How is the Tobacco Calf compared to say the Dune Chromexcel, regarding wear, patina, water resistance, etc.?AARP! That's what my wife says just not quite as subtle. Worked from home today, breaking in a tobacco tassel.
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How is the Tobacco Calf compared to say the Dune Chromexcel, regarding wear, patina, water resistance, etc.?AARP! That's what my wife says just not quite as subtle. Worked from home today, breaking in a tobacco tassel.
View attachment 1467882
It's interesting to hear about the images people get in their head when they think about certain footwear. I know I get that feeling of 'old guy' with tassels and 'dbag' with bit loafers. I'm feeling like an old guy these days even though I'm only in my 30s. I can see myself wearing a suede pair.Tassel loafers, are not, by definition an "Old Guy" shoe, just a dressier form of a loafer. True, they were extremely popular when I was in my 30's (which was 30 yrs ago), but are still a valid form of footwear today for all ages.
How is the Tobacco Calf compared to say the Dune Chromexcel, regarding wear, patina, water resistance, etc.?
Thanks, just trying to plan future loafer purchase for the new year and trying to decide between the Tobacco Calf or the Dune CXL. Unsure which would get more use for me, or which would be more versatile in my daily wardrobe lolIt's pretty tough to compare these two because they are on opposite sides of the spectrum. CXL is tanned using animal hides that are almost 40SF while these Italian calf are closer to 12SF. It's roughly half the thickness as well.
The CXL has a casual look because it scuffs and patinas easily and shows extreme highs and lows from all of the wax and oils.
Wear - CXL has a soft, elastic feeling from the looser fiber structure. The break can be good or have heavy, pronounced creasing. The upside is, the article is so soft and has the touted hot-stuffed tannage so there is a lot to look at and it's resilient given the nature of the animal.
The Italian calf has a tight grain but has more give than our French Calf. It's also vegetable-tanned and has a lot of wax so the finish has a nice sheen to it out of the box. Due to the lighter weight, it doesn't feel as 'boardy' as some other calf.
Patina - In my experience, it patinas better than any other calf we've used. This article has a downside for makers/factories. It's very transparent. You can see growth marks on the base of the leather that would usually not be visible. Most chrome tannages on better grade calf tend to cover most of the minor lines on the hide whereas this article shows a lot of this. The tannery deals with this feedback on a regular basis because it's a pain to cut. All of that being said, the transparency makes for beautiful leather. It has a natural depth that reminds me of shell, the exact opposite of a corrected leather. Some don't like any natural marks like this, just a personal preference. Here is a photo of the tobacco tassel in direct sunlight in an effort to highlight some of these marks. Of course in real-life situations, they won't be this blatant.
View attachment 1467909
Water resistance - I would think CXL would perform better here if really put to the test as the tannery considers CXL as water resistant and some versions waterproof. That being said, a waterproof upper on a GYW shoe won't do much anyway because the water will come right through the upper stitching and welt inseam. This Italian calf will do just fine though on your average rainy days. As with any leather and especially veg-tanned, we would suggest letting them dry naturally and avoid heat.
Hope this helps!
This calfskin looks gorgeous! The growth marks look really interesting. Hope to see this sort of calfskin on more Grant Stone styles in the future.It's pretty tough to compare these two because they are on opposite sides of the spectrum. CXL is tanned using animal hides that are almost 40SF while these Italian calf are closer to 12SF. It's roughly half the thickness as well.
The CXL has a casual look because it scuffs and patinas easily and shows extreme highs and lows from all of the wax and oils.
Wear - CXL has a soft, elastic feeling from the looser fiber structure. The break can be good or have heavy, pronounced creasing. The upside is, the article is so soft and has the touted hot-stuffed tannage so there is a lot to look at and it's resilient given the nature of the animal.
The Italian calf has a tight grain but has more give than our French Calf. It's also vegetable-tanned and has a lot of wax so the finish has a nice sheen to it out of the box. Due to the lighter weight, it doesn't feel as 'boardy' as some other calf.
