Gut end braces

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Smooth Jazz, Jan 25, 2005.

  1. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    This just in from Albert Thurston. Sounds much the same as the response Bic recieved. I bought the red and the royal blue at the very end of the Box Cloth Braces page on the Thurston site.

    Forward . . .
    The 'catgut'(no cats involved) was the part that used to connect the buttonholes at the front, and was originally made for the long line fishing industry - it was superseded by nylon monofilament in the 1970's - and we have been unable to get the relatively small quantities we use for some years.
    Having said that we have gone back to the way we used to make them - the gut was always covered with white gloving leather prior to the 1960's, and all we have done is substitute the gut inner part with a modern, and better, alternative. The button holes are still hand stitched. These are the ones you purchased, and in our view they are better than the 'catgut' ones as we have had no returns due to breakage ( which was a constant problem with the catgut ).


    The braces you have received are visually identical to ones in our 1870 catalogue, and have been worn by the great and the good ever since.

    Thanks for your order - enjoy them.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    This is very good news, as the white leather substitutes really don't look nearly as elegant.
     
  3. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    "Clip on buttons A clever answer to an old problem. As they can easily be moved from one pair of trousers to another these clip on buttons are indispensable to the keen brace wearer." "These buttons can be clipped to the trouser waistband, allowing the wearer to use button end braces without the necessity of sewing buttons on. Made from steel and available in an antique nickel finish." http://www.albertthurston.com/categoryfast2.cfm?catid=3 Would these allow me to wear braces with loops on the end? The only braces I have at the moment have clips on them (one for the back the back of the trousers, two for the front). TIa.
     
  4. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    I threw caution to the wind and ordered them. I had emailed the company but grew impatient waiting for a reply. (.) I'll report back with findings.

    Next stop, T.M.Lewin for some braces.
     
  5. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Yes, that is the problem those clip on buttons are designed to solve. However, having the six buttons (which often come with a pair of pants and/or with a pair of braces) sewn on should be a very simple and cheap alteration for a tailor to do. Or you could do it yourself, if you know where they should go. Hint: don't put them out too wide in front, or you will look heavy, and they won't stay on your shoulders as well.
     
  6. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    Thanks J. I've already spoken to my tailor about buttons. I was hesitating about having them done because I can have extremely sensitive skin. I was worried that the buttons would chafe, even through a shirt. A wallet in an inside pocket of a jacket hurt me once. (And not through spending its contents, either.)

    Buying these for testing purposes seemed easier than going to the tailor.
     
  7. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    I find this exchange interesting because several folks (Flusser in "Style and the Man") have lamented the fact that Thurston "doesn't make them like they used to."  I had always thought that this meant they don't make them with catgut ends any more, but it appears the situation is more complex.  If I understand Smooth Jazz's post correctly

    1. Thurston first made them with (white glove leather covered) catgut.

    2. In the 1960's Thurston made them with (uncovered) catgut.

    3. In the 1970's, Thurston then made them with (uncovered?)nylon monofilament.

    4. Today, Thurston makes them with (white glove leather covered) nylon monofilament, which is visually identical to the braces made in the 1890's.


    I have several of the Thurston braces with uncovered white catgut, and have never had a problem with breakage.  I wonder what causes the breakage - normal wear, drying of the gut.

    Bic
     
  8. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    Yesterday got got emails confirming my order and answering some questions.. The buttons arrived today.

    I'll test them over a few days, but I'm not sure when that will be.
     
  9. Bracemaker

    Bracemaker Active Member

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    If you want it from the horse's mouth (I run Albert Thurston ), so to speak, here is the actual historical timeline...
    1800's up to 1960's Gut was covered with gloving leather
    1960's to late 1990's Gut was uncovered.
    In the 1990's gut no longer available as it was used by the fishing industry as THEY (not us) started using nylon monofilament. We do not use nylon monofilament.
    In the noughties (2002 on ) we ran out of our stock of gut and have been using a better cord alternative which we cover with gloving leather, so now they look like the ones we made prior to 1960's. Hope all clear ..
     
  10. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    The clip-on buttons are doing their job well. I've been wearing them for three days now with three different suits. No problems so far. Based on current experience, I'd recommend them.
     
  11. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Welcome to the forum, bracemaker. I've heard many good things about your braces, don't own a pair yet (or any pair), but plan to at some point. I hope you join in some of our varied discussions, and not just your specialty.
     
  12. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    welcome to the forum as well. I am a brace fan, but have not yet been able to aquire any of yours. hoping to next time I am in the UK.
     
  13. Trilby

    Trilby Senior member

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    Welcome. I'm a big fan of your braces, and was getting very worried when I heard the reports about the gut-end braces no longer being available. Boxcloth braces with ordinary leather ends just don't do the job. I wear your boxcloth braces almost every day (all with the uncovered gut ends) and was pleased to see the new version with the glove leather covering.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I add my name to the chorus of welcomes. I have been wearing Thurstons for more than a dozen years, and don't wear or even buy any other brand. The best.
     
  15. Webmaker

    Webmaker Member

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    Hello all, I am Bracemaker's younger brother (and builder of the Thurston website for my sins). I have here in the office the 1870's catalgue of Thurston products, with wonderful victorian diagrams of their products at the time, rejoicing in fabulous names like 'The india rubber Albert". (india rubber braces with catgut ends) . I have been meaning to scan it in and add it to the site as something to browse through, if these forum members think it worthwhile, I'll finally get around to it. all the best to you all, Jerry
     

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