Good site for alterations?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by j, Dec 16, 2004.

  1. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Feb 17, 2002
    Seattle, WA
    I am trying to find a site that explains how to do relatively simple to advanced alterations on RTW garments, mostly jackets. For some reason this is proving the most difficult search I've ever done, and I'd conservatively estimate I've done about one trillion searches on the net by this point. There is endless information about pattern alterations (for "new construction"), but I want to fix some OTR stuff I haven't worn because it doesn't fit just how I want it to. In particular, right now, I would like to know how to go about taking in a back seam and the side seams on a jacket, all the way from step one, "cut open the lining specifically HERE" to step whatever, "sew the lining back together in this manner, press here, etc." The immediate problem I'm having is that the back seam of the lining is machine sewn, and if I cut it open there will be no way to put it back like it was. I'm thinking I am supposed to rip the bottom seam and turn the whole thing inside out, but I don't want to mess it up, even though this jacket is just a project at this point. Help. Thanks. J.

  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mar 23, 2002
    London, UK
    I don't think you'll find the book you are looking for. Essentially altering the pattern and the made up jacket is the same task (take in or enlarge at this particular point). How do you go about in practice with a finished jacket depends on the way it has been constructed.

    Undoing the hem of the lining is certainly one way to go. Factory made suits are often made inside out during the entire construction and are eventually turned through a small hole in the sleeve lining. Telltale sign is a butt seam inside one of the sleeves (usually the right one). That's where the suit got closed as the very final step.

    With more experience you will make your own decisions. You might be happy to close the lining again by hand stitching, or you prefer to put it under the machine.

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