1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    10,969
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
    Luv, again, just from my eye and I am not familiar with AE so I'm happy to be corrected, my tuppence (2 cents)

    I've owned that type of shoe back in the day and fell out of love with em v quickly. The suede wasn't the best and scuffed up quickly, the brogueing, punch detail highlighted the issue.
    The soles were too thick and made the shoe difficult to wear with sleeker fits reducing it to a country brogue, and for me there's other places to go for that.

    The two suedes I shared earlier of mine are very simple, I also have plain monk (Monkton)


    [​IMG]


    and a plain suede derby (C n J Dartmouth).


    With a colour balance- choc, snuff etc you get the versatility to wear with different greys or browns


    Here's one of my whole cuts too OOI


    [​IMG]


    As I said before I have spent much mula on stuff that I thought was the bees knees only to quickly realise my impulsive reflex actually put me back some way. I now know what works for me yet still learn, sometimes begrudgingly, everyday.

    So, when all this advice is flying around I am all ears (eyes), comfortable in what I am and what works for me and open minded enough to take on-board the wise words of others.

    I wish the same for you my friend, or should i say Luv!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Uncle Nemo,
    I...honestly...I just can't afford expensive undies. The only ones that fall within my price range is Hanes. It's lovely because it shrinks every time you wash them and it made me wonder if I was getting fat (which was true in this case).

    Can someone find me a grenadine tie in charcoal grey? I think Sam Hober has only mid grey. I am looking for one like below.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    i feel like i have failed you. i am so sorry. i dont have the time or brain space at work today to really get into the meat and potatoes here today. :(

    ill get back at it though.


    under armor 9" boxer jocks are the best underwear in the universe. changed my life.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
    7,382
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    You don't need another solid grey tie. Now be quiet for a bit, get ready for your day trying on and photographing but not buying suits tomorrow, and let us help out LTBR for a minute.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
  6. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

    Messages:
    902
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    You haven't failed me. I've got plenty of fine gentlemen already helping me out. Plus we have mostly established that purging is the first order of business, and that may take me a while. You will probably come in at the tail of that and can be a great asset once I start looking to kop! :)

    Rudals these are the same underwear that I was referring to.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    yes, i saw that advise as i was catching up. i certainly agree that purging your closet of the bad comes first. it will give you $ to kop new stuff, and more importantly, it will leave you with a better idea of what good stuff you have, and then by omission, what you need to add.

    i just wish i was in the game enough now to help you decide what to purge.

    as always, i am super happy to encourage koppage.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  8. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    I buy Flint & Tinder boxer briefs and I hate to say it, but I buy Banana Republic plain white undershirts - the BR ones don't have a harsh Kanye West v-neck and they are tagless and extremely soft and breathable. I've tried Polo, Hugo Boss and some others and they have a very sharp v-neck. And I won't pay $40+ for white tees so other brands will never be tested by me.

    The Flint & Tinder stuff is also extremely soft and breathable.
     
  9. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2014
    CBD Tie Primer



    Hello everybody!

    First of all, let me say that lurking this thread has been thoroughly enjoyable. Without distracting too much from the proceedings, I’d appreciate it greatly if yall could help orient me a little on CBD ties. I don’t want to interrupt too much or redirect the conversation so even short and sweet advice is appreciated. All thoughts welcome, and thank you in advance!

    --Sundance



    Here’s the situation: while I don’t currently own a single stitch of CBD, in a few months I’m moving into a conservative field and need to enter with at least a starter wardrobe—and though I basically understand the ‘standards’ for suits and shoes I’m a little lost on ties. With very little disposable income on hand, I need to start slowly and carefully, prioritizing unassuming pieces for maximum replay value. This thread has provided lots of great advice on particulars, but I haven’t really been able to figure out the underlying theory of the most basic options. I reckon I just haven’t had the long-term daily exposure to CBD required to internalize the rules, so I need a cheat sheet to get me started. Can yall help me out?






    Question 1: RULES

    Here’s the best I can figure:

    CBD colors:
    1. Navy
    2. Burgundy
    …?

    CBD styles:
    1. Solid (/grenadine)
    2. Repp stripe
    3. Pindot
    4. Neat
    …?






