1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7: A Made-to-Measure suit from Lanieri

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    The 6th auction of the year is for a Made-to-measure suit from Lanieri. Please bid often and generously here

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    He is.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    :slayer:
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    @Mr. Six

    This is partially true. But you have some technical phrases confused.

    Worsted is a type of wool thread. Woolen is another type.

    There are both worsted and woolen flannels. Worsted flannels will actually last longer than woolen flannels. I only knew this distinction a few months ago: http://putthison.com/post/23674835650/worsted-vs-woolen-flannels-i-love-wool-flannel

    Also, there are many tightly woven non-flannel worsted sutings. (Often plain weave or twill) These will last longer than any flannel (worsted or woolen)

     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014


  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

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    ^ I was shorthanding. On the assumption that the flannel used in the suit is a woolen, I focused on what seemed like the important distinction: woolen flannel v. worsted wool suiting. I don't disagree with you at all and appreciate you expanding on the issue for the benefit of the thread!
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    My MO from now on for B&T is to get one every trip. I'll send the fabric ahead, show up at the beginning of my trip for a basted fitting. Pop in before going for a forward fitting. Have them ship it when they are done.
     


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Any Despos to mix things up?
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Operative word for noodles would be non-flannel vs flannel

    I think the takeaway for Noodles is that the following durability/shine-prone scale exists, but a flannel suit of any kind is worth getting, especially that Formosa:

    worsted non-flannel suiting > worsted flannel > woolen flannel
     


  8. TM79

    TM79 Distinguished Member

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    How are you defining durability? I guess what I am asking is ...

    Let's say a person wears each type of fabric once per week to a normal desk job and we assume that this person does all the correct things to take care of their garments - are you able to quantify just how fast some break down versus others?
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Durability = tendency to shine

    Worsted is better at avoiding this state than woolen. In this sense, a pair of worsted pants will last longer than woolen flannels if you're constantly moving around

    @jerrybrowne hasn't this been your experience?


     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014


  10. TM79

    TM79 Distinguished Member

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    Sorry, let me rephrase ... that part I knew.

    What I am trying to ask is when the shine would set in (approximation of course) for the various types of fabrics, using a once per week wearing as the measuring stick since that's pretty easy to work with.

    e.g. you'd get a good year from fabric A but more like only 8 months for fabric B, etc. etc.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Not sure, maybe we should start a series called iGent Mythbusters? :)

    Who wants to send me some worsted and woolen flannel pants to scientifically test? Edmorel? Chorse? GDL? Kent Wang?

    TM79 will need a few pairs too.


     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Really? :(


    Sounds great! I want to do that. How often do you plan on that being?


    I think it is about twice the price.

    ---

    As far as durability goes, it's something I'm always very nervous of, and therefore I try not to wear any suit more than a few times a month.
     


  13. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    It's not just the shining problem: I've ripped the seam of the seat in two pairs of flannel trousers because the fabric was worn out. Those were not old...
     


  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    When do you go?
    Sounds like we can have a reunion in Seoul!

    Now you got me all worried!
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014


  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Who made them?
     


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