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Gurkha trousers and other high-waisted trousers on taller men.

KrantzWasabi

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Hi!

I have always loved the esthetic of gurkha pants and other more high waisted trousers that are trending right now, I have a pair of gurkha pants and I find them very comfortable. However, I'm worried that high-waisted trousers in general does not fit my body type. I am 6'6" (198cm) and have a thin frame. Everywhere I look online I see different opinions.

1. One side states that the proportions are thrown off and elongates the legs too much, since they are already long. They make the case to opt for low-rise och mid-rise pants. I can understand that they recommend the mid-rise trousers. However I think that low-rise pants as a tall man makes you dress like Michael Phelps (not a good thing in my book).
a8da9569f5ada21fa8895026e5d122f7.png

2. On the other hand I see people making the case that tall people should opt for high-waisted trousers, because that, in their opinion flatters this type of body. (picture down below is of me, it isn't a full body pic so I understand it could be hard to analyze from this picture alone. I think you can estimate your stands on the subject though)
Skärmavbild 2021-03-17 kl. 08.57.32.png

So I will probably continue wearing high-rise and mid-rise trousers, but I would like to hear all of your thoughts on the subject.

Thank you.
 

SteveMc

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I believe this is more a matter of how your height is proportioned, i.e., do you have a long torso and relatively short legs (like Mr. Phelps) or the other way around? For a long torso or equally proportioned frames, high-rise trousers divide the frame nicely in the middle and help create a flattering silhouette.
 

dieworkwear

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A couple of years ago, a friend of mine, who's about your height, asked me to help him find a suit since he was getting married. Up until that point, I had largely believed that most classic menswear proportions are the same, regardless of build. Meaning, short and tall guys should mostly follow the same rules. I think this is because I had only dressed myself up until that point. Trying to find clothes for another person made me more sensitive to how different builds have different fit issues.

High rise is a fuzzy concept. I think we would have to see you in a full fit pic with a tailored jacket. First, high rise trousers look funny on anyone -- regardless of build -- if they're not wearing a suit jacket or sport coat. Second, it gives us a better sense of how a specific cut looks on you. FWIW, when I was building the wardrobe for my friend (we later went beyond the wedding suit and got into professional and casual attire), I didn't find that the rise mattered that much. Meaning, the rise basically graded up accordingly for him, just as it would for me. My trousers come up to just about under my belly button, although this positioning marker can differ on some people. Again, easier if you can post a full fit pic with a tailored jacket.

Personally, I'm not a fan of CM-styled Gurkha trousers. I like the style when it's worn in an SWD way (to use forum terms). But I don't really like "internet-y" versions of classic men's style -- the loud Italian fabrics, strange pairings, Gurkha pants, green double monks, bracelets, etc. I think you would look better in a normal pair of trousers.
 

ValidusLA

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High rise and Ghurka are not intrinsically linked. Plenty of ways to get high rise trousers that are dont have Ghurka closures.

@SteveMc Above makes a good point regarding proportions. High rise elongates your legs. Depending on your build this can be good or bad.

I am 6'0. But my inseam is 30" (pretty short). I have a friend who is 6'0" with a 35" inseam (pretty long).

In my case, high rise makes me look more proportional. In his, he avoids it because it makes his torso look nonexistent.
 

KrantzWasabi

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A couple of years ago, a friend of mine, who's about your height, asked me to help him find a suit since he was getting married. Up until that point, I had largely believed that most classic menswear proportions are the same, regardless of build. Meaning, short and tall guys should mostly follow the same rules. I think this is because I had only dressed myself up until that point. Trying to find clothes for another person made me more sensitive to how different builds have different fit issues.

High rise is a fuzzy concept. I think we would have to see you in a full fit pic with a tailored jacket. First, high rise trousers look funny on anyone -- regardless of build -- if they're not wearing a suit jacket or sport coat. Second, it gives us a better sense of how a specific cut looks on you. FWIW, when I was building the wardrobe for my friend (we later went beyond the wedding suit and got into professional and casual attire), I didn't find that the rise mattered that much. Meaning, the rise basically graded up accordingly for him, just as it would for me. My trousers come up to just about under my belly button, although this positioning marker can differ on some people. Again, easier if you can post a full fit pic with a tailored jacket.

