GOT SLOPING SHOULDERS?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, May 16, 2012.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    that first diagram shows the changes that the custom tailor makes on his drafting system to accommodate the sloping shoulders.
    the m2m cutter will make the same changes while on the cutting table.

    in r.t.w. they usually just add more shoulder pads to fill the space. its the most economical way to do it.

    the second diagram shows that there is one expensive alteration that can be done.
    the sleeve must be removed. the collar pulled from the neck hole. then the shoulder seam re sewn as a sloping one.
    the sleeve cap is cut to fit the new armhole, and that cutting depends on the tailors expertness, and a lot of luck. see the arrow.
    a bonus in this, is that the bottom of the armhole comes up. if the amount taken at the top of the armhole is one inch then
    the armhole is one inch closer to a high armhole. dont get excited, because one inch is usually not enough to make it a true
    high armhole. thats because the rtw armholes are so very deep.[​IMG]
     
  2. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the very informative post!
     
  3. connor09

    connor09 Senior member

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    Nice, veryy interesting post, thanks for that.
     
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Just had a question that has got something to do with this thread,

    If the shoulders are altered for more slope, the whole jacket comes up, removing wrinkles that may form at the body below the armpits, right? Because now the shoulders hold the jacket up better.
     
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    right diaz

    sloping shoulders leave an empty space at the outer end of the shoulder.
    when the outer part of the shoulder drops down the cloth flops down also.
    when the shoulder seam is taken in at the outer end and tapered to the,
    neck ti fills that empty space and pulls the cloth up .
    that after the fact problem is an expensive alteration on finished jackets.
    its free when done on the cutting table.

    we are only here once. so have fun now.

    ALEX
     
  6. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    My tailor does it for a quite fair price. I think it will be worth it with a jacket of mine, with the added bonus that the armhole is quite high for RTW and tapering the seam about an inch (which I think is what is needed) will turn it into a high armhole!

    Thanks for the info [​IMG]
     

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