Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rudals: what is the rise of your pants? The second button is a bit higher over the belt. Hard to judge button stance (at least for me) from angle, but given the relation to the belt, I wonder about a too high stance. Where is the top button relative to your navel or natural hip? Quarters open a touch more than I would prefer.
     


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree, definitely better than the first one, and again, better shoulders than the Isaia.
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Isnt this too dark? They can fix the pull at the button or I can stop eating burgers. This is a dark gray Milano fit Trefeo. Same as above.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    38R
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014


  5. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Is it gray? I feel like a little bit lighter gray would give you more options in your wardrobe. As is, it feels a bit too close to the same saturation as several of your navy's. Not that the color is bad, I'm just questioning how much it adds for YOU right now. That said, given your CBD environment, you may not want to go too light which I understand.

    Edit: We posted at the same time, you answered one of my questions and confirmed my hesitation. :p
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014


  6. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I like that!
     


  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    L2R
    Thats exactly what I was thinking. It is as dark as my navy blue but I dont want a light gray. This wud allow me to wear the same ties and stuff and wint necessarily change my look.
     


  8. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Ok, so quick disclaimer: pretty obvious sleeves are too long on both, so, understood. Each shirt/fit has its +/-, but I will withhold further disclosure before getting feedback. Frontal only; don't give a shite what I look like from behind.

    Mazz (can click for larger pics)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Inglese

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014


  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    The Mazz (white) has too much fabric sticking out at the waist.
     


  10. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    Of the two, the Inglese fits your frame better. There are some obvious issues, but you'd have to wash the shirt a few times before saying what needs to happen to improve fit.
     


  11. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Rudals,

    I don't think you have to go too light. I have 2 gray suits neither of which are that dark. One I'd call light gray, while the other is more mid-gray. I think the color of the mid gray would work with your current accessories and provide options.

    Not this:
    [​IMG]

    But this:
    [​IMG]

    Still too light for you?
     


  12. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Way too short.

    Still too short (difficult to be sure from this angle/composition and without seeing it with the matching trousers in situ) but better than the Torino, for sure.

    Photo quality makes it impossible to tell what colour it actually is, and whether it looks OK against your skin tone.

    And I think this photo makes it clearer that it's still too short. Try this one in 38L, if they do that, and compare it to the 38R while wearing the full suit. In the absence of a photo comparison of the two, my hunch is that for a fairly traditional but not staid look, you'll need to shorten a 38L slightly, but it'll probably look better than the 38R once that's done. I'd say you need an extra 0.25-0.5" on the 38R's length, anyway.

    The photo perspective/styling is whack. All SS Havana are cut the same: 2B, moderate button stance, patch pockets, average lapels, soft shoulder, fairly short & slim. So it'll actually be the same proportions as the other one jungledude posted.

    FWIW, I like the one he linked to, but agree that it would have fairly limited utility and shouldn't be a first navy jacket.


    This. The Inglese is much more flattering. There are some issues, true, but for RTW, I'd suggest that it's actually very acceptable. Assuming the cuffs fit snugly/correctly when done up, that'll deal with the sleeve length issue too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014


  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Neither wud wok fo ma skin tone.
    Is the suit too dark?
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    A few things as i am catching up.

    1. jungle, that is probably the best purchase you have made in your life, hands down. I am legit jealous.

    2. Rudals, Id like to jot a few notes towards your attention:

    You are impetuous by nature, and that is fine. Kind of. Slow down and think as you go along. Snapping pics in 8 different suits and getting good advice is fine and dandy, but if you never stop enough to think about things based on what you have learned, you will be relying on others indefinitely. Sure, that may be fun for this thread, but its not ideal for you as a real living human being.

    I like that first gray suit a lot, the fabric and color seem quite nice and I like Zegna. However, please make the following 2 mental notes.

    1. When you take those mirror selfies you are lifting your arms which in turn lifts the body of the jacket and makes the button point appear higher than it does irl. Now, I dont know if you want to put your arms down and ask an SA to snap a pic, or take it home and have a friend/your woman do it and then bring back the stuff and buy what you like, or some other option, but the way you are taking the pics is not helping you to reflect how the suit actually looks, which is really the most important thing.

    2. As it relates to button stance, some people are very specific that your belt buckle should never show when the jacket is buttoned. EVAR! Some people don't care, and some even like it, especially those who wear lower rise pants. You will inevitably get people yanking you each way. A lot depends on build. For example, due to my girth, and my leg to torso ratio, I am much better off with the buckle out of sight. DerekS however, almost always has a visible buckle and he looks great. He is both taller and skinnier than me and has longer legs, so the visible waist line does not skew the appearance of his proportions.

    This is one of many many areas where there is not, per say, a right and a wrong, there is only a what looks best on you. You need to figure that out, and stick with it. Know in advance that there will always be people that do not like it, just like HF did not like my light tan shoes and navy suit, and that is fine, because if it looks good, and you are following a specific path with knowledge of what you are doing, and you pick one camp over another, thats is A-Ok.

    Thats all for now. :)
     


  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    He also has a Caruso navy coat coming.

    Jungle is big time now.

    His navy staples beat my navy staples now.

    (RLPL Drake soot + Caruso coat) > (Zegna Mila soot + PRL coat) :bigstar:
     


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