Personally, I'm not a fan of CM-styled Gurkha trousers. I like the style when it's worn in an SWD way (to use forum terms). But I don't really like "internet-y" versions of classic men's style -- the loud Italian fabrics, strange pairings, Gurkha pants, green double monks, bracelets, etc. I think you would look better in a normal pair of trousers.
Thank you for your input. I've attached a picture from when I first started getting into menswear, the jacket has since been tailored (only sleeve length though since I think that the jacket fits me good everywhere else). If I analyzed my own body, I would like to say that I am pretty proportionate, in regards to my torso compared to my legs. This is a tweed three piece suit (sorry for the quality, my acquaintance took a picture without me knowing so there were no redo's). Skärmavbild 2021-03-18 kl. 08.04.17.png

Again, there are a few style mistakes I'm making, I think it's a good picture for displaying my body proportions though. If i remember correctly, i think these trousers are mid-rise.
 

KrantzWasabi

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High rise and Ghurka are not intrinsically linked. Plenty of ways to get high rise trousers that are dont have Ghurka closures.

@SteveMc Above makes a good point regarding proportions. High rise elongates your legs. Depending on your build this can be good or bad.

I am 6'0. But my inseam is 30" (pretty short). I have a friend who is 6'0" with a 35" inseam (pretty long).

In my case, high rise makes me look more proportional. In his, he avoids it because it makes his torso look nonexistent.
I usually go with an inseam of 34" inches on off the rack items and they usually fit me pretty good. Please take a look at my reply on the comment above, to see a full body picture.
 

KrantzWasabi

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I believe this is more a matter of how your height is proportioned, i.e., do you have a long torso and relatively short legs (like Mr. Phelps) or the other way around? For a long torso or equally proportioned frames, high-rise trousers divide the frame nicely in the middle and help create a flattering silhouette.
Thank you for your comment, I would like to say that my upper body are relatively proportionate to my lower body. Please watch my reply to the other comment to see a full body picture.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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It's hard to see your trouser rise in that photo because of the waistcoat. In the photo, it almost looks as though the waistband is peeking out from under your waistcoat. If so, I think you can go higher.

The main thing about trouser rise is that, when you fasten your coat without a waistcoat, you don't want the rise to be so low that your shirt shows. Meaning, the space that's created below your buttoning point can cut away, forming a small triangle. If your trousers are too low, they will end well below this space, and thus create a triangular shirt area. This looks bad.

I personally rarely fasten my coats. I mostly wear them open. So I make sure that the trousers are high enough to hide this shirt area if and when I fasten my coat. At the same time, I don't like trousers so high that it looks terribly odd -- almost Steve Erkel-ish.

A friend of mine is about 6'1". Not as tall as you, but maybe gives you a sense of proportions in tailoring. I like the way he dresses

Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 12.16.32 AM.png
Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 12.16.35 AM.png



You can see how the trousers hide the shirt when the coat is fastened.

Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 12.16.45 AM.png
 

KrantzWasabi

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It's hard to see your trouser rise in that photo because of the waistcoat. In the photo, it almost looks as though the waistband is peeking out from under your waistcoat. If so, I think you can go higher.

The main thing about trouser rise is that, when you fasten your coat without a waistcoat, you don't want the rise to be so low that your shirt shows. Meaning, the space that's created below your buttoning point can cut away, forming a small triangle. If your trousers are too low, they will end well below this space, and thus create a triangular shirt area. This looks bad.

I personally rarely fasten my coats. I mostly wear them open. So I make sure that the trousers are high enough to hide this shirt area if and when I fasten my coat. At the same time, I don't like trousers so high that it looks terribly odd -- almost Steve Erkel-ish.

A friend of mine is about 6'1". Not as tall as you, but maybe gives you a sense of proportions in tailoring. I like the way he dresses

View attachment 1576671View attachment 1576670


You can see how the trousers hide the shirt when the coat is fastened.

View attachment 1576669
I think this picture shows the trouser rise and proportions better. These trousers should also be close to a mid-rise. I think these, from this angle look a bit short, and I would therefore maybe opt for a high-rise (this is the same jacket as in the last picture, which in this photo has been tailored)
Skärmavbild 2021-03-18 kl. 08.22.48.png
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I think this picture shows the trouser rise and proportions better. These trousers should also be close to a mid-rise. I think these, from this angle look a bit short, and I would therefore maybe opt for a high-rise (this is the same jacket as in the last picture, which in this photo has been tailored)
View attachment 1576672
Those might look weird with a higher rise, given how slim they are. The rise should be in concert with the rest of the cut. With very slim trousers, short sport coat, slim fit, you want a lower rise. It's coherent with the silhouette.

