Gotten to a point you don't buy anything "nice/$" OTR ? Same price for MTM/bespoke?

[Reevolving]

So, I want a versatile all-purpose summer "one" jacket.
I was looking at a Cucinelli jacket figuring it would be slimmer fitting than other labels.
Was going to spend the $300 for it, and then realized it was way too long. Then I saw another one for $700+ that looked great.
Then I think to myself, why the hell would I spend $700 for something online, sight unseen, fit unknown?
It's just too close to MTM prices. At that price point, it seems easier to just go bespoke or MTM.
In fact, it's cheaper to get something done MTM, in person.

First, I fully buy into the SF mantra of having fewer articles of clothing... and limiting yourself to only good to great stuff.

As we know good fit trumps higher quality/fabric. (Ideally, you have both)
For $700, I'd rather have lower quality material, but a perfect fit.

Anyone else get to that point where it's just not even worth wasting your time looking for a deal ?
That middle ground no longer makes sense. ($250-$700) I am at the "F*ck it" point.
If I only need 2-3 jackets, either I get them for cheap ($189 Indochino) or go the distance.

I think I am done with considering OTR jackets for good.
At the worst, Indochino, et al, are the way I am going on the low end.

I reached the same place with dress shirts.
There's almost no point in paying any premium for slim fit shirts.
b/c even BB extra slim fit needs to be taken in.
So, my new rule is to not waste money on expensive shirts.
Right now, my current rotation is entirely $60 BB-ExSFits which is nice fabric and tailored further.
But, after this, I am treating shirts as disposable.
As long as it's not **** cotton, like the garbage sold at Uniqlo, I'll just buy a $20-$30 shirt from Macy's,
and get it tailored for another $10. Blows away any $75-$200 OTR shirt without alterations.

 

[The King of Teeth]

I am definitely at the "*******" point. I just had my cousin over and gave him a bunch of stuff. After getting my shirts bespoke from Turnbull and Asser, some Zegna MTM and some other full bespoke slacks and suits, off the rack is just not an option anymore. I dont look for deals like I used to. I know that if I get a deal, getting stuff altered is hit or miss. Im 6'4 about 210 pounds - so a relatively big guy. off the rack just dont cut it for me. However my mantra is lots of good stuff.

Regardless, Im with you- dont waste my time with crap- baggy shirts, baggy pants, baggy jackets. I want stuff that fits!

 

[anxiouscowboy]

Yeah my indochino is a lot cheaper and fits great. Has anyone in new york city ever gone to someone to have a shirt/ suit made? I've heard of a few people buying fabric and getting something made but I don't know how to source that kind of service

 

[Liquidus]

In general, would there be a difference in fabric quality between a MTM and RTW jacket at the same price? With MTM part of what you're paying is going to the tailor for his services, while with RTW part of what you're paying is going toward the store's costs for holding the jacket. I wonder if it evens out.

 

[Reevolving]

Liquid, yes, I assume a $1200 ORT jacket has great fabric, is overpriced, or a little of both.
Personally, I'm willing to trade off superior fabric for better fit, for the same $600, say.
I'll take a lesser MTM jacket over a cashmere OTR that is poorly fitting.

 

[emptym]

I think there's some truth to this. "Fewer things but better things" is pretty much my ideal, like many of us on SF . Of course, we can't all afford the best of everything. Certainly not all at once. So it does make sense imo to make do for now with things that aren't great, while saving money and periodically buying a few really good things.

 

[jrd617]

Indochino jackets often come out looking sloppy. Collar gaps, shoulders that are too wide/narrow, short front balance, poorly constructed shoulders that ripple, etc. Plus, they must have cut back on the fabric quality and amount of stitching on the inside the garment for those price points.

I'd rather stick with a "slim" brand OTR jacket that fits in the chest and shoulders and work from there with a competent tailor.

 

[Reevolving]

jrd, which are your favorite slim OTR brands? What what ballpark do the jackets run? The hard part is, slim OTR jackets seem to run $1000+ retail. At that point, you can get an MTM suit, measured in person in NYC for $700+.

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by Reevolving

jrd, which are your favorite slim OTR brands? What what ballpark do the jackets run? The hard part is, slim OTR jackets seem to run $1000+ retail. At that point, you can get an MTM suit, measured in person in NYC for $700+.
If you're looking for a business suit, the BB Fitzgerald and RL Bradford are the best options. They are decent because they're half canvassed. The pants are tapered enough (8.25 to 8.5 leg opening) to be considered "slim," but not off-putting and "club-ish" to conservative dressers. Even if you have a slim build, an RLBL suit will look out of place because of the tapered slacks. Suits I definitely wouldn't wear to a business meeting because of the tapered slacks: -RLBL (fully-canvased; heavy shoulder padding can be a drawback if you have square shoulders) -hickey (half-canvassed; high button stances are a drawback to me) -BB Milano (half-canvassed; slimmer than the Fitz) -CC Corneliani (half-canvassd; a lot like RLBL, but without the heavy padding) -Theory (FUSED; I have one as a beater suit; very slim) -John Varvatos (mainline is made in Italy; I have a well fitting canvassed jacket) Other options I have less experience with: -Hackett (half canvassed) -Reiss (half canvassed) -Stile Latino (fully-canvassed; Attolini's slimmer line) -Z Zegna (FUSED, but decent cut) -Suit Supply (little experience with these but they are supposed to be very decent) -Benjamin on eHaberdasher (fully canvassed)

 

[aj_del]

^^ Which 700 USD MTM suit in NY is SF approved ?

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by aj_del

^^ Which 700 USD MTM suit in NY is SF approved ?
Never owned an MTM suit from a proper maker or Indochino. I just think you get what you pay for with Indochino. Construction, fabric, and fit all seem to be below "SF standards"

 

[Nicola]

Not to forget what quality material etc. What 2.5 metres for an average jacket? How much does that alone cost?

Then of course we have all the failed examples of bad MTM often posted here.

 

[acecow]

I'd agree with you on the shirts. I don't even consider buying shirts OTR any more. It's all MTM for me. And yes, I'd rather have inferior materials with better fit and the collars/cuffs that I want. Also, the height of armholes that I require I haven't seen on anything but $400 Isaia Napoli shirts. And at $400 I'd rather get 8 perfectly fitting MTM shirts.

Jackets are different, though. I have found some fantastic deals on suits and jackets. Ermenegildo Zegna, Boglioli, RL and, recently, a $185 jacket from Pringle. All are made from expensive fabrics and fit me very well after necessary, albeit expensive, alterations. None of the MTM jackets I've seen come close to what the respected jacket makers produce. I'm commissioning a suit from a certain MTM maker in China (not Indochino) so maybe that will change my mind. We'll see how it goes.

 

[jrd617]

The examples on the Indochino site are kind of humorous. Roomy shirt collars, lapels that don't lay flat, comically short jackets. It's no wonder that a lot of the jackets come out looking odd. The company doesn't know how they should fit. Garbage in, garbage out. Some of the names crack me up too. "Deal Closer," "The Professor," "The Financial Architect," "The Diplomat," "The Chairman," "The Noveau Socialite," "The Double-O-Seven," "The Tastemaker." WTF?

 

[Loathing]

Originally Posted by jrd617

Some of the names crack me up too. "Deal Closer," "The Professor," "The Financial Architect," "The Diplomat," "The Chairman," "The Noveau Socialite," "The Double-O-Seven," "The Tastemaker." WTF?

Those names are so painful they make me want to kill.