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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Steed's style does not include strong shoulders...they are soft.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I don't anything from these tailors, but from what I've read:

    Steed:
    Drape cut (owner is ex-Anderson and Sheppard, the Savile Row firm where the drape cut was developed)
    Soft shoulder (another Anderson and Sheppard characteristic)
    Less flared skirt

    Huntsman:
    Lean cut (there are no vertical folds in the chest area as with the Drape)
    Stronger shoulder, often with roped expression
    More flared skirt



     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Ah yes, thanks. I guess it's correct to say Steed's is basically a version of the drape cut that is popular in SR in general? I really like that kind of styling but with a stronger roped/pagoda shoulders, so perhaps it's more accurate for me to say that I like hunstman kind of styling. I do like 1 button jackets as well so, eh.

    I guess living in the UK and reading all this shakespeare has turned me into British styles. I think 2 years ago I would not have dreamed of myself liking tweed.
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ Drape cut does not have strong shoulders. I think if you walked into Steed and asked for a jacket with strong padded shoulders they might look at you kinda funny. They could technically do it, but it's not their specialty.

    Huntsman is considered either "military" or "equestrian" cut. It has strong padded shoulders and often roped shoulder expression.

    Drape and military/equestrian are very different. (See above)
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


  5. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Oh yeah, also, I'm not really feeling braces:

    [​IMG]


    I think it's largely because the trousers I have with braces button are quite tight on the waist so um... they hold on their own without belt or braces so the braces are just superflous. I think I should get looser trousers to wear with braces...?

    I understand for people who don't wear their trousers on waist or who have different body shapes, but it seems like braces are kind of pointless for someone who has a lean waist and want to wear trousers there as I do.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Those pants don't look like they fit you

    I see pockets flaring. Too small
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


  7. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

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    Besides the fit issue, it looks like you are wearing your trousers lower. Not sure what you define as the "waist". Braces require a looser fitting trouser, and are typically worn with the trouser waistband at or on the hips, which requires a greater rise measurement. We would need a full length picture for better assessment.
     


  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah I just took pictures with my better fitting pants from dream.

    I have to say this shot makes it look way too high waisted in the nerdy category, but I think it's the angle and outfit (or lack thereof)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Definitely too fitted to need braces. fwiw I would consider myself to be wearing them quite high already. It's at my belly button and right above the hipbone.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I tend to prefer side tabs with odd trousers and wear most of mine at the natural waist, which requires a higher rise than a lot of more modern trousers. I've started wearing braces since some weight loss has resulted in looser fitting trousers and I am now sold on them. The key with braces is that you get to wear your trousers cut a bit looser, which tends to be more comfortable. Your trousers will probably hang a bit better with braces in any event, but I currently only wear them with trousers that fit a bit looser. I prefer doing this with suits or at least when I am wearing a jacket as I do not care for the look of visible braces when not wearing a jacket.
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles got caught checking SF on a date and has to lay low for a while.
     


  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I hope you are joking.
     


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Would not surprise me...
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I hope he is not joking.

    I love getting caught checking SF mid convo with IRL people.
     


  14. rms340

    rms340 Senior member

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  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not joking. Got a PM with Kulata
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014


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