Patina - In my experience, it patinas better than any other calf we've used. This article has a downside for makers/factories. It's very transparent. You can see growth marks on the base of the leather that would usually not be visible. Most chrome tannages on better grade calf tend to cover most of the minor lines on the hide whereas this article shows a lot of this. The tannery deals with this feedback on a regular basis because it's a pain to cut. All of that being said, the transparency makes for beautiful leather. It has a natural depth that reminds me of shell, the exact opposite of a corrected leather. Some don't like any natural marks like this, just a personal preference. Here is a photo of the tobacco tassel in direct sunlight in an effort to highlight some of these marks. Of course in real-life situations, they won't be this blatant.
View attachment 1467909
Water resistance - I would think CXL would perform better here if really put to the test as the tannery considers CXL as water resistant and some versions waterproof. That being said, a waterproof upper on a GYW shoe won't do much anyway because the water will come right through the upper stitching and welt inseam. This Italian calf will do just fine though on your average rainy days. As with any leather and especially veg-tanned, we would suggest letting them dry naturally and avoid heat.
Hope this helps!
Thanks, just trying to plan future loafer purchase for the new year and trying to decide between the Tobacco Calf or the Dune CXL. Unsure which would get more use for me, or which would be more versatile in my daily wardrobe lol
It's pretty tough to compare these two because they are on opposite sides of the spectrum. CXL is tanned using animal hides that are almost 40SF while these Italian calf are closer to 12SF. It's roughly half the thickness as well.
The CXL has a casual look because it scuffs and patinas easily and shows extreme highs and lows from all of the wax and oils.
Wear - CXL has a soft, elastic feeling from the looser fiber structure. The break can be good or have heavy, pronounced creasing. The upside is, the article is so soft and has the touted hot-stuffed tannage so there is a lot to look at and it's resilient given the nature of the animal.
The Italian calf has a tight grain but has more give than our French Calf. It's also vegetable-tanned and has a lot of wax so the finish has a nice sheen to it out of the box. Due to the lighter weight, it doesn't feel as 'boardy' as some other calf.
Patina - In my experience, it patinas better than any other calf we've used. This article has a downside for makers/factories. It's very transparent. You can see growth marks on the base of the leather that would usually not be visible. Most chrome tannages on better grade calf tend to cover most of the minor lines on the hide whereas this article shows a lot of this. The tannery deals with this feedback on a regular basis because it's a pain to cut. All of that being said, the transparency makes for beautiful leather. It has a natural depth that reminds me of shell, the exact opposite of a corrected leather. Some don't like any natural marks like this, just a personal preference. Here is a photo of the tobacco tassel in direct sunlight in an effort to highlight some of these marks. Of course in real-life situations, they won't be this blatant.
View attachment 1467909
Water resistance - I would think CXL would perform better here if really put to the test as the tannery considers CXL as water resistant and some versions waterproof. That being said, a waterproof upper on a GYW shoe won't do much anyway because the water will come right through the upper stitching and welt inseam. This Italian calf will do just fine though on your average rainy days. As with any leather and especially veg-tanned, we would suggest letting them dry naturally and avoid heat.
Hope this helps!
Been waiting a long time for these to come in.
I'll wear them the next couple days and post pics this weekend.I'm very interested to see photos after a day or two of wear. I suspect the colors will change quickly around creases. These are really cool!
I was mistaken when I said there would be another fill in this year, the latest few pairs were the last re-stock until Spring, unfortunately.@GrantStone any idea when the restocked navy suede Ottawa will hit the site?
Thanks, just trying to plan future loafer purchase for the new year and trying to decide between the Tobacco Calf or the Dune CXL. Unsure which would get more use for me, or which would be more versatile in my daily wardrobe lol
Any plans to bring the Tobacco Calf to other non loafer footwear?
That's interesting. Is it that much thinner than the Annonay Tannery calfskin?We probably won't be using this on boot patterns just given the thickness of the leather. IMO, it's perfect for a loafer because it has a tight grain structure and a lighter weight.
That's interesting. Is it that much thinner than the Annonay Tannery calfskin?