Personally think your outfit would work better in a fuller fit, higher rise, and more traditional cut coat. I think guys shy away from this stuff because they think the cut looks "old man-ish." But it can look very masculine and cool, in a young way too. The style has some verve.

Look at the photos I posted above. The jacket is fuller, longer, and has an extended shoulder line. The trouser are higher and fuller. Shoes are conservative and dark colored. If you focus on fit, I think you can wear simpler clothes and look good. Things like Ghurka pants, at least worn in the classic menswear way, is going to date poorly in a couple of years. Focus on fit and silhouette.
 

KrantzWasabi

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I personally love the esthetic of "old man-ish"!
I really do like the way that your friend is dressing in the pictures.

From what I've seen you write, my interpretation is that a more conservative approach in terms of the jacket with high-rise trousers are the way to go for my body type? Do you have any tips of online made-to-meassure sites that may provide these characteristics? There are not any stores in my city (or nearby cities for that matter) that provide specific tailoring like this.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I personally love the esthetic of "old man-ish"!
I really do like the way that your friend is dressing in the pictures.

From what I've seen you write, my interpretation is that a more conservative approach in terms of the jacket with high-rise trousers are the way to go for my body type? Do you have any tips of online made-to-meassure sites that may provide these characteristics? There are not any stores in my city (or nearby cities for that matter) that provide specific tailoring like this.
My own taste in tailoring leans very conservative and traditional. So yes, I think you would look better in those clothes. Personally think most guys would look better in more conservative choices, but I also realize this is not everyone's thing.

Given your height, I imagine you will have to find a good custom tailor. I strongly recommend against using any kind of online MTM. You need a skilled tailor to fit you in person. Or at least use an in-person MTM service where you can try on sample jackets. If you travel on occasion to major cities, sometimes you can fit appointments into certain reputable shops.

If you have a trip coming up to cities such as NYC or London, you can field this board for suggestions. The main page (Classic Menswear) will have more people who can help you when that time comes.

I don't know who makes an off-the-rack suit that will fit someone of your height, unfortunately. Online MTM is a bad idea, as those suits are almost always a disaster, especially if you have an atypical build.
 

KrantzWasabi

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My own taste in tailoring leans very conservative and traditional. So yes, I think you would look better in those clothes. Personally think most guys would look better in more conservative choices, but I also realize this is not everyone's thing.

Given your height, I imagine you will have to find a good custom tailor. I strongly recommend against using any kind of online MTM. You need a skilled tailor to fit you in person. Or at least use an in-person MTM service where you can try on sample jackets. If you travel on occasion to major cities, sometimes you can fit appointments into certain reputable shops.

If you have a trip coming up to cities such as NYC or London, you can field this board for suggestions. The main page (Classic Menswear) will have more people who can help you when that time comes.

I don't know who makes an off-the-rack suit that will fit someone of your height, unfortunately. Online MTM is a bad idea, as those suits are almost always a disaster, especially if you have an atypical build.
Thank you again for your suggestions and feedback! I appreciate it.
 

Egdon Heath

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... high rise trousers look funny on anyone -- regardless of build -- if they're not wearing a suit jacket or sport coat.
So what you're saying, and I don't disagree, is that if you don't wanna look like you're taking the dance floor at the Copa Cabana ca. 1940, you'll wear a coat to mostly cover up the fact that you're wearing hi-rise?

Okay. It's the times though that are mostly at fault, 2021 eyes not yet accustomed to the scenic view of well-tailored high rise.
I personally rarely fasten my coats. I mostly wear them open.
Really? Shame. A jacket deserves better than just being a toss-on.
 

dieworkwear

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So what you're saying, and I don't disagree, is that if you don't wanna look like you're taking the dance floor at the Copa Cabana ca. 1940, you'll wear a coat to mostly cover up the fact that you're wearing hi-rise?

Okay. It's the times though that are mostly at fault, 2021 eyes not yet accustomed to the scenic view of well-tailored high rise.

Really? Shame. A jacket deserves better than just being a toss-on.
Not sure I understand what you're trying to say in the first two paragraphs.

But yes, I rarely button my coats. And if I wear tailored clothing, I'm always in a jacket.
 

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