renault78law

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regardless of whether I keep them, I certainly will post some pics as soon as I get them.
 

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