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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I like 3 and 4.

    1 and 6 have some fit issues - shoulders and arms. I also dislike the colour of 1.

    The very open quarters on 2 make you look a bit "hippy" (I mean anatomically, not culturally).

    6 is actually really nice, except the shoulders are too wide. Maybe a good alterations tailor could fix this for you.

    5 and 7 are ok but don't really grab me for some reason. 9 is better but Clags is right, the quarters are odd.

    8 looks ok.
     
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Having taken Monkeyface's critique on board, I've now made a few resolutions.

    1. Sent three jackets and three suits to Spoo today. All top quality stuff, but either didn't fit right or didn't flatter my form.

    2. No more impulse purchases of jackets or suits.

    3. Appointment with incontro for next week. Not sure yet whether this will yield a jacket or a suit - most likely the latter.

    4. Having nearly pulled the trigger on another G&G or a Vass, and much as I'd like to finally own a pair of the latter, I've stayed my hand and will instead fill the perceived gap in my shoe rack with a commission from Tianzi Shanghai. They have my measurements, and did a brilliant job last time, at about 20% of the RRP of a pair of Gaziani.

    We declare these things to be self-evident, and hereby affix our solemn seal and oath, sworn in the name of the Great Chicken In The Sky.
     
    3 people like this.
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I usually swear by the Flying Spaghetti Monster, but the great chicken in the sky will do for now.

    Great choices!! Looking forward to seeing te results.
     
  4. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Thanks for all the feedback. I knew the hip thing had gotten a bit worse later last year with some weight gain...seeing the pictures helps with the motivation get back to fighting weight.

    My shoulders tend to do better with a little structure in the jacket because they are uneven due to a college sports injury.

    I was originally thinking of sending #1 & #4 to Luxire as base pattern to replicate and I could make adjustments. #4 as a sport coat and lower the buttoning point. #1, loosen the waist measurement and possibly decrease shoulders slightly.

    #3 & #9, had no alterations besides sleeve length, so I will consider both going forward.

    This was when I was a few pounds lighter.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    #1: Kiton
    #2: Eidos
    #3: Formosa
    #4: Corneliani
    #5: Andrew Lock MTM
    #6: Logsdail MTM
    #7: Nikky
    #8: Canali Kei
    #9: Canali mainline
     
  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    The Formosa looks indeed fantastic in the full shot, Euro. Still, I think #4 (the Corneliani) would make a good base pattern too. Overall, I feel it has the most flattering proportions for your body type.
     
  6. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Thanks Eliod. Full shot and a couple pounds lighter [​IMG]
     
  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The Formosa needs bigger/more extended shoulder IMHO. In that pic it looks like your hips are wider than your shoulders. Perhaps a roped shoulder would suit you better?

    The chest could be a bit bigger as well btw.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  8. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Plane ticket booked!
    Going to Seoul on March 27th!
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    BnT the 28th?
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I wish.
    I will visit their shop, at the least. I really do want a suit from them. A bad@ss suit. I am not sure how my budget will work out though. I am hoping my annual bonus will cover it and then some. I have $2,000 budgeted to spend for the trip. We will stay at my wife's house so that budget is really for just food and shopping. I will be visiting Washington for shirts. You have you remind me how to fix my collar issues. I think their shirts are excellent. Let me know what you want me to pick up as we get close to March.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I love the way that Formosa looks on euro. I think its pretty spot on.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    So of the two full body pics I posted above, your preference is for the Kiton? It does have a more extended shoulder than the Formosa.
     
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I may be mistaken, but the first is the Kiton and the 2nd the Formosa, right?

    I much prefer the Kiton jacket over the Formosa one, as it makes you look slimmer and more athletic, due to the wider shoulders.

    I do prefer the trousers of the second one though. The kiton's are a bit too slim. Combine te jacket of the Kiton with trousers of the Formosa and you have'll a great suit.

    The Formosa would look great on you with slightly more extended shoulders, and a more swelled chest. I suppose you could ask Luxire to make those changes, but I'd be very careful with how they interpret that. They might not know how to do it an give you a very structured shoulder instead.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I am taking mental notes on which ones Euro may be writing off so I may pester him later for sales. But probably just for SCs. I think our inseams may differ by a lot.

