Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Jrd, I think we should give you the custom title "Forum Curator"--you seem to know exactly where all the essential wisdom can be found. I wish I'd seen the "On Pants" thread six months ago!
Watch he doesn't bust out a Skid Fu high kick on you, Murl
(Just google'd "voxsartoria trousers". I wonder if all tailoring questions may be answered by googling "voxsartoria <item of clothing>"?)
I sent him a text just to make sure he saw it!
Random question: I kinda want a washed cotton K Jacket from Boglioli for spring. Should I bother to have the sleeves shortened to show cuff, or just roll with the ~.5'' too long surgeons cuffs?
Iso, not a good fit mate, sorry. Do read the SF pants threads, kindly provided by others. I had a similar disappointing results with several new custom trousers too. Fortunately, my HK tailor has agreed to remake them all from scratch and we're starting over again. Sometimes, good things do take time, especially if you don't have budget for top notch SR or HK tailors. But even the Show US Your Chan thread features many underwhelming fits too. Keep at it, your persistence will be rewarded, eventually.
@isolation, I won't rehash other critiques of the tailoring on your trousers. Frankly if you post a couple pairs and make some adjustments based on some of the comments you receive, you can probably get something better looking for the price from Luxire. My one comment is that you really should consider trousers that are a bit fuller in the leg. I think that with your large drop and the dramatic waist suppression you go for, fuller trousers could be an effective counterpoint. The dramatic waist suppression plus dramatic tapering is just too much IMO.
@Monkeyface point taken.
Crickey, it's been a rough couple of days for me at SF. So, I've decided to heed your advice and go back into lurking and learning mode for a while. I will continue my SF sartorial learning over on the various Tailors threads, as I would very much like to learn more about their craft -- to become a better client. I figure it would be helpful to learn more about their language. So, I can better communicate with my HK tailor. Especially, as I'm trying to refine my pattern and/or new fits now. My own humble wardrobe refresh project is still very much a work in progress and a labour of love.
Hopefully, I will finally have some WAYWRN worthy fits to debut within 3-6 months!
P.S. Thanks to the patrons of this thread @Claghorn & @The Noodles (we miss you!) for the learning opportunity, much appreciated. Gahm-sah-hahm-ni-da!
Cotton should tend to wrinkle. You might want to wear it and see how the sleeves look after a day
Noodles is going to poop on Murl? :/
Thanks. Yeah I'm sure there are specific reasons why my trousers don't look good, I just don't know what they are. I think you're right about fuller trousers.
Like I said I'm just not quite seeing what's wrong with them if someone can explain to me more specifically what's wrong and why it'd be helpful. Even reading the pants thread and seeing Vox's trousers and being able to see and appreciate that they are amazing I can't say that I know specifically what's wrong with mine.
Luxire is an option I guess, if I can't manage to get what I want I might try them instead. Thing is they are actually more expensive so if it's possible for me to improve on my trousers from dream that's preferable for me, because I'm still convinced they are pretty good for the amount they cost.
I am but a neophyte, but I enjoy theorycrafting a lot, so here goes (take everything I say with a grain of salt though)
The difference between yours and Vox's is that while his is completely straight, yours is full of creases and folds all along the length. The reason would be that whereas Vox's trousers hang from his hips, yours sticks to your legs. Look at your legs - they aren't made of straight lines, they are formed by curves, from arse to thigh, at the knees, at the calves. If you try to make a "fitted" trouser without using skintight lycra, all you're going to get are creases where the curves occur. Rather than creating a long, smooth line, it breaks into puddles of folded cloth. At this point, the corrective course would be to (counterintuitively) widen the entire leg so that it hangs from the hips rather than bunching up everywhere.
I don't like those pants at all because they remind me way too much of the SNL skit about mom jeans. Well, I don't like them for a few other reasons but that's a big one.
How much should trousers go in at the waistband? It seems that mine curve in too much, but everyone's talking about wearing it at true waist, doesn't that mean it will necessarily go in at the waist since it's thinner than the hips? Unless you wear braces that is.
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