1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Graham Browne Bespoke Tailor - My First Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GodAtum, Jun 18, 2011.

  1. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England
    Although i dont really want to comment on the "fit" as i dont really feel qualified enough i'd love to know what the guys who are qualified think of this. I know its sometimes not the right thing to do for tailors to comment on other tailors but this to me looks like your Dad gave you a suit and it needs amending in various places. :lookaround:
     
  2. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,029
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2006
    

    i thought the shoulders might not be too bad from front on- it's hard to tell without knowing the actual shape of your shoulders. from behind however they look way too wide.
    and then there are the other problems already highlighted... i can say without doubt the fit is badly off but wish someone with more tailoring knowledge would highlight exactly why.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2011
  3. Achillus

    Achillus Senior member

    Messages:
    1,231
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2011
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    That fit of your suit is terrible. How can a tailor sells you this kind of clothes with a honest feeling. Wtf.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2011
  4. Wjleier

    Wjleier Senior member

    Messages:
    191
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2011
    Location:
    Saint Paul, MN
    @ godatum i need to commend you for how calm you are... I would have flown off the handle bars.
     
  5. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England
    

    I must admit this sentiment did cross my mind, i cant believe how laid back about the whole thing he is. I would need copious amounts of drugs to keep me that calm.
     
  6. GodAtum

    GodAtum Senior member

    Messages:
    143
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2009
    Location:
    London, UK
    I'm very surprised at how bad people say the suit is, I will show Russel this thread and see what his opinion is. Personally I fell the suit is quite good compared to my other cheap suits but I have no experience in tailored suits so I respect your views and will push Russel for my money back.
     
  7. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England
    "Quite good compared to my cheap suits!" !!!!!! It should look and feel considerably better than your cheap suits my friend . Over a grand for a suit is real money for a suit. I have a few suits that are well over the grand and they certainly feel/look better than my "cheap suits!"
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2011
  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,111
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Dont show him this thread thats just going to upset and annoy him. Try and get your money back though or a remake. The suit in total fairness is appalling in terms of fit I cant imagine an off the rack fitting worse.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. dandy1

    dandy1 Senior member

    Messages:
    128
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2011
    what happened with this buddy? did GB resolve this for you either by fixing or a replacement?

    dandy.
     
  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Any updates if Russell from Graham Browne remedied this?
     
  11. Putonghua73

    Putonghua73 Senior member

    Messages:
    366
    Joined:
    May 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    My interest in this thread is the same interest I have in the Indochino thread - it's like standing around gawking at the aftermath of a car crash.

    I find this thread disquieting for a number of reasons:
    1. The preference for MTM / bespoke by the newbie suit buyer
    2. Tailor allowed OP to walk out of the door with said suit
    3. Fit and the need for self-measurement

    I'm always interested in the reasons for why someone wishes to go down the MTM / bespoke path in terms of what factors did they evaluate to arrive at their decision. Was the decision based primarily on fit? Do they actually know their own measurements through measuring themselves and/or their existing suits or garments? Do they want specific fabric, construction or tailoring (styling) choices? The whole skinny suit and lapel fashion forward trend springs to mind. What level of experience and knowledge do they have?

    The fact that the OP posted the following on his blog tells me everything that we need to know: "At first glance it looks and fits great but please feel free to comment". The use of "great" as an adjective, whether someone is buying or selling a garment, a laptop / tablet, sound system, car, et al, informs us that the buyer is unable to articulate exactly what it is that they wish to buy. Thus, they are unable to satisfactorily determine whether what they have bought meets their requirements and is of the right quality.

    I find this disquieting because someone may think that they require MTM / bespoke, yet their reasons for choosing this particular path, may be the wrong ones when OTR may be perfectly suitable. Especially given their lack of experience and knowledge.

    I also get the impression - rightly or wrongly - from the OP that a big influence in his decision making was the kudos in going MTM / bespoke because of his reference to being new to bespoke tailoring, paid £1,100 for the suit and commented, "Personally I fell the suit is quite good compared to my other cheap suits but I have no experience in tailored suits so I respect your views and will push Russel for my money back.". Fabric, maybe. Fit, absolutely not!

    This leads to how well the client can articulate and communicate their requirements to the tailor. It's perfectly obvious that the OP is unable to articulate their requirements or possesses the body of knowledge to even evaluate the basics if they believe the suit in questions "looks and fits great" (!) and "personally I feel the suit is quite good compared to my other cheap suits". Again, I believe the price factor was the big evaluator here i.e. it costs much more so should automatically be superior, irrespective of other factors.

