Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by the shah, Jun 25, 2014.
HAIDER ACKERMANN SS2015
such louche such lux
Haider's gon convert shah to the skinny pants just you watch
Wide trousers looks are the only decent ones
i think big dropped crotch pants without a taper would be ideal with this (more yohji-style drop crotch than rick or damir or whatever)
Yeah, I was surprised to see all the close-fitting trousers here. But hey, maybe that was his intent. Like, "I know you're all expecting these lavish jackets to be paired with voluminous trousers, but fuck you, Ima give these models leg rashes"
He's so good
Always picks great muses
Not into slim bottoms but I think it works here as some Imbalance .
Reminds me of dries but it doesn't pander to the fashion bois as much
Actually I take that back, I have no idea what the actual buys will look like.
Pirate-y. I like it. Skinny pants and all.
Caveat I am looking at on phone in an airport
Hrm how does dries pander to fashion bois? The interviews I've read about Dries doesn't really make him seem like the pandering type, but yeah.
He'll do a big chunk of every season in whatever's trendy, like for current seasons there will be a lot of skinny suits with a bit of ankle showing mixed in with the more experimental cuts. So like, the fabric will be really cool but it will basically be similar to Paul Smith in terms of fit, which I assume he does to cater to a specific audience. He also does plenty of items that aren't like that.
that is a big assumption. based on anything in particular or just a hunch?
I see. Well I feel like once you are of that size it's kind of requisite that you make things that will sell. I look at the disparities between what Rick Owens puts on the runway and what's produced and bought, but maybe you feel he's a panderer as well.
I've personally never really thought of Dries as an experimental cut kind of guy... feel like him as well as Schneider mostly makes accessible designs with personal tweaks in great fabrics/prints. But I'm fashionably boring... Ackermann is not appealing to me in the slightest except for the more traditionally cut tailored pieces in loud fabrics... but for me those are the most Dries-ish of his designs but I find the connection pretty tenuous unless any blazer/coat in a loudish print is "Dries-ish."
Also here Dries' stuff can be loud, but imo always has a sense of taste/sophistication in the approach which is perhaps tempered by his more traditional cuts.
The hardcore layering I find less appealing than the Soloist approach, but I don't think romantic-ish stuff speaks to me (Ann D etc) where I find Ackerman to be more about versus Soloist which has the rock & roll/heritage bent at times.
Yes, look at the marketing shots from stores like barneys, the corner, or what gets posted on Tumblr. They tend to display the patterned skinny suits and tight pants. It's not like I hold it against him, I own some of that. Maybe the dude just really likes tight suits but I don't think it's a stretch to say that a designer who owns an independent brand has some marketing in mind when he designs his collections.
Dries does a lot of odd cuts every season, I'll post some pics when not on mobile. Specifically, he does a lot of luxe silk patterned robe things, and also likes to use bright striped silk pants, patterned shirts, and blazers. He tends to play with proportions in his trousers a lot too.
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