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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thanks for the list Timo. And nice to see u here.
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Timo, why stay away from those two cuts?

    As far as KW mtm...I think that anyone in the process of figuring things out should stay away from online mtm for large purchases for at least a year after they find their groove. Too much that could go wrong.
     


  3. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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    As I understand, Rudals is working in a rather CBD environment. The Havana, with its patch pockets is rather casual. Also, the button stance is really (too) high). The Washington is generally nice, but the fat peak lapels and the ticket pocket might also be out of place in the CBD world.
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Sounds like the Washington might be acceptable. I just wud like to see the look in their eyes wheb they see a peak lapel.
     


  5. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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    In that case, the Washington might be an interesting option. The cut will probably fit you very well.
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rudals

    I'd definitely ask about MTM when you are there. Look at the fabric books they have, all from known Italian mills. The jackets can be full canvas, use horn buttons, etc.

    I'm guessing that you will not be that hard to fit, actually, and so long as you know what you want, you can do pretty well. The first one won't be perfect but will be good and as good as what you would have gotten fit wise from NM, and at at least half the cost. This is assuming my assumption about you is right, but I think you have a typical good Asian build [​IMG]. Plus Despos didn't indicate any known issues from your pic, and he is usually picky (will note dropped shoulders, lower hips, etc).

    Remember, their MTM specialists are not tailors, so if you have some specific concerns, come back here before committing. But if one of their OTR jackets fits you well, you can work from there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    BTW: the jacket I posted in denim a few pages back is SS MTM. From their basic fabric book (which is cheaper, but was my first try). I'm inclined to get a second one when I can, in a more fancy fabric.

    The only thing I would change is dropping the length and button stance about an inch and the sleeve about 1/4 inch (fabric rides up). But they got the back, shoulders, sleeve pitch, waist etc. Trust me, it looks clean (there are pics in the tailor's thread somewhere).
     


  8. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    Getting a custom shirt is really not that complicated, and far less complicated than getting pants or a jacket done. Realistically most true MTM shops won't even provide a fitting: you'll get your measurements taken and the shirt will be delivered. And even if you do request a fitting, the tweaks will be minor. There is just not a lot you can do with the simple construction of a shirt. However, I do think the process will address the issues you're seeing in these shirts. So long as you're realistic about the end-product (i.e. don't expect Anna Matuozzo-like results from a local tailor) I think you'll find it an enjoyable experience. And, if you don't, well then you have a custom shirt that can act as a model for an online MTM outfit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Nice! Thank you TweetyProf! Let me see what they have to offer. Then I just might snap and go bespoke at Mr. FIELDS.
     


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Several reputable tailors in my area have MTM.
    @AJL If you can find such a tailor in your area, I think you could do quite well. Tell them what you want, your concerns. They'll take measurements and have the shirt made elsewhere. And if it doesn't come out perfect, they might just tailor for free or a small charge (e.g. adjust sleeve, take in waist).
     


  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cheers.

    Even if you go bespoke, trying on lots of fits at SS will help you be more informed in that conversation with a bespoke tailor. At this stage, there is no substitute for trying on suits, lots of them, in different cuts.

    And because I'm not from DC, who is Mr Fields? Was that the one Umbel got his trousers made from?

    OK, this thread is kind of addicting, I don't know why.

    I'm turning off my browser now and working, three minutes before 9AM.
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    mimo, I guarantee you Rudals will be much more likely to find something to his liking at a .com than going to physical locations. Sure it's a pain in the ass until you understand your sizing and measurements, and there are a lot of returns along the way, but it's certainly can be done and I don't think that it should be written off from the get-go.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    That's true, but online takes a lot more time. When I first started dressing more classically, I went to all the suit stores around town, trying on dozens of different suits, blazers and trousers, in equally as many cuts and fabrics. It'll probably take you a day or two, but you'll very quickly develop an eye for what looks good. You simply cannot get that kind of hands-on exposure in such a short period online. I still make mistakes when shopping online, something which simply doesn't happen when I'm in a physical store.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I now have enough brown ties...for now.
    [​IMG]
     


  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    When I started I went only to Saks, that's the only store like that. Well and Palacio de Hierro but I got some Armani's at 50% off so Ithought I was getting a hyper mega cool suit. Now I buy from Spoo and I regret not knowing about him earlier. All shirts and pants from Luxire. I have spent 1/4 of the money I spent at the time i bought at Saks and I think I dress a bit better now. [​IMG]
     


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