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greenhouse

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So I posted this picture on my instagram page, and created the # #weargrantstone, Instagram blocked the content as it "may not meet instagram decency standards" WTF????? It's shoes for God's sake............
Color (skin), shape, and number (2) come together to resemble a certain part of the body (hint: tits... or ass). At least to the algorithm. I wonder if the "wear" in #weargrantstone also factored in.
 

audog

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Color (skin), shape, and number (2) come together to resemble a certain part of the body (hint: tits... or ass). At least to the algorithm. I wonder if the "wear" in #weargrantstone also factored in.
OMG, I didn't post a penis or breasts, just freakin shoes. Algorithm's be damned. I guess this is why humans are better than machines. Hope they get it sorted out as I want a #weargrantstone to be available
 

Neo1

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This seems to be a reoccurring story: for medium/narrow feet, sizing 1 whole size down from Brannock measurement works on the Leo. The same is true for me.

Out of curiosity, what is your best fitting last across all brands in the heel? I have basically the same foot characteristics as you me mentioned and have trouble with heel slip almost universally. I was looking at the AE 42 last for some casual beaters, but have not tried them on yet
If you really have the same foot characteristics as me....I almost couldn't believe it. There's lots of people that have narrow pancake flat feet as well as people who have a high instep coupled with a wide width. But narrow and high instep...not so much. But hey, if you really are a "member of the club" I'm ecstatic to be able to provide you with any info/help I can my friend.

Heel fit is an interesting question that made me think for a while. I think overall, I would form three groups - large heel, "standard" or "normal" heel, and narrow heel. Since (obviously, given the fact that I wrote the AE fit article, own 101 pairs and tried on likely twice that amount) I know AE the most I'll fall back on that, but I'll try to branch out to others as well.

As far as "large" heels go, I would include the following: AE's 511, 97, 79, 444, the 145 (somewhat) and 234 lasts - all of these have a larger than normal, fuller fitting heelcup. For Alden, the tassel loafers on the Aberdeen last definitely had this feeling as well. In each of these, I needed something (whether it be narrower width, narrower toebox, something) to hold me in, otherwise they were too large. Many of AE's sneakers also use an overly large heel.

This probably won't help you much, but I would group most things into what I would call a fairly normal or standard heelcup. AE's 65, 201, 108, 222, 1757, 64, 1943, 333, 2321, 2531, 42, 42N, virtually all of the handsewns (114, 555, 2592, 722), and even B34 - as large as the toebox is on the boot lasts the heel is still quite "standard". You mentioned the 42 last in particular - the defining characteristic on this one is the crazy high cone. With a high instep like mine, the cone height is the dominating factor, and take this out of the equation (and then some, with the 42) and I'd have to drop multiple widths to accomodate the excess volume. From Alden I would include the Hampton and 379X lasts for sure.

In terms of a true "narrower" heelcup, I would include AE's 606 and 2042 at the top - these use a true narrow heel that takes a couple wears even for me to break in. Maybe slightly less narrow than this I would include GS' Traveler Penny.

Keep in mind this is just a comparison of heel fit; many other characteristics define the various lasts I mentioned above.
 

manowar

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@Neo1

Much obliged for your extremely detailed write-up! It's nice to read a "narrow-heel digest" straight from the authority (I have certainly benefited from your AE fit article). Being in a small town, I have limited access to quality shoes I can try on without ordering a huge quantity of inventory online and returning the leftovers.

I will have to partially retract my earlier statement, in that while I do have low volume feet with a narrow heel, my instep is just average (moderate arch). The AE 201 last is too roomy over my instep for example.

I was unfamiliar with the AE 606 and 2042 lasts, evidently because I have long avoided loafers due to heel slip.

The issue I have is that most shoes pinch my toes but are loose in the heel. To bring things back to Grant Stone (arguably the superior shoes), I appreciate that their ball width is generous while the heel is snug. To me that's a rare thing to find in shoes that don't look like clunky Birkenstocks.
 

Turns31

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Anyone have some bourbon suedes with some wear on them?
 

audog

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I love the smaller eyelets Grant Stone went to on the country derby and cap toe boots. Would like to see those used more vs the larger ones.
Agree the smaller eyelets are nice, use depends on the "vibe" one is trying to achieve with a boot/shoe. The larger eyelets/hooks speak "work boot ethic" and that is a huge demographic buying segment for boots. It only makes sense, when a new company, to go after the segment of the market that is buying the product (get those people who might buy Iron Rangers or 1000 mile or Truman/OakStreet/etc....) The smaller eyelets speak to a more "mature" segment of the marketplace that own boots, and may be looking for a more "refined" presentation. I happen to like both, myself. I don't think the Diesel boots would look "right" with the smaller eyelets, but the cap toe boots wouldn't look "right" with the larger ones. GS has a good design engineer, who seems to have their pulse on what the public wants. Now it's our job to convince the "public" that they want smaller eyelets and leather soles............
 

Turns31

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Define "some wear" please. I can post pix with 30 or so wears on a pair of boots.
That's plenty. The only pics of seen of that leather is brand new. I know my Hawthorne Iron Rangers looked beat up and discolored after a handful of wears.
 

audog

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That's plenty. The only pics of seen of that leather is brand new. I know my Hawthorne Iron Rangers looked beat up and discolored after a handful of wears.
And that is part of the appeal of Iron Rangers! Mine looked beat to sh*t after 4 wears, but then again I bought them as true work boots. Here are some bourbon suede diesel boots with 30 or so wears (boots) and about 15wears (loafers). Both were treated with Tarrago Nanospray prior to first wear,
IMG_9911.jpeg
IMG_9923.jpeg
 

Turns31

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And that is part of the appeal of Iron Rangers! Mine looked beat to sh*t after 4 wears, but then again I bought them as true work boots. Here are some bourbon suede diesel boots with 30 or so wears (boots) and about 15wears (loafers). Both were treated with Tarrago Nanospray prior to first wear,View attachment 1291277View attachment 1291278
Those look good. No denim rub off where jeans hit them? How do they do in rain? I guess I've never had a suede boot, just rough out.
 

audog

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That's plenty. The only pics of seen of that leather is brand new. I know my Hawthorne Iron Rangers looked beat up and discolored after a handful of wears.
My Bourbon Suede Diesel boots should be considered a "prototype" as they are all eyelets, current production has eyelet/hooks. I got these prior to them being part of the normal lineup of GS.
 

audog

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Those look good. No denim rub off where jeans hit them? How do they do in rain? I guess I've never had a suede boot, just rough out.
No denim rub off that I have noticed, suede in the rain is just fine, even untreated. Most think suede is a "delicate" leather, but actually is pretty damn robust and able to handle darn near anything we can throw at it. The Tarrago Nano does make it water resistant (rain beads up and rolls off similar to a waxed car), but honestly, allow suede to dry naturally (trees installed of course) and then brush with a good suede brush (I like Pig Bristle) and it's good to go. Have no fear, suede can handle it!
 

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