GOT SQUARE SHOULDERS?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, May 14, 2012.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the first diagram shows the changes a custom tailor makes on his drafting system to accommodate the square shoulders.
    the made to measure change would be made on the cutting table.
    see how the gorge is dropped. today the lapel notch rides high. if the gorge were not dropped the notch would be on top of the shoulder.

    in ready to wear, the alteration is done to match those changes made on the pattern.
    plus the collar usually must be shortened.
    in altering, the gorge is not dropped. because the cost in labor would be horrendous.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2012


  2. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Good info thanks.

    Let's say someone has sqaure shoulders but also has a prominent pectoral area. Is the front left unaltered for allowance. Or is it better to create allowance using excess elsewhere, like around the arm openning?

    What about square shoulders with prominent shoulder blades?
     


  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sorry but there is no way to make a ready to wear larger in the chest . there is a way for m2m and custom.
    if a rtw jacket has cloth in the center seam, it could be let out for the blades.
    but the chances that the cloth would move to the sides for the blades is iffy. it might stay in the center.
    once again m2m and custom can be a big help.
     


  4. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

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    I've done this alteration, in fact from a more detailed explanation you gave me in a pm. The two issues I came across were some rippling right at the point where the armhole hits the sleeve-head and some loss of balance in regard to the back length. In the alteration I opened the shoulder seams to only within a centimetre or two of the sleeve-heads (as any further is a headache).

    The loss of back length is obviously due to the lift , but I expected it to be less.

    I'm starting to think it might also have been a shifting-the-shoulder job that was required. I suppose on a garment that's already made up there's only so much alteration can be done before it becomes a pointless rebuild.
     


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