H. Freeman "Heritage" model

[Knox]

I read somewhere that H. Freeman has introduced a new model. The name of the model is "Heritage." Apparently it's a nod to (replica of?) the H. Freeman Naturalaire of old (think "Ivy" era Naturalaire), featuring a very soft, natural shoulder. Has anyone seen this model? I am guessing it would be of interest to some among us.

 

[The Louche]

I would be interested to know more as well. I'm a long time customer of English American, an H. Freeman corporate relation.

 

[reidrothchild]

Sorry to revive this thread, but this is the most relevant thread I could find prior to ordering the H. Freeman Heritage model at a trunk show back in June. So I wanted to update it for anyone else who might be looking for similar info. I would not recommend the Heritage model or H. Freeman based on this jacket. While soft, the shoulders are bit lumpy. There's some kind of rounded padding that looks like an inverted horseshoe when you look at the shoulder from the side. Certainly not clean. I was also under the impression that I was getting a full-canvas mtm garment at a really good price ($400). After two months, the jacket showed up, and the chest measurement was way off, so it had to be sent back. Over a month later, it comes back, and the chest is better, but the fit is still not very good. My tailor informed me that this is due to the fact that it is a softly-tailored jacket in a lightweight wool, so every wrinkle shows. I was also informed that the jacket is not even half-canvas; it is entirely fused. I confirmed this with the folks at H. Freeman. Apparently, when I told the H. Freeman rep I wanted the softest shoulder make they had, he took that to mean I wanted an unstructured, fused jacket, despite that fact that I informed him this would be for office wear in a business-attire environment. They seem to think the misunderstanding was my fault, which I find odd. If one wanted a fused garment, who would go to the trouble of ordering a custom jacket and waiting 3 months for it? I could have just gone to Mens Wearhouse or JAB and spent a third of what I did for the H. Freeman fused jacket. Other than the fusing, the quality and fit of the jacket are also pretty poor. There's no collar lining, and there are a few loose threads. My tailor, who hosted the trunk show and who is a true professional, has offered to make me a different coat at no charge (he no longer has an account with H. Freeman).
So to sum up, instead of getting a good deal on a custom, full-canvas jacket, I overpaid for a fused jacket that does not fit well. I'd have gotten a less expensive, better fitting garment with a higher quality construction had I simply ordered an 1818 Fitgerald model sport coat from the clearance section of Brooks Brothers' website. I also presumably wouldn't have had to wait 3 months for it.

 

[comrade]

Is the heritage model available retail, so that one might try it on
before ordering MTM?.

Over the years I've had a number of MTM fiascos with well-respected vendors.
I'm afraid it's par for the course. Perhaps, above your price point would be the
Samuelsohn Talbot and the Greenwich models, both of which are very natural shoulder styles.
To go even higher, check out SF- affiliate, Winston Tailors for great Ivy-inspired MTM (and bespoke)

As for soft tailoring, causing wrinkles, I don't buy it. I have a Belvest sport coat that is practically un-
structured (and fully canvassed) It doesn't wrinkle, but it runs well over $2k retail.

 

[reidrothchild]

Not sure if the Heritage is available to try on before going MTM. I believe my tailor was the only source for H. Freeman in the area, and I didn't see any RTW examples at the trunk show. I also don't believe the wrinkling is due to the soft tailoring of the jacket. I have a totally unstructured seersucker jacket by Crittendon, and it looks much cleaner than the H. Freeman jacket. I think you're right as far as MTM fiascos. I'm just chalking this one up to the risk inherent in ordering a MTM garment that you can't inspect or try on prior to purchase. Prior to this, I'd had two suits and a blazer done MTM by my local tailor, and they all turned out well. I think the mistake I made was with going with an unknown quantity in commissioning my 4th from an outside vendor. So I'll just view this as a learning experience and avoid H. Freeman in the future.

 

[comrade]



Not sure if the Heritage is available to try on before going MTM. I believe my tailor was the only source for H. Freeman in the area, and I didn't see any RTW examples at the trunk show. I also don't believe the wrinkling is due to the soft tailoring of the jacket. I have a totally unstructured seersucker jacket by Crittendon, and it looks much cleaner than the H. Freeman jacket. I think you're right as far as MTM fiascos. I'm just chalking this one up to the risk inherent in ordering a MTM garment that you can't inspect or try on prior to purchase. Prior to this, I'd had two suits and a blazer done MTM by my local tailor, and they all turned out well. I think the mistake I made was with going with an unknown quantity in commissioning my 4th from an outside vendor. So I'll just view this as a learning experience and avoid H. Freeman in the future.

So, who did your local tailor use for MTM?
Incidentally, I inherited from my late father a Freeman " Naturalaire"
jacket that is probably close to thirty years old. My guess is that it is
OTR, because my Dad also bought MTM. Anyway, it is beautifully
made in a heavyish glen plaid tweed that is not seen much today.
Also, a bit heavy for the SF BAy Area climate

 

[reidrothchild]

He's doing some Southwick MTM now. I'm not sure who else, if anyone, he uses.

 

[TonyThe Tailor]



He's doing some Southwick MTM now. I'm not sure who else, if anyone, he uses.

I replaced H. Freeman with Southwick. Had huge quality and service issues with H. Freeman. Mr. Rothchild's situation is one of many I had with them the past season and they became so arrogant, especially the shop foreman who is actually an accountant and not a tailor, that I had to let them go. I ask for full canvas or half canvas, garments came in fused, wrong models shipped, not following my measures, etc.

My MTM I cut the garments in my shop and ship them to an NY factory for assembly and my bespoke we make in our own shop.

I also do a nice Oxxford MTM business.