Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Well, the thing is, your tailor should know this. If he doesn't know it, and you don't know it either, you're better off with ready to wear trousers than with bespoke.

    Going bespoke without knowing much is fine if you go to a reputable tailor such as A&S or Steed or whatever. They know how something should fit, and they'll guide you with the choice of fabric and other details. You can walk in there without knowing anything about classic menswear and still end up looking good. If you go to a tailor who doesn't know this, the end result will depend entirely on you.

    Besides, I'd have a hard time trusting a bespoke tailor that doesn't know how to solve fit issues, which is the main reason for the existence of bespoke tailoring in the first place. I wouldn't have accepted any of the clothes you have shown here so far, and would have demanded a remake. But then again, I probably would've avoided the whole issue by going to a tailor that knows what he's doing.

    So please, stop commissioning things for a while, and wear the stuff you have right now. Read about classic menswear on SF and other good sources, educate yourself, try different combinations, see what works and what doesn't. Use that time to save up your money for one suit at a good tailor. Let him do his thing, and compare that result with your current suits.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  2. akoustas

    akoustas Senior member

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    I don't know, the line on those is strange. I'm sure more educated commentators could offer better advice but to my eye they're oddly baggy in some parts yet overly tapered at others at the same time.
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those aren't well tailored pants I'm afraid. This is especially apparent from the side and rear.
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Iso, those pants don't fit well. I think they might be better if they were hanging from braces, though. As you're wearing them, they're sitting on your hips, the pleats are opening up, the ass is dumpy, and there isn't a clean break at the hem.
     


  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Time for a new tailor.
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah I mean I see they bulge a bit on the side they aren't great, but it still seems like a huge exaggeration to me to say I'm better off OTR. You know that these trousers cost about the same as OTR right (it's <70 GBP for CMT)? I've never find OTR trousers that actually fit as well as these. I'm still not convinced why it's a bad idea to try fill up my wardrobe this way, or how going for RTW would be better.

    Here are the trousers with belts on:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think the break is pretty much where I want it, and I specifically asked for slimmer trousers and I feel like they did a pretty good job with that.

    I don't see why these are seen to be so godawful when lots of trousers I see posted don't have perfect lines and such either. They seem perfectly servicable to me. Comparing this to something I'd get from steed seems pretty irrelevant when a pair of trousers from them cost I think 3-4x as much?
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  7. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Iso, your aspirations and drive to improve will be admired by most here. Thing is, that is tempered by some very good advice, succinct and otherwise, urging caution which you appear to have disregarded. The net result is, I'm afraid, a waste of your valuable time and money.

    I'm not one for long winded posts, as i tend not to read those posted by others, so suffice to say from MF down to Stitchy that is all gold ^

    Cut your losses, get reading on these boards, PM SF members you respect counselling their opinion, take heed and evolve.

    Said, like everyone else here, with all best intentions.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    They look okay in the belted picture, but there's still pocket flare and I can't understand why this fit isn't achievable through a OTR pair of pants...
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014




  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks for your advice.

    Thing is I'm just not seeing it. I've come to develop a much keener eye on a lot of other things, and now I can tell why my older stuff aren't very good, and even how it can be improved. It's just that I don't feel like I'm learning anything if I just take your word for it and say these trousers are terrible when I don't actually know why.

    Am I wrong to think that most trousers are made a bit looser for when you eat or whatever, so it's natural that it's a bit loose without a belt/adjuster? So when I put the belt on where I like to wear it (on my waist), it seems enough to bring the break to exactly where I want it, and then the lines also seem significantly cleaner. It um "flares" out wards or whatever at the hips but considering that I'm wearing it on the waist, and the hips are wider, isn't that normal? The pockets haven't flared out much, the fabric still sits flushed.

    Before I took this I looked at some of the fits posted with trousers (there aren't many) on SF and it seems like most of them have some lines on the trousers, it doesn't seem like it's practical to expect that a pair of trousers would have no lines or creases anywhere.

    edit:

    This one is by Dream Bespoke.

    OTR? Well it costs the same pretty much, but I have the option of getting them cuffed at no extra charge, have the pocket/stylings I like, added braces buttons, chose pleats for where I wanted, pick the fabric I like, and I think they definitely fit better than OTR stuff. These particular trousers cost about 112 GBP. I looked up trousers on Ede and Ravenscroft and they charge 125 pounds on chinos, and I assume it's similar for other places.

    Right, on Brooks Brothers it costs 130 pounds for wool dress trousers, so they literally cost less than OTR, and I find it hard to believe that these are worse than OTR, they don't seem that bad, and I'd say not bad at all unless you're trying to compare them to Steed or other bespoke stuff which is in an entirely different price range.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks for the link, I shall read it now.

    I'm trying to find examples of trousers in the waywrn thread to compare but they are almost always covered!
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  12. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Noodles says:

    [​IMG]
     


  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Tell Noodles to keep quiet and buy the wifey another purse. His balls should easily fit in this one:

    [​IMG]
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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