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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Cultural thing or is it just his way? I look at it more like - how does someone think they can do something like that?
     
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  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ POW may be somewhat FU from a true CBD standpoint, but the Formosa you have is a more subtle POW. I believe the lack of a colored overcheck makes it quieter than it might otherwise be.
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I sometimes wear shiny black full brogue derbies with a suit. But I consider it a deliberate rule break. And I also wear spectators and other oddities, so whatever. But ironically, I'm usually perceived as dressing more formally than everyone else. I think there can be a consonance even when the rules are not followed to the letter: for instance, on a rare cool day a few weeks ago, I wore a brown flannel three piece with shell budapesters. Yes, derbies with a three piece suit, yet to me the mix was perfectly consistent because of the tones and weights.

    Anyway, the thing about tweed and linen: although that is broadly true, the key word is texture. I have a dark brown linen jacket that looks quite autumnal, and that I'm as likely to pair with grey wool worsted trousers as linen (or jeans), and a 11oz windowpane tweed that I wear three seasons, sometimes with linen/cotton mix trousers. So there is some crossover: for me it's more about the tone and texture than the actual weave or fibre content.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
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  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Agree with you that it is mostly a textural thing. And indeed there's linen that's hevay enough to be worn in autumn. But, that is for jackets and trousers, not shirts. What we were talking about in this instance was the combination of a light weight linen shirt with a very heavy tweed.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Many people (abetted by the knuckleheads writing for GQ and Esquire) now think that wingtips are more formal, so who knows where we'll end up on the question of formality?

    As you allude to in your last post, Elio, linen itself is not seasonal. The weave and weight determine its use. A heavy, tightly woven linen shirt works just as well with tweed as cotton. Although I do think that a coarser weave (provided it isn't so loose as to be sheer) has sufficient textural interest to hold up against tweed, too.
     
  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I didn't even know that shirts made of heavy linen existed? Isn't that uncomfortable to wear? Seems to me that linen always feels a bit coarse to the skin compared with fine cotton. One of the main reasons why, despite living in the perfect climate for it, I hardly ever wear linen shirts. Or maybe I'm just a pussy, of course...
     
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  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I want there to be more heavy weight shirting linen because I think texturally they are great with tweed, and at one point historically linen was the standard shirt fabric anyway.

    Also I'll get better photos but I was alone in a hotel and will be fairly often I think. :( gotta work travel a lot lately.

    I think black shoes and items except SWD and ties are better sleek. As such I think oxford brown mahogany or burgundy are all great but black is better as Wholecut, single monk, or Chelsea, and if oxford then no broguing thoughts?

    Like in most cases in cbd you wear black shoes you want it sharp and formal, as opposed to character filled brown with an uneven patina IMO.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    FIL: Hi Noodles, I don't care what you like. But I will force you to buy this suit because I want you to have it. And you have to pay for it too.


    I mean... if he's buying then whatever, but you'd think he'd atleast let you pick it then lol.
     
  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Ah, didn't think of that. You're right of course. But that was before cotton became widely available, isn't it? When that happened, the switch to cotton was rapidly made, AFAIK. Isn't it true that cotton only became widely available after the American Civil War when cotton production was promoted as a way out of the economic crisis that the War had caused? (I'm sure some people here with a background in history can correct me if I'm wrong).
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Oh I see. Still, I would go there too; I don't always want a heavy shirt under a heavy jacket, and again, I've definitely worn a coarser linen fibre shirt under a tweed odd jacket casually.

    I suspect, as is often the case here, we might be talking our way around a similar conclusion.
     
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  11. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Cotton's emergence as a "global' fabric pre-dates the Civil War by a couple of decades. By the 1830s, everyone from the slaves who picked it to the merchant classes of Britain and the United States were wearing it, and it was the dominant textile in the western world by the 1850s. After the Civil War global production spiked, as a consequence of the textile mills of France, Britain, and the northern US seeking alternative sources to the American South.

    I try not to mix work with play, but if anyone's interested in the emergence of global capitalism and the pivotal role of cotton in that process, two books just came out that treat this topic in depth: Edward Baptist's The Half Has Never Been Told and Sven Beckert's Empire of Cotton. Beckert's is more ambitious, Baptist's more readable.
     
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  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    As Isolation said, linen was the standard shirt fabric until fairly recent times in modern history. I always wear undershirts so for me the shirt is more a style thing I guess.
     
  13. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    Thanks!

    — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

    I have 1 pair of black shoes … Alden 907 straight-tip oxfords. I know it's not correct, but more often than not, I wear them with an SC/trouser combo when going out with the wife for dinner and drinks. However, if it looks really bad, I'll opt for something else. I like the thought of the "black shoes after 6pm" thing and like the formality in following some of these old rules. If I insist on wearing black, I'm sure you all agree that a pair of casual black shoes would be more appropriate, but what would be the best style? A plain toe derby, a loafer, or something else? Also, I'm open to the fact that I'm completely nutz. :)
     
  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
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  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodlers

    I'm going to post this in B&S tomorrow but thought I would throw these ties out here first. Mods, sorry if this is not ok with SF rules, you can delete. PM with questions; I'll respond as soon as I can.

    Edit: UPDATED

    CONUS only. Add shipping flat rate 1st class, $5.75. Paypal Gift. If you buy two or more, I will cover shipping. No holds or returns. Shipping on payment to paypal verified address.
    These are all about standard length though note measurements. I’m 6 feet with not a very long torso, and they all tie fine in length for normal rise pants (e.g. Howard Yount). If that’s a concern let me know. I can take more pics if needed. Please note width and length.

    [​IMG]

    Borrelli Burgundy Neat, small diamonds/squares (3.75 inches wide, 60 inches long) SOLD
    6-fold tie in good condition. Some slight wisps off the small squares in front which you can see but not noticeable. More wisps on the back bottom. A quick snip should deal with them. Thick, ties a beautiful dimple. Note width. I don't wear suits, so no use for this one.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Drake’s navy striped stubby soft shantung (3 inch, 7.5cm wide; 61 inches long) SOLD
    I love this tie, purchased from Mr. Porter, but it is narrower than I would like and I’m replacing it with a 3.5 cm striped gren from Exquisite Trimmings. It seems long, but I haven’t had a problem with it for length (i.e. narrow blade portion being longer, though that is the style of our time). I’ve used a DFIH as well as FIH depending on collar.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Drake’s indigo raw silk (3.15 inches wide, 8cm; 59 inches long) SOLD
    Last season. Beautiful tie, unused. Blue that is slightly purple. Untapped, hand rolled edges

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Drake’s navy with blue micropindots (3.15 inches wide, 8cm; 60 inches long) $60
    Last season. Worn once or twice.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Panta denim blue linen 6 fold (3.5 inches wide; 60 inches long) $45

    From the collection of NY Islander. Slightly slubby linen denim-like fabric. A substantial tie that would do better with jackets more casual than I own.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
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  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Sorry I didn't explain better.
    Here is how I ended up with my wedding suit. The father inlaw offered to buy me a suit as a gift. Now, I didn't want to go tailorable or bnt bcus I didn't want to take advantage. So I just went to some discount store and bought it for around $800. I could not say no nor could I go all out and get a real nice suit. He will probably offer to buy me a suit again but this time I can refuse.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
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  17. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just to be clear, tailorable has suits for around 800,000 won.

    Also, I need to let you know about shirts.

    Also also, I may ask you to be a tie gopher. Check your Kakao, man!

    (Also also also, we just ate at a Korean restaurant for the first time since leaving Korea. It was the best reviewed in the city. It was...underwhelming. Papa and Mama Claghorn loved it. Mrs. Claghorn and I were less impressed).
     
  18. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    What are things to look for in good Korean restaurants? I live in a neighborhood with a lot of Koreans and there are dozens of Korean restaurants. Some of them I really like a lot. But of course, having never been to SK, I don't know how they compare to the real thing. I usually go to the places where many Koreans go themselves.
     
  19. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I don't think it's overcheck, or lack thereof, which determines the FU-ness of a POW suit. There are many other factors including the cut and the nature of the material. Normally one would associate POW with a soft, flannel-like hand. But my one and only POW suit is in a super-180's worsted, very summery and drapey, with peak lapels. all of which makes it fairly out-there, despite the lack of an over-check.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I really do like this one, but I'd also like to own a slightly more traditional POW. Noodles' Formosa is superb, but I like this one from B&T as well:

    [​IMG]

    Seen here on The Master:

    [​IMG]

    Meeting with @incontro in two days, and I'm kind of torn between a POW or a blue-grey donegal (NOBD-style) commission. Thoughts?

    (addendum: looking at the above shots, I just realised that there is zero lapel bowing on this Caruso suit. So it's possible! Maybe I should wear this on Tuesday...)
     
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  20. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Good Chinese restaurants in the same street.


    [​IMG]
     
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