Graham Browne London.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Getzione, May 12, 2010.

  1. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

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    I've decided to splurge into the world of bespoke, and are looking at potential tailors.

    So i was wondering if anyone had any recent experience with Graham Browne in London?
    Im looking for information about the housecut, shoulderpadding possibilities etc.
    I know Simon from Permanent Style have nothing but good things to say about them, but it would be great to get some more opinions.

    Ill be having a SC made, not a suit (will be more of use to me).

    Pictures will be greatly appreciated!

    /G
     


  2. the_sartorialist

    the_sartorialist Senior member

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    I think a lot has already been said about Graham Browne by Simon Crompton and on various threads in this forum. I, along, with a few others here, have gone to Graham Browne on more than one occasion, so that should hopefully say something about their work product.

    As far as possibilities are concerned, Russell very kindly agreed to experiment with creating a fully unlined sportscoat for me, which you can read about on Permanent Style (see the earlier entry on unlined jackets).

    If you have any other questions, send me a PM.
     


  3. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    Check out Permanent Style – there's loads on there – in particular under one of the right-hand sections "A Bespoke Suit, Step by Step".
     


  4. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

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    Check out Permanent Style - there's loads on there - in particular under one of the right-hand sections "A Bespoke Suit, Step by Step".

    Thank you, i've read it already. Great read, but i wish there was more pictures of the fit.
     


  5. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    I'm sure over on the London Lounge, someone had an unlined jacket made up too, although there weren't any fit pictures if I recall.

    I'm not too sure they have a house style as such and are fairly accomodating, within reason (apparently they had to have their arms twisted to make the unlined jacket).
     


  6. half_brit

    half_brit New Member

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    Hi,

    I'm afraid I've got no pictures either, but I have a few details :

    They don't really have a house style.

    First of all, Dan and Russell are both from the military tailoring world, so they have a lot of experience in firm shoulders and quite fitted and shaped jackets.

    My cutter is Russell and he is quite open to trying anything you could ask.

    Personnally, I like my suits as 1 button peak lapels with a well defined waist and with a classic british shape (narrow waist, flared skirt), with flat front trousers, no turnups and quite fitted.

    He wasn't very keen to give me slim fitting trousers (he was right, I have big calves) or slim sleeves, but he told me that Dan would be more prone to cutting this kind of shape.

    The thing which I liked, is that Russell told me that he sent my jacket pieces to a tailor who usually takes a bit more time to work on it, but would be the most suited for what I wanted of the tailors they work with.

    Next time, I'll probably ask them to make me a double-breasted suit with only 2 buttons and still quite shaped, to see how they far with this kind of thing.

    Hope it helps a bit.
     


  7. the_sartorialist

    the_sartorialist Senior member

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    I'm not too sure they have a house style as such and are fairly accomodating, within reason (apparently they had to have their arms twisted to make the unlined jacket).
    I think all you need to do is just ask nicely. [​IMG]
     


  8. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    I think all you need to do is just ask nicely. [​IMG]

    Aha! Sorry Sartorialist, I should have read your previous post more thoroughly! :blind:
     


  9. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

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    Hi,

    I'm afraid I've got no pictures either, but I have a few details :

    They don't really have a house style.

    First of all, Dan and Russell are both from the military tailoring world, so they have a lot of experience in firm shoulders and quite fitted and shaped jackets.

    My cutter is Russell and he is quite open to trying anything you could ask.

    Personnally, I like my suits as 1 button peak lapels with a well defined waist and with a classic british shape (narrow waist, flared skirt), with flat front trousers, no turnups and quite fitted.

    He wasn't very keen to give me slim fitting trousers (he was right, I have big calves) or slim sleeves, but he told me that Dan would be more prone to cutting this kind of shape.

    The thing which I liked, is that Russell told me that he sent my jacket pieces to a tailor who usually takes a bit more time to work on it, but would be the most suited for what I wanted of the tailors they work with.

    Next time, I'll probably ask them to make me a double-breasted suit with only 2 buttons and still quite shaped, to see how they far with this kind of thing.

    Hope it helps a bit.


    That helps alot actually. Thank you.
    I like a welldefined waist, but im not to keen on firm shoulders.
    Im thinking of getting a 3 patchpockets jacket made up, pref. with a defined waist and a softer shoulder. Contemplating between a 3\\2 and a 2 though.
     


  10. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    their soft shoulder isnt really soft by anyone elses standards. spalla camicia isnt an option. they used pre fabricated shoulder pads, which is different to some savile row houses, but you cant expect the same level of work when paying a third of the price.
     


  11. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

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    their soft shoulder isnt really soft by anyone elses standards. spalla camicia isnt an option. they used pre fabricated shoulder pads, which is different to some savile row houses, but you cant expect the same level of work when paying a third of the price.

    I dont need anything as soft as a spalla camicia, but i tend to find a really structured shoulder quite ugly to look at. How will a pre fabricated shoulder pad adapt to different shoulders? Do they shape the pads differently for the different shoulders themselvs?
     


  12. half_brit

    half_brit New Member

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    They do use premade shoulder pads. During my basted fittings, Russell had prepared a couple of different ones to insert into the shoulder. As I like a firm shoulder, I didn't say anything, but I presume you can talk him or Dan into doing a softer shoulder. In the end, I don't even know how the other pad looked like, as I was happy with the first one. As I was a bespoke virgin at that point, it was probably the kind of detail best left to the cutter. Your best option is to call them or get there and ask them how soft a shoulder they can do. When you get the information, please post it back here, I'm interested in it. I was also thinking about doing a 1-button sportscoat with notch lapels and 3 patch pockets in dashing tweed's urban check.
     


  13. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    They do have varying sizes of shoulder pad. I go for the thinnest, but you might not find that satisfies your soft shoulder request. There is typically a bit of roping on the shoulder as well, and i dont think theyre that flexible on doing something without it.
    Best to have a look what they have on the rack and see how it fits in with your ideal.

    Otherwise, WW Chan is in London this weekend, and they will do you a soft shoulder. You wont get a fitting unless you plan to go to HKG soon, or youre happy to wait the 6 months until they're back next.
     


  14. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

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    They do have varying sizes of shoulder pad. I go for the thinnest, but you might not find that satisfies your soft shoulder request. There is typically a bit of roping on the shoulder as well, and i dont think theyre that flexible on doing something without it.
    Best to have a look what they have on the rack and see how it fits in with your ideal.

    Otherwise, WW Chan is in London this weekend, and they will do you a soft shoulder. You wont get a fitting unless you plan to go to HKG soon, or youre happy to wait the 6 months until they're back next.



    Yes, from what i've seen on Permanent Style it seems there is some roping involved, but not much. Unfortunately, im not located in London, so i wont be able to go and check out the racks. I was hoping to find enough information to decide whether or not to go.

    Have you tried any other tailors in London? [​IMG]
     


  15. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    Yes, George of Cleveland Street. Cheapest bespoke I know of, at around 500ish GBP.
    George isnt really flexible in what he offers though, so if youre going to start asking about 3-roll-2 and patch pockets, i wouldnt advise going down this route.
    There are a few more places that are sub 1k, but i havent gotten around to them yet.
     


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