    I also don't know why I chose to write it this way when you're in this thread. Super Bowl hangover excuse inserted here.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  15. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Correct, Kiton first and Formosa second. I wouldn't send Luxire Formosa - I may hold off on another Formosa until I can drop a bit of weight. I see what you are seeing but also believe an inch or so off the waist would make a world of difference.

    I may send Luxire the Kiton. I think they should be able to replicate fairly close and I can provide some slight adjustments.

    Thanks again.
     
  16. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Yeah, that might help, but it's more of an issue of your hips looking wider than your shoulders. Losing weight in the waist won't change that issue. Anyways, localised weight loss is impossible, so I'm sure you'll lose some weight in the hips as well.

    Good luck with the weight loss!! I just lost a little over 8lbs in the past month myself, so I know how hard it can be! Actually, it's not terribly hard once you're past the first week. Just cut all sugars, most carbs and continue to exercise. Keep eating lots of proteins like chicken breast to preserve any muscle you may have.

    One thing that helped most for me was intermittent fasting. Basically, I would eat every other day. One day I wouldn't eat anything, and the other I'd eat as much as I like, as long as it's mostly protein, low carb and no sugars. The day you can eat you'll only eat slightly more than normal, not nearly enough to make up for the day you didn't eat. You'll end up with about a 6000kcal deficit a week, meaning you'll lose about 2 pounds of fat a week.

    It sounds extreme, but the hunger subsides completely after a couple of hours, and you'll save loads of time by not having to prepare or eat any food. It gives you a sort of clarity of mind and focus, but that might just be a placebo effect. Anyways, it's just much easier than a normal diet, because there's no temptation to snack or 'fall off the wagon'. You know you're not going to eat for that day, so your willpower isn't constantly being tested/depleted during the day.

    Losing weight is really easy this way, and certainly much easier than gaining muscle, which is damn hard.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
    2 people like this.
  17. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    In re the fasting diet, I have utilized that approach to weight loss for years. It is incredibly effective. Personally, I try to fast during the day, and then I portion control my meals, aka, make chicken breast and broccoli. During the day, I occasionally eat fruit, or I eat raw veggies. I feel it makes me very sharp mentally, and I find it is the only way I can lose weight. Especially when I have 2-3 client dinners a week where I binge eat around 3,000+ calories. NOTE, my advice is not the advice of a nutritionist and is likely terrible.

    Also, regarding the Formosa and hippyness--I don't really see it in that picture. I think it looks great. Whatever hippiness there may be, I think it can be attributed to how you are standing. If you look closely, your right shoulder is thrown back, and that has caused your hip to be torqued. Again, I think it looks great, and taking pictures of yourself and hiding all "flaws" is next to impossible, at least for me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  18. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Facepalm.
    This makes my head hurt. 6kcal deficit does not mean 2lbs of fat lost a week. Given the fact that you're essentially starving yourself every other day, you're going to be losing fat and muscle.

    Also, congrats. You lost mostly water weight. What you're doing is basically forcing your body to cannibalize itself and whatever muscle you do have.

    Maintain a 500ish calorie deficit a day while keeping protein high-ish and you lose a pound a week. I think going too far over 500, i.e. in the 750-1k range needs to be worked up to and isn't really sustainable.

    I'll show myself the door now.
     
  19. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I never said it was good for me :(
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  20. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Yeah. Starving yourself all day and then eating one huge meal totally fucks with your hormone and bodies self regulation. I think it's also been implicated in more weight gain over the longer period of time because you fuck up your bodies insulin response.

    I'm not saying this to be a dick, but I really think you guys should talk to someone (like a nutritionist) to get info on this stuff, because some of the things being advocated on here are really really unhealthy.

    Also, it's pretty possible to gain weight and muscle while staying lean. It's just harder because it requires more thoughtful meal timing, control of macros (and timing of macros), and a willingness to bust your ass in the gym. Most people end up just gaining as long as the weights are moving up, and then do a cut when they're content. You definitely lose some muscle, but you can play around with that by doing timing meals properly (i.e. eating more carbs around your workout) and keeping protein high throughout the day.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
    6 people like this.

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