Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Sigh. Navy is already covered in different fabrics and cuts, I just want an alternative to navy for the evening and no we are never done with our wardrobes.

    Nobody has really given me an aesthetic reason not to go for it outside of personal preference.
     
  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    You are the one who wants to buy the thing. What combinations do you see where it would look even as good as navy? I mean, I can tell you that navy just looks better with pretty much everything (because it does) but you can dismiss this as personal preference.

    A lighter gray odd jacket can work okay with tans, browns and creams, but charcoal is really stark and hard to pair. There's a reason you see a lot more charcoal suits than odd trousers.
     
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    For the evening a midnight blue jacket will be better than charcoal, and even better if it's a silk or mohair wool blend, or perhaps a nice cashmere.
     
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Well, both really. Its based on my personal preference for aesthetics. All clothing choices are really aesthetic choices imo. Even staple items, we buy them because we feel they are aesthetically optimal.

    That being said, I just dont love the color charcoal, it does not do it for me. It always just look dead. They have no visual interest to me as they are so dark. The only dark ensemble I like is a black tie rig, and that is because a full tux look is just so sharp and crisp. But outside of that, really dark stuff always feels so drab and boring and visually lacking, for me. I think a mid or dark but not charcoal gray is always better. And that is even for suits.

    As far as trousers and SCs, not only do I not like them, I think that maybe there is one or two total fits I have seen here that I liked that employed those items. They pretty much always look less than ideal, or just not good, to me.

    Stressing the "me" here because I know not everyone feels this way.


    If the navy SC is not the ideal navy SC, then that should be your number one goal. And yes, get rid of the metal buttons now.
     
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    This is where we differ. We have different philosophies for dressing up. I don't dress for optimization otherwise I'll end up in uniforms (not that it is a bad thing. just not my thing). I dress for fun and variety so just a combo working is good enough for me and I have listed some colors (namely olive, brown, tan and mid grey) and the question is if they work for the context I'd like to use the jacket i.e evening.


    That's a nice alternative but I haven't seen a midnight blue fabric in fall/winter weight. Any recommendation? And will it really look any different from charcoal?
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2014
  6. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    X-Post from WAYWRN. I went with a brown grenadine since it seemed the optimal choice here, but what do you guys think about an orange/rust ancient madder with this fit? I'd rock a different square if I changed the tie.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Brown was the right choice. The rust I think is ok color wise, but scale wise, it might be too close to the SC. Hard to say without seeing them together.

    I usually prefer a check SC with a solid tie. If it is a neat, the pattern has to be clearly larger than the check of the SC imo. In your tie, the larger circles may be larger than the checks, but not by a lot, and the smaller ones look to be about the same size as the checks. I think they would be too busy together.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2014
  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I understand your POV better with this explanation but I feel their is a place for really dark and drab stuff like in the evenings. I still own 2 black shirts for a reason :D


    It's not a popular choice but my mind is now made and I'll be getting one. Thanks guys for the input, I'm not trying to be disagreeable I just see a different context for charcoal
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2014
  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I'm not sure I fully dress for optimization, but I am a lot less likely to want something that serves a similar function to something else but does not do so as well just for the sake of variety. There is definitely a bit of optimization there, I'll admit, but it's really not my sole consideration.

    I could be wrong, but I am guessing you want a charcoal odd jacket as an alternative to navy to wear in the evening due to the darkness of the fabric on the theory that it would be a bit more formal than say a tweed jacket. If that's the case, a navy blazer is always going to look a bit more formal due to cultural associations that say a navy blazer sort of bridges the gap between most odd jackets and a suit. You can potentially wear a charcoal jacket as part of a monochrome look with light grey trousers to preserve some of the slickness of a blazer and greys look in the evening (tan trousers and olive trousers will create more of a weird California tux effect and you lose the slickness). I think the navy blazer will look better every time due to a mix of aesthetics and personal preference but won't say that the monochrome look is always bad. If I'm wrong about your motivation for wanting the charcoal jacket, then I guess I think there are a lot of great tweeds and other odd jacket materials that are lighter (Moonbeam comes to mind) that look better and are more useful.

    If you do get a charcoal jacket, I strongly recommend getting one with patch pockets at the very least to make it look less like an orphaned suit jacket. Let me try to post some pictures to illustrate my point a bit later today as well (I also have a grey herringbone jacket in a midweight wool/cashmere that I think would be more versatile if it's up your alley).
     
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Late to the game but it's the orphan look of the charcoal that would bother me. And worse on top than on bottom.

    @kulata why not just get a dinner jacket or something more "evening". Some of the Eidos stuff might actually suit you quite well, I think. More expensive of course, but then wait for the post season drop. I'm sure the dinner jackets are going to hang around longer.
     
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Glad my explanation made it better not worse lol.

    This may sound crazy, but if you want something dark for evenings, Id go black velvet. @unbelragazzo has an awesome SC like that that he wore to a meetup. Hundred times better than any charcoal SC for evening wear imo.

    In any case, Ive never been an advoctae of telling people not to buy what they like and makes them feel happy, but on the other hand, I have never been one to say that because someone likes something and it makes them happy, they are excused from being told that it looks bad in the opinions of detractors. Its a fair tradeoff no? : )
     
  12. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help so far as I plan out my purchases this year for my wardrobe make over for the new career. I feel like I’m off to a decent start with a plan for my first 5 ties.

    I’m moving my focus into planning my shirt purchases now. I’m looking at getting 3 to 5 shirts. I’ve got about 10-15 shirts that will have to be good enough for now while I gradually replace them with quality ones.

    I am thinking about going the MTM route as where I’m living I don’t have a lot of access to quality RTW stuff. I do have access to a decent tailor and labor is cheap.

    I was hoping to be in the $100 preferably less if possible.

    I was looking at Proper or Modern Tailor.

    I’ll be flying back to the US for a wedding in Dec and will be in Denver and was maybe thinking about Ratio because I could get measured by the in person.

    http://www.ratioclothing.com/

    Also, I have a good friend in Bangkok that could work with a tailor to get one of my shirts copied Maybe http://www.tailoronten.com/

    Any recommendations or inputs on what to do?
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    That jacket is actually midnight blue, but yes, it's awesome.
     
  14. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    +1 on black velvet. I wear this pretty often when I go out. It's not very SF MC compatible, but it looks great.
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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