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Handmade goiser shoe technology on video

MarcellHUN

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I made this video about goiser stitch. Not really a "stylish" shoe, but a very strong, durable construction. I hope you will enjoy.

 

Harry Lean

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EXCELLENT!!! very very informative. One of the best videos l have ever seen.
 

andyw

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Outstanding information, thanks.

Here's a pair of bespoke boots from Peter Limmer & Sons, Intervale, NH. circa 1978 ........not stylish either but resoled twice and many trail miles later, still going strong.
 

Harry Lean

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l could watch that video 100 times. l'm going to hand stitch my own shoes one day. l will hand carve a feather and everything.
 

Harry Lean

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Does stitching the welt in the right place require high skill Marcell? From your video it looks very easy to mess this step up (2:59 onwards on video). lf you stitch it too high or too low, won't this result in major problems? Must take some practise to do right.



H.
 

kngrimm

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Holy wow... may I ask how many hours it takes to complete one of these shoes?

Thanks,
 

Roger

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Wonderful, Marcell. Thanks for putting this up for us. I had a couple of questions that occurred to me as I was watching the addition of the outsole. After putting in a filling to the skivved-out sole and heel areas, the maker then stitches on (to the welt) what I thought was going to be the outsole. However, after that stage (at about 6:45 of the video), he applies glue and attaches another sole--obviously the actual outsole. Two questions: Is the first sole what we might term a midsole? Or just the first of a double-sole process? Second, it wasn't clear how the second (outsole) was attached. Is it just glued (that's all we see), or is it stitched as well?
 

MarcellHUN

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Originally Posted by Harry Lean
Does stitching the welt in the right place require high skill Marcell? From your video it looks very easy to mess this step up (2:59 onwards on video). lf you stitch it too high or too low, won't this result in major problems? Must take some practise to do right.



H.


If you put the stitch to an other line, it can look ugly on the shoe. Good news: it is not a hard job to find the right place. Practise is needed anyway.. But you can get it.
 

MarcellHUN

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Originally Posted by kngrimm
Holy wow... may I ask how many hours it takes to complete one of these shoes?

Thanks,


In the master exam, we have two complete days to finish only one. On my shoemaking course I will also show the complete procedure in this time. I would say in case of goiser, 4-5 workdays are needed, without the upper-making.
 

MarcellHUN

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Originally Posted by Roger
Wonderful, Marcell. Thanks for putting this up for us. I had a couple of questions that occurred to me as I was watching the addition of the outsole. After putting in a filling to the skivved-out sole and heel areas, the maker then stitches on (to the welt) what I thought was going to be the outsole. However, after that stage (at about 6:45 of the video), he applies glue and attaches another sole--obviously the actual outsole. Two questions: Is the first sole what we might term a midsole? Or just the first of a double-sole process? Second, it wasn't clear how the second (outsole) was attached. Is it just glued (that's all we see), or is it stitched as well?

Huh.. so many question in an old topic..


Yes it is a double sole construction. Normally the classic method is, when you stitch it, with a single stitching line, so the welt, middlesole, and outsole will make 3 lines of stitching. What I did on the video is the spinning stitch - only two lines of stitch, but with a spinning, and the outsole attached with glue. Good and strong consrtuction and easy to repair (even for a cobbler, who is not familiar with the handmade stitches), very stong looking and decorative.
 

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