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HAIDER ACKERMANN SS2015

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by the shah, Jun 25, 2014.

  1. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    HAIDER ACKERMANN SS2015


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    7 people like this.
  2. wogbog

    wogbog Senior member

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    such louche such lux
     
  3. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    Haider's gon convert shah to the skinny pants just you watch
     
  4. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Wide trousers looks are the only decent ones
     
    2 people like this.
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    i think big dropped crotch pants without a taper would be ideal with this (more yohji-style drop crotch than rick or damir or whatever)
     
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  6. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    Yeah, I was surprised to see all the close-fitting trousers here. But hey, maybe that was his intent. Like, "I know you're all expecting these lavish jackets to be paired with voluminous trousers, but fuck you, Ima give these models leg rashes"
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
  7. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    He's so good
    Always picks great muses
    Not into slim bottoms but I think it works here as some Imbalance .
     
  8. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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  9. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Reminds me of dries but it doesn't pander to the fashion bois as much

    Actually I take that back, I have no idea what the actual buys will look like.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pirate-y. I like it. Skinny pants and all.

    Caveat I am looking at on phone in an airport
     
  11. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    Hrm how does dries pander to fashion bois? The interviews I've read about Dries doesn't really make him seem like the pandering type, but yeah.
     
  12. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    He'll do a big chunk of every season in whatever's trendy, like for current seasons there will be a lot of skinny suits with a bit of ankle showing mixed in with the more experimental cuts. So like, the fabric will be really cool but it will basically be similar to Paul Smith in terms of fit, which I assume he does to cater to a specific audience. He also does plenty of items that aren't like that.
     
  13. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    that is a big assumption. based on anything in particular or just a hunch?
     
  14. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    I see. Well I feel like once you are of that size it's kind of requisite that you make things that will sell. I look at the disparities between what Rick Owens puts on the runway and what's produced and bought, but maybe you feel he's a panderer as well.

    I've personally never really thought of Dries as an experimental cut kind of guy... feel like him as well as Schneider mostly makes accessible designs with personal tweaks in great fabrics/prints. But I'm fashionably boring... Ackermann is not appealing to me in the slightest except for the more traditionally cut tailored pieces in loud fabrics... but for me those are the most Dries-ish of his designs but I find the connection pretty tenuous unless any blazer/coat in a loudish print is "Dries-ish."

    Also here Dries' stuff can be loud, but imo always has a sense of taste/sophistication in the approach which is perhaps tempered by his more traditional cuts.

    The hardcore layering I find less appealing than the Soloist approach, but I don't think romantic-ish stuff speaks to me (Ann D etc) where I find Ackerman to be more about versus Soloist which has the rock & roll/heritage bent at times.
     
  15. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Yes, look at the marketing shots from stores like barneys, the corner, or what gets posted on Tumblr. They tend to display the patterned skinny suits and tight pants. It's not like I hold it against him, I own some of that. Maybe the dude just really likes tight suits but I don't think it's a stretch to say that a designer who owns an independent brand has some marketing in mind when he designs his collections.


    Dries does a lot of odd cuts every season, I'll post some pics when not on mobile. Specifically, he does a lot of luxe silk patterned robe things, and also likes to use bright striped silk pants, patterned shirts, and blazers. He tends to play with proportions in his trousers a lot too.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
  16. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Some examples of stuff that I think is similar:

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    You tend to get stuff with those patterns in a trendy tight cut in stores, though, but like I said I have no idea if Haider is doing the same thing which is why i put a strikethrough in the post, and it's also probably more to do with what US webstores are buying. Barney's did get one of each size of the silk paisley robe [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
  17. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

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    I see what you're getting at but to me Dries is refined and tasteful, even in the sort of far afield kimono-y no shirt high shine womenswear-y fabric looks above...on the other hand Hackerman is pretty unabashedly gaudy and almost kitschy.

    I think it is very very hard, probably impossible, to be a designer and not produce clothes for market with a market ready mentality. These companies are businesses at the end of the day, most of them with very high overhead and relatively meager profit margins and limited cashflow.

    personally I've never seen anything dries in a store with a trendy tight fit. I've played with things that were trim or fitted, but nothing ever tight. Trendy is a tricky word also. Camo is trendy for the season or three that it first re surges and then a while later there's a street level rush and some concomitant mass market exposure and then the inevitable decline and backlash...but is camo still trendy today in 2014? I dunno, I don't think so. Maybe in some circles. where's that trend cycle graph image?
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
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  18. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    He straddles the line well between producing mass market stuff that's appealing to me as well and some really interesting clothes, in my opinion. That said, a lot of his short coats and knits are really cropped.

    Fwiw I really like the aackerman collection
     
  19. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    the first point isn't really indicative of what dries is thinking. marketing shots from barneys, the corner, etc. are created by those outlets to sell stuff. they're not running anything by dries to make sure he's ok with it. the second point, that maybe he just likes tight suits, makes it clear that this is just an assumption. fact is we don't know. maybe he does like that stuff. he's done plenty of it over the years. still a far cry from "pandering." i'm sure he does design with marketing in mind, but he doesn't run any ads so the only marketing he does is the runway shows and his store windows. (he's also said in interviews that runway shows are his way of communicating his message to his audience.) now if you think the runway shows pander to fashion bois that's another matter.
     
    3 people like this.
  20. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    Hrm sounds like how the archive and places will ONLY buy 90% black 9% grey and 1% other colored pieces from brands like Attachment and M.A.+ where both brands actually produce some pretty vibrant/loud colors. Doesn't really mean that Attachment caters to super gothed out gothninjas...
     
    1 person likes this.

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