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Grant Stone - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GrantStone, Feb 17, 2016.

  1. audog

    audog Distinguished Member

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    Time to start saving pennies I guess, let's see Dune, Crimson -CXL (not a Navy CXL person)-yet? Bourbon and Ivory suede- YES. I will have to build more shelving.........
     

  2. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    For Oliver, I'm at a 12D vs. my Leo of 11.5D. I'm not sure if there are others like me, but what would be the recommendation there? I'd be wearing these with thin socks, and might try sockless...
     

  3. Manzone32

    Manzone32 Active Member

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    Maybe both of our questions can be answered! I fit in an 8.5D or a 8E in Leo. 8E is my best fit. I will definitely be getting the loafers for sockless wear!
     

  4. up1911fan

    up1911fan Distinguished Member

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  5. GrantStone

    GrantStone Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Looking at the photos you post of the leo in 11.5D, a 12D would probably be the best place to start.

    It sounds like an 8E would be best. Finally, we will be releasing a style in both D and E.

    Unfortunately, nothing on the burner right now.
     

  6. SJR3

    SJR3 Senior Member

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    Fair enough. Also I didn't mean to sound like a Debbie Downer in my last reply... I'll likely still get a pair of your loafers in calf. I've just been browsing the Alden thread too much, and I think I have shell fever. :crackup:

    I don't know a whole lot about shell sourcing. I've read it's getting harder to come by and there's something of a shortage. But is it really that much of a problem? "4 to 8 years" doesn't sound very encouraging, lol. Would you mind shedding a little more light on the shell sourcing issue? I follow a few other leather goods makers who seem to have no problem obtaining shells from an Italian tannery, but I imagine the sheer quantity needed for shoes changes the game (compared to smaller items like wallets).

    Fingers crossed you guys can offer at least a few shell cordovan loafer options much sooner than 4-8 years from now. In my mind at least, it really is the ideal leather for a loafer, no question. (Although suede is a close second, as @audog mentioned.)
     

  7. SJR3

    SJR3 Senior Member

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  8. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    This is the 12D Oliver
    [​IMG]
    and the 11.5D Oliver
    [​IMG]
    And the 11.5D Leo
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2019

  9. audog

    audog Distinguished Member

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    V-gap looks better on 12 Oliver, have you had them both long enough for footbed to "settle"? If I really yank on the laces on my Oxfords, I can get almost full closure, which is fine by me as I only wear them maybe once every month or so (too many shoes/boots) which is either a blessing or a curse :)
     

  10. GrantStone

    GrantStone Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Of course. This is one of our most common inquiries.

    There are a couple tanneries that offer good shell that we could potentially start a program with now. However most do not have a long history with the material and their visibility on quality, availability and pricing is very limited.
    I believe it is difficult to beat Horween shell. We have a good relationship with the tannery but it may take time and a larger commitment on our side to jump into a program.

    For the tanneries, it seems they are frequently approached about shell programs and are sometimes open to start small but very few brands/factories will be able to actually put together a good sized program and keep it going long term. Just like any other production, continuity is what the factory or tannery wants long term. Working with a smaller shoe brand like ourselves is most likely a pain considering we want a certain selection and good pricing (vs someone buying one shell at a time for accessories).

    The other large factor is our tentativeness as a factory, making larger quantities. It is crucial to limit production errors with this material, otherwise it can be devastating. While shell is very durable in everyday elements, it's really delicate at a factory level. It doesn't react well to high temperatures and moisture (especially when combined) and can't be pulled/stretched like a bovine article.
    A company like Alden has the shell production down to a science and I'm sure it took many years or decades to perfect it across multiple patterns.

    I only mention 4+ years because we hope to have a full line but it won't be a quick process. We have a couple people who are very good with hand staining, even when starting with a crust base so it would be great if we could have an array of hand stained colors one day.
     

  11. audog

    audog Distinguished Member

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    Thank you for the info, personally I would rather see GS have slower, planned growth and remain a viable independent footwear company for a long time, rather than jump into everything too soon without regard for the sustainable future of the company. I plan on being a customer for a while (long while I hope) and can wait a bit for a top notch product, as I'm fairly sure you guys will have it down before releasing to us, the consumer.
     

  12. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    That's an extremely dangerous fever, and it can really screw you up. I'd take two Ottawas and call me in a week.

    If I can take a guess at this, it's all about consistency - you build a business on a steady supply line and relationships. If you're an occasional buyer at erratic quantities, it's hard for Horween to give you great pricing, availability on rarer colors, etc. On the customer side you build demand for something you can't reliably make - that doesn't make anyone happy, and you have to ensure that the materials you're using make it through the build process well and reliably. Even Alden has evolved on points like this - they won't make black shell with antique edges any more because that combination created too many seconds. I think it's the same with brass and Color #8. In other words, new materials need to be checked out for manufacturing and warranty implications.

    The team at Grant Stone seems to be very methodical. I love the idea of kudu Ottawas, shell Diesels and all kinds of stuff, but I'm also glad they're careful about change in the name of quality.
     

  13. ccpl14

    ccpl14 Senior Member

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    216E00B0-0AFF-4C74-817F-1965BF1944DB.jpeg
     

  14. audog

    audog Distinguished Member

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    Maiden voyage this evening, these showed up around 3:45 this afternoon. Black Diesel on rubber sole. I messed up and didn't get black diesels with leather last year, but these are darn good. Initial thoughts, typical GS QC, in other words, I can't find a damn thing wrong with any part of them. Leo last-dead on, although I did go up 1/2 size over what I would prefer, partially because GS was sold out of the 8.5D and partially as I really do need to wear my orthotics more often to prevent ankle pain the next day and 9D fits perfect with the orthotics. I like how my heel seems to suck into place when I put on GS boots, if I could assign a sound to it, kind of like those sliding doors on the Starship Enterprise. The only thing I would like, is a more waxed cotton lace, I replaced the leather laces with the cotton ones sent with the boots, but they are like those Alden 405 cotton laces, not waxed at all. I would prefer a more waxed lace, but that is a minor nitpicking thing. Otherwise these are a great addition to my GS collection. ATTENTION GS- you need to come out with a new boot as I now have all you make :)
    Oh, dog approved as well. IMG_4775.jpeg IMG_4779.jpeg
     

  15. audog

    audog Distinguished Member

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