Half/quarter lined autumn/winter jackets?

[Nicola]

I've been in two different outlet shops lately. One had a half lined winter jacket. One had a rack of quarter lined. The cloth weight and colour were both clearly not warm weather jackets.

Is there a reason for these?

 

[Holdfast]

Personal choice really. Some would say they let you layer more without getting sweaty or bulky, but I think this is a fairly marginal thing.

 

[JayJay]

I have a flannel suit with a half-lined jacket as well as two cashmere odd jackets that are unlined. I really didn't think much about the lining when I bought them, but they are as warm as my other fully lined winter jackets.

 

[Nicola]

Thanks.

I've gotten the feeling layering is unheard of around here. Two different shop girls have tried telling me I shouldn't try on a jacket with a very light sweater on.

 

[Dewey]

Sounds like you are looking at cheap jackets.

 

[Nicola]

Actually all the cheap jackets are fully lined.

These were outlet discounted but still more then the cheaper jackets.

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by Dewey

Sounds like you are looking at cheap jackets.

^

I don't think this is a fair assumption to make. I know of the several higher-end Italian manufacturers, such as Caruso, Sartoria Castagnia, etc. that frequently make half-lined or quarter-lined jackets. I own an Adriano & Sons odd jacket (by Caruso), for example, that is very finely made, with full canvas construction, etc. that is only half-lined.

 

[Dewey]

I am misunderstood. Winter color + summer weight + half-lined sounds like it might be cheap, like something I would find in the Dillard's by Murano, a brand that makes almost nothing in fabrics heavier than the lightest possible (and cheapest) weights. Winter color + winter weight jackets are often half- or quarter-lined. I suppose there's no reason why you could not make a dark winter-pattern jacket in lighter weight material. Not as many people spend time out-of-doors in the winter. Garages, cars, offices, are all well heated these days. This was not always the case, and if you travel much, you can find places where no one turns the heat up higher than 60 in the middle of winter. The trend toward better and more comprehensive heating means we don't need the heaviest weights the way our grandfathers did. Nicola is maybe getting to the observation that most of the cheap jacket makers will do a full lining so they do not need to show the sloppiness of the interior finishing. And a quarter- or half-lining can be a showcase for the kind of unseen work that we associate with high quality.

 

[Nicola]

No I must not have written it well. The colour and cloth are winter. Plus in Italy heating is much less common then North America. Of course around here winter is six weeks of bad swimming

 

[eHaberdasher]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

Personal choice really. Some would say they let you layer more without getting sweaty or bulky, but I think this is a fairly marginal thing.

Agreed.

In addition as another poster alluded - partially lined jackets definitely are not cheaper, but in fact more expensive to produce because the inside, which is now exposed, has to look as clean and finished as the outside. Thus, most manufacturers, especially cheaper ones, use full lining to cover up the whole mess - and you'd never know it.

 

[TheFoo]

I've been told that partial lining is overused, but that comes from someone selling my fully-lined jackets. But the thinking makes sense: the rougher, more textured cloths more typical of cold-weather jackets is more likely to snag on your body without a full lining. Anyway, I used to demand partial linings on my MTM jackets, but now I detect no disadvantage when wearing my fully lined jackets.