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Got my Black Lapel MTM suit today, please critique fit.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dreamspace, Dec 3, 2012.

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  1. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Got my suit from black lapel today, and to my horror i discovered that I had messed up the measurements on the site, pisses me off to end (triple checking everything from now on). The shoulders ended up 1/2'' larger. I'm 18, and misstyped in 18.5, so they're off.

    Sleeves ended up 1"-1.25" too long, and chest is a bit too roomy(although true to the measurements I gave). Simply put, the jacket feels like it's one or two sizes too large compared to my more slim fitting suits.

    What would you do, re-cut? re-fund?

    Not sure if there's a whole lot I can do about the sleeves, as they have functional buttonholes, and taking them in one inch will put the button really on the edge.

    But FWIW, the company has been fantastic to deal with so far, so no complaints. I messed up the shoulder measurements.

    Right out of the box(sharpening and lightning added, it's much darker in reality):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The suit fits very well for online MTM. Shoulders look fine, even from the back, which is really unusual. There seems to be a bit of extra room in the front part of the jacket when looking at the side shot, but that I think can be fixed (or is the jacket unbuttoned in the side shot?). Too bad about the functional buttonholes, if you can't find a good tailor who can shorten the sleeves from the top, you're gonna need to have it re-made. It's not going to be cheap though. If you find such a tailor, since he's going to remove the sleeves, maybe he could narrow the shoulders a bit for a few bucks extra...
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  3. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    Honestly bro', that looks pretty damn good. I could be picky and say that the shoulders are a tad wide, but they look fine. That's probably as close to perfect as you'll be able to get with online mtm. The sleeves are long. That's the only thing that really stands out. Enjoy.
     
  4. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Did you figure out your own measurements? It fits unusually well for online mtm.
     
  5. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Dude you already posted in the tailors thread...no need to go bonkers like this.
     
  6. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'll add a +1 to the "it looks really good" comment. Seriously, don't sweat the shoulder, this looks great, especially for online MTM. Sleeves are long, but you already know that...
     
  7. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Yeah, made this thread first, then found the tailors thread. Guess searching is a good thing after all.

    Took all the measurements myself, pretty straight forward.
     
  8. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    +1 for the shoulder width looking fine.
     
  9. ferragamo2012

    ferragamo2012 Member

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    I think the suit looks really good and only needs minor alterations (other than the sleeves, I would definitely order it with fake buttons to avoid this). I would get it remade because of the sleeves, unless you can find a tailor that can shorten them.


    How is the quality of the suit? How would you say it compares to something like Hugo Boss. Is the chest slightly big because you measured yourself incorrectly or just the way they cut it and is that the slim fit?
     
  10. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Black label is (or at least used to be) made by Caruso, which is definitely higher quality than Boss.
     
  11. ferragamo2012

    ferragamo2012 Member

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    It's black lapel not label. It's one of the online MTM (like an Indochino but supposedly much better)
     
  12. Bexcellence

    Bexcellence Senior member

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    looks just like an OTR. Am I missing anything here? [​IMG]
     
  13. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Before there's any confusion, this is a suit from www.blacklapel.com , not Ralph Lauren Black Label :)

    Well, I really like the feel of the fabric and the detailing, that's all I can say about the quality so far.

    All black lapel suits are by default half-canvassed (this navy, without vest, is 449$), compared to the fused Hugo Boss suits. For a 200$ Upgrade one can get the suit fully canvassed.
    I own two Boss suits, one Hugo that's very slim but has crap material, and one Boss with Loro Piana that's much nicer. The fabric on this suit nicer than the HB with LP fabric, it's very soft. Not as heavy as the Super 150 on my navy RLPL suit, but just as soft in touch I'd say.

    The shoulder padding on this can be compared to HB suits. It's not as soft as I'd like, but I'm sure one could request this when ordering the suit.

    I measured my chest to be 42" with a tape, and this one came out as 42", but I'm used to more fitting suits, so I guess that's why it feels a bit more roomy than expected.
    There are three cuts...slim, tailored and regular. I went with the slim.

    Also, I had 3 extra options that I requested (for free):
    - 3.5" lapels
    - 1 inch lower button stance
    - Side adjusters on pants

    For the money paid (549), I really do enjoy the suit. For that price, you're getting a wool blend here in Norway. A suit of this quality, from more famous brands, would probably cost me 1500$ over here. Very unfortunate pricing on clothes here in Norway!
     
  14. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Whoops, my bad!
     
  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yes, online MTM usually turns out worse than OTR.
     
  16. ferragamo2012

    ferragamo2012 Member

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    how are the armholes? What did you decide to do with the suit?
     
  17. kylepw

    kylepw Member

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    I have quite a lot of experience with BL and remakes. They are terrific at helping you out and I've learned a lot in the process.

    Here's what I see/recommend if you choose to do a remake on the jacket:

    1) You have significant collar gapping going on in the back and on the right side of the jacket collar. If you remake the jacket with "hunched" posture, not "normal" posture, that should fix that.

    2) Try bear hugging the air. Is your chest tight or do you still have extra fabric there? I'd measure down accordingly. Looks like you have room to go down a little.

    3) Sleeves should be shortened an inch or so (measure to top of where thumb meets your hand).

    4) I know others said your shoulders are fine, but I think they should be shortened 0.5" like you said.

    5) The width of the end of your sleeve looks too big. I'd remeasure your wrists again with their videos.

    Other than that, looking great! Good luck.
     
  18. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    I've had tailors shorten suits from the top and they came out great so you can probably find one if you look hard enough.

    As for the functional vs. fake buttonholes, I'd order without any holes, but with the ability to have functional buttonholes added. More tailors can make those well than fixing sleeves from the shoulder.
     
  19. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    They've ordered a remake, 5-6 days ago or so.

    1" Shorter sleeves, .5" less over shoulders, 1" in on chest/waist/hips. and arms a bit smaller too.
    FWIW, I had the "hunched" shoulder option on the original, so and on the remake too, we'll see how it turns out.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  20. table21

    table21 Senior member

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    Its kind of funny but I looked at the pic's you posted and I want to get a suit like that. I checked out there web site and not one of the models is wearing something I like. I love the the size and balance on the lapels of the suit you have there. It really makes it look good. I hope the remake comes out that way as well.
     

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