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Guys, how many of you can honestly tell if somebody is wearing a quality suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spidercan, Aug 15, 2013.

  1. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Come to think it over, probably the biggest giveaway is not the suit itself but the shoes. If a guy is wearing a pair of unshined casual bluchers with thick rubber soles (something I see all too often), I immediately surmise the suit is probably a cheapie.
     


  2. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    The suits were Canali and the jacket was Burberry... IIRC
     


  3. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Ha, you're probably right. A quality pair of shoes is a more foreign idea to people than a quality suit...
     


  4. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    It's interesting that the standard of connoisseurship in painting is to be able to recognize the artist in a work that one has not seen before. I would think that with enough experience and training, one might be able to tell the difference, not only between an expensive and cheap suit, but between a Huntsman and A&S, or a Roman and a Neapolitan style suit. For instance, a cran necker lapel and roped shoulders can give away a Parisian suit. Part of the benefit of looking at Styleforum and other sources is to develop an eye for the tailoring details that, like brushstroke and color, can identify an artist.
     


  5. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is the first place I look as well.
     


  7. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    You mean shoes like these:
    [​IMG]
    The picture above makes me sad (that such a thing should exist).
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013


  8. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Why do you think this is so funny?
     


  9. Joshua Paul

    Joshua Paul Member

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    hi gentlemen,

    I was reading the above, and I read something about cleaners who press your lapel flat.
    Now, I just bought a tailor made suit, but it was a cheap job and the lapel rolls don't seem to be done properly.

    Is there a way to fix this? What makes the lapel roll anyway, the inner canvas? And do the use heat to roll it?
    Hence if it isn't rolled properly, it is possible that the didn't craft the suit properly?

    Regards,
    Joshua
     


  10. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    I would be the first to say that my own eye is not well trained enough to recognize the maker of a suit on sight. But as you get more experience looking at clothes, you start to pick up on more details. For instance, it's rare to find a cran necker lapel on a non-French suit. If a suit is straight hanging with lapped seams, a hook center vent, no darts, and 3-roll-2 buttons, it's likely J. Press or a similar traditional American clothier. If painting seems too "high art" of an analogy, think of antique dealers. After enough years they can start to identify the maker or at least the general school of certain kinds of furniture. I'm sure there are a lot of people who can do the same thing with cars.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013


  11. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    Because it's over the top to say that with "training" you'd be able to make out the difference between specific tailors (I am pretty sure Crimson was being sarcastic in that post). Since VinnyMac has made it clear that he has nothing but disdain for this thread, I suppose he found it amusing (and, if taking sarcastically, in concordance with his point of view).
     


  12. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    If experienced people can do it with paintings, furniture, and cars, I don't see why suits would be any different. What would surprise me is if someone like Manton or Despos never had any idea of the period, style, or maker of any suits. In fact, Manton did a profile on suit silhouettes in 2007: http://www.styleforum.net/t/48875/manton-suit-thread#post_754224

     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013


  13. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    He wasn't being sarcastic and it's really not immpossible at all.
     


  14. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    I'll have to take your word for it as I don't know how you'd go about differentiating specific tailors. I have two suits from the same Savile Row tailor, but since I asked for very different details (including different shoulder and sleeve-head configurations), the two suits look almost nothing alike, other than both being vaguely English.

    I'm not being dismissive, I just genuinely don't know how you'd do it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013


  15. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    With paintings, the technique is right on the canvas (along with a signature [​IMG]). With furniture, I think most experts validate their assumptions about the maker by inspecting the construction. As a serious car enthusiast (who can describe pretty much any car on sight), even certain very good AC Cobra replicas, for example, require popping the hood or inspecting the door jam to confirm their real vintage (some, using the proper cast-iron 427, sound exactly like the real thing).
     


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