    There is a paucity of information to allow us to determine exactly what was communicated. For all we know, the OP may well have provided instructions that he wanted to achieve a David Byrne look circa early 80s. We do not know what advice the OP received and was ignored. Also, by his own admission, the OP had no knowledge or understanding of timescales: "I thought it usually takes about 6-8 weeks for a suit", and more tellingly, "I think I was in a rush to get the suit as I had been waiting more than 10 weeks so was a bit fed up of it taking so long".

    While I do chime in with the general assessment that the tailor should never have allowed that suit to leave the shop, I think it may be a little unfair to heap criticism on the tailoring without understanding the full story. I initially was horrified when I first saw the pictures, but after reading the thread and the OPs blog, it slowly dawned on me that perhaps the end result is less to do with the actual quality of the tailoring, then the OPs failure to express exactly what he wants. That said, I would never walk out of a shop with an OTR suit that fitted that poorly (thank in benefit to SF).

    Leading to the SF101 and perhaps the need to re-empahsize the importance of fit and the need to take accurate self-measurements before buying an OTR suit. Let alone going down the MTM / bespoke path.

    The most damaging aspect would be to GB's reputation based upon the posted images, which may not be representative of the tailor's true work, and more an expression (or not) of the client. The ideal solution, based upon the initial consultation, would have been to refuse the OPs custom. But how many tailors are financially in the position to be able to pick and choose business?
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012
  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    I respectfully disagree with certain points being made:

    Yes, it'd be beneficial if the client knows what he/she wants and is able to articulate it, but I disagree that just because the client is unable to clearly articulate what he wants, wool should be pulled over his eyes, and offered something clearly substandard.

    Please bear in mind that we are not discussing about stylistic treatments (1 button, peak lapels etc) here. We are talking about the fundamentals of a reasonably fitting suit. Surely, a client doesn't need to tell the tailor (who arguably should be far more knowledgeable about his product than the client) how to ensure that a suit fits well? To argue so is analogous to a customer telling a Michelin-starred chef how much salt to add to his dish. Or going to Huntsman or Rubinacci and telling the cutters how to do their job.

    Ensuring that a suit fits well (with/without the client's direction) is the very fundamentals of tailoring. If you can't do that without being directed, the tailor/cutter should go back and re-take tailoring 101. Or a course in ethics. It seems that OP doesn't have a clear opinion on what he wants, hence, it is clearly arguable that Russel would have carte blanche over the process, and thus, should have been able to deliver a well-cut suit without resistance. He did not, and screwed it up big-time. The pictures below are evidence of substandard fitting.

    It'd also do well not to forget that not everybody reads up as much on tailoring at styleforum posters, and it cannot be reasonably assumed that everybody who goes to a tailor without adequate knowledge is shown the door looking like his suit has been thrift-ed from Oxfam for 1100 pounds.


     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    Bloody hell guys, there is no real judgement until someone post his successful attempts from GB, they do make plenty of nice suits for client with great fit. It is really unfair to magnify the unfortunate case, where I am sure the big names will also have done the similar mistake, just for some reason they don't post their bad experience.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
  14. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    According to Manton's post a while ago, Anderson and Sheppard refused to acknowledge that the fit of his suit was a little off, so I actually agree that big houses do make mistakes, and that they can be obstinate.

    But, I think the key difference is that the mistakes at the more reputable houses are usually small, and usually problems that fussy people like us notice :D

    I don't deny that GB can cut a reasonable suit if directed, I just feel sorry for this poor fella who didn't know better, and paid 1100 pounds for this crap because Russell (or whoever the cutter is) didn't think it was worth his while to address the most basic problems of fit, all because this fella is ill-knowledgeable because he depended on the professional for input.

    It's like paying $300 to a doctor for a medical check-up, and because you don't know better, the doctor doesn't bother to do his job properly and screws you over by doing slip-shot work. In this case, the issue is not about the competency of the doctor, but rather, an issue with his ethos and ethical standards.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
  15. Rincon

    Rincon Senior member

    Messages:
    365
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    That is bespoke? Honestly that looks terrible. Like Hickey Freeman OTR

    Edit: looking again and this is seriously a crime against humanity. Look how the sleeves lay... you need to light this on fire, wrap it around a brick and throw it through their window.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
    2 people like this.
  16. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    Yep, I do feel sorry for the chap who receives such a unfortunate outcome, I will be bloody angry and demand for a remark in the shop, before the final payment is made.
    BTW, do you think the negligent of making a SB jacket from a DB order counts as a big mistake? At least the customer thinks so when I was a shop boy in SR
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by