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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    @The Noodles buy according to your means and financial priorities but make sure whatever you buy looks good on you (that's the most important point and you've been educated enough to know what works for your body type) when you need special pieces add the formosa. No regular suit wearing person on this thread wears Formosas daily and I mean nobody. :)

    @Coxsackie, there is a lot of trash on yoox no doubt but you can pickup nice brands at steep discounts and if it doesn't work just return with no hassle. The extremely tall models often distort looks, I often figure short jackets out by looking at the distance between the edge of the sleeves and the edge of the jacket. There are lots of threads dedicated to yoox.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2014


  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

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    Curious about this comment, and just curious about Formosa in general. Sartoria Formosa is a Neapolitan tailoring house which makes suits under contract for NMWA. I imagine that the NMWA suits are designed according to specs laid down for them by Greg, perhaps in collaboration with their own designers. The result is certainly a handsome suit with a number of SF-friendly features such as nice fabrics, 3-roll-2 lapels, wide-ish lapels with a beautiful roll, spalla camicia shoulders and so forth. All of this makes for a fairly up-market suit, but Greg has somehow controlled the price so that the final product is great value. All of this I glean from my readings on this board.

    Now let's talk for a sec about price. OK, these little beauties go for around the $2.2K mark. Which is more than most punters are prepared to pay for a suit, but not a lot of dough if the suit is really good - which these suckers apparently are.

    So, you stump up a bit of extra coin for a really good suit. Well constructed from fine, hopefully fairly durable fabric. You're going to get a couple of hundred wears out of this piece, easy. So why wouldn't you wear it every day? Only reason I can think of, is that you don't want to turn up to work wearing the same clothes every day. But plenty of blokes have a rotation of only two or three suits. So, it's actually entirely realistic to build a three-suit rotation of Formosas - assuming they suit your body shape and you like the styling - and stay within a reasonably realistic suiting budget. OK, you won't buy them all at once. But it can be done.

    In other words...

    It's entirely possible for someone to wear Formosas daily.

    Am I missing something here?
     


  3. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Noodles knows his situation best so he can speak to that. He was going to buy from Murl and tire issues changed his decision so just putting 2k for clothing on a fairly regular basis may not be where is at or where he wsnts to be and who knows if he is saving to buy his wife a business or buy himself an investment property etc. I would love him to wear Formosas but he said it will be his last.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2014


  4. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

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    I shoulda bort the damn thing.
     


  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    This is all correct but I'd like to clarify one thing. Formosa developed its RTW (standard sized bespoke, really - Dirnelli calls it "bespoke RTW" but there isn't a good word to describe a RTW suit that is entirely made by hand like a bespoke suit, in a small sartoria and not a factory, because there is no other like that) on its own and is based on its house cut. I loved the cut and decided to go ahead with this idea when I tried on a sample jacket that was made without ever seeing me and that I liked on me better than most of my bespoke stuff...

    I didn't give any input as to the cut, size of the lapels, roll, buttoning point, etc... I would have never come up with such a great result.

    What I do when we spec the suits with Gennaro and Dionisio is pick (a) fabric (always from bespoke cloth bunches of the best mills, we never use fabric used in the RTW trade, only what you'd find in a bespoke tailor shop), (b) pocket style, (c) shoulder expression and (d) lining. Everything else is their "design"
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you Greg for making such a product available to us. Full on bespoke will never be an option for me until the kids are done with college (and perhaps not even them), but I hope to dip into Formosa in the near future, especially one of the MTOs.
     


  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    The Formosa suits are awesome. I was fortunate to be able to check out them out at the spring NMWA trunk show. I unfortunately find myself preferring a shorter jacket at 5ft7 than even the Formosa shorts for MTO would allow; otherwise, I would be all over this stuff. When calculating price, don't forget to subtract the tailoring credit and SF discount (so around $350 total), which brings them down to around $1,850.
     


  8. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Distinguished Member

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    NMWA's Formosa suits look great and they seem to fit some people almost right out of the box, and if they fitted me that way then I'd be tempted. Only I know that they won't. And I can't see that I'd want to spend that much on RTW (however much handwork is involved), when the price is about 1.5 times the price my tailor would charge me for a 2-piece with equivalent fabrics. I could get a three-piece or a 2-piece with an extra pair of trousers for the price. So I can't really justify it.
     


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Solid excuse.
     


  10. PCK1

    PCK1 Distinguished Member

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    Except your tailor isn't Formosa...
     


  11. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Distinguished Member

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    Yeah, but neither is Formosa the tailor of the people who are buying RTW Formosa.

    And the stuff I get from my tailor will fit me perfectly and the process is something I value and enjoy. All for less money.

    So I'm not quite sure what your argument is. I've already said I would buy Formosa in a flash if it would fit me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2014


  12. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    Are you sure the short wouldn't fit you? Was there a short at the trunk show for you to try? (NMWA doesn't stock any shorts in house). You've seen pics of my gun check SC, no? At 29" I wouldn't dare go any shorter, and you know I'm approx the same height as you.
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    Yeah. I didn't try on the short, but I find 28-29 inches to be the range I am comfortable with and really have no desire to go above 29 inches. A 40S would come in at around 30 inches from what I can ascertain, so that's about an inch longer than I'd like. It's possible that I have a slightly shorter torso even at the same height, so maybe this accounts for the difference.
     


  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Your tailor is C&D, right? I asked them about a suit in flannel and the quote was over $2200, so about $400 more expensive than Formosa. The guy was also wearing a waistcoat that was about 2 sizes too small, so I was a little hesitant commissioning anything from them. Do you have any full length pics of your suits?
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014


  15. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    Would appreciate help, gentlemen.

    I have a job interview at a financial institute. I'm applying for a post as a financial investment manager. Knowing the clothing culture in Stockholm, I suspect the people conducting the interview will have ill fitting suits (and shiny ties in windsor knots with black derbies). Nontheless, it's a conservative (work) environment. What would be appropriate to wear? I'm thinking midnight blue suit in a classic cut, white shirt, navy reppe tie (and white linen pocket square) with black cap toes. Maybe a faint pin stripe navy suit instead of the solid midnight suit? To much cliché given it's finance? My only concern is that I may send out the wrong signals by out dressing those conducting the interview. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014


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