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hand stitched armhole.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MilanoStyle, Dec 16, 2004.

  1. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    How do you know if armholes of a suit are stitched by hands? I figure that if the spacing of the stitch of the armholes in side of jacket are irregular, then I take that as hand-stitched armhole. Am I wrong here?
     


  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I've been wondering this myself. I think handstitched armholes move better, but handstitched armholes are also usually cut higher, which could account for some of the benefits.

    I too would like to know how to recognize handstitched armholes. Where do you look for the stitching? Also, how can you tell whether a button is plastic or horn?
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Two tests: visibility, regularity.

    On a machine sewn shoulder, you generally cannot readily see the stitches.  Take the coat and look at the interior of the armhole.  If the diameter looks "clean", it is likely machine sewn, in a manner similar to (say) a trouser side seam.  All you see is a "valley" where the two pieces of cloth meet, and the seam is hidden underneath.  If you tug at the seam, you will see stitches, however, and they will look very tight, very close together (almost no gap) and very regular.

    On a hand-stitched shoulder, you will see a ring of small stitches, with thread clearly visible, perhaps 1/16" apart.  You will also see little dimples in the lining, similiar to the way a pick stitch looks on a lapel facing. If you look carefully, you will see that the spacing and the size of each stitch are not uniformly perfect.
     


  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Yes, I agree with Manton.

    Hugo Boss suits that I have regularly spaced stitching. They are hidden but too perfect if I flip the lining out.

    Canali, Ermengildo Zegna, and Brioni's have hand stitched armholes.

    Armani Collezioni suit that I have is the funny one. Top half of armhole is machine stitched and bottom part of armhole is hand stitched.

    Anyone can comment on this?
     


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