    Question 2: COLLECTION

    I’ve seen some folks on here say they couldn’t possibly get by with fewer than 50 ties, but that kind of “minimum” number is unattainable to me at this point in time. So what’s actually the barest acceptable collection for daily wear? I don’t really care about special-occasion ties (“you need to have a shepherd’s check for a wedding!”) or anything seasonal (“wool for winter!”), just those maximally functional for weekday business year-round. Maybe sixteen, for a three-week rotation? I’ll assume that number for the sake of argument but tell me if I need to adjust my parameters.

    So, buying no more than one batch of four ties each quarter, how would you build out a sixteen-count set of CBD ties over the course of a year? Batch #1 is going to see a lot of repetition. Specific suggestions welcome, but please keep in mind that no matter how lovely I find some of the ties that showed up earlier in the thread (Cappelli, Drakes), I can’t really spend more than $80 apiece—so Hober’s about my limit. For grounding the palette assume a navy suit, black shoes, solid blue or white shirt—again I can’t do more than basics. My initial, unfinished list below, with lots of navy (blame my limited visual imagination and determination to hew as conservative as possible). I welcome any suggestions yall may have.


    1. Navy grenadine
    2. Burgundy grenadine
    3. Black grenadine
    4. Navy/white repp
    *
    5. Navy/white pindot
    6. Burgundy neat
    7. Navy/green repp
    8. Dark brown grenadine
    *
    9. Navy neat
    10. ?
    11. ?
    12. ?
    *
    13. ?
    14. ?
    15. ?
    16. ?
     
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,840
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    I don't understand pricey underwear.
     
  11. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    I'm definitely not a snob with that stuff but I've tried some less expensive ones and the waistband would give out or something else would kind of suck about it.

    If I found a $5.99 brand that felt the same way I'd obviously start buying that one instead.
     
  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    I've had mine Target Hanes undies for almost 2 years and...they're fine for me.
     
  13. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
    7,382
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    OK LTBR, here are some thoughts on shoes. What I've set out to do, is a few things:

    - See alternatives to AE. Not because AE is bad, but because you know the maker well, and knowing more options is good.

    - Different shapes: none of these look like AE shoes, because variety is the spice of life. And everyone in America owns a pair of walnut Strands. Allegedly.

    - Try some different sources as much as different brands; there is a world out there.

    - Have an illustrative idea of what might be the most useful types of shoes, as much as specific models

    The premise I've started with is that you have $1500 and are going on a shoe orgy. You want five pairs. I have made some assumptions:

    - You will wear anything

    - You are occasionally formal, or more likely, semi formal, but mostly in a casual environment in cords or chinos

    - You aspire to be an academic and will be looking towards a laid back but more mature and classic wardrobe

    So here are some shoes, with explanations:

    The black cap toe. In this case, by Loake from our affiliate friends Pediwear. They do the best deals on this modest maker. The last shape is nice without being showy. The leather is calf, not polished binder. And with shipping, they'll set you back about $250. It's not the most celebrated maker on SF, but these are English-made goodyear welted shoes, and I've had some with worse leather than this for over ten years. Every man needs a black cap toe - good with all your suits, and your go-to for evening lounge suit, black tie and funerals. Must have.

    [​IMG]


    The nearly formal brown. More like dark tan really, a punched cap toe with medallion, or more or less a "half brogue". From Meermin, another affiliate. They can be slow sometimes, but they're cheap. You're done with shipping for about $200. It's an oxford, in a dark colour, and perfectly appropriate for your suits in the day time. When you get your more academic grown up tweed jackets and hairy suits, these will be really sharp. But being this colour, they're perfectly at home with your chinos too. These are your black oxfords for when you don't need the black oxfords. Possibly your most versatile and favourite-shoe-to-be.
    [​IMG]

    The country casual. Mid tan, a chunky derby, grain leather, definitely not with a suit. But with chinos or flannels and a sports jacket, these are perfect for your morning lecture or your walk in the park alike. These are from Howard Yount. I've not tried their shoes, but Claghorn's a fan of his rather similar boots. These are on offer at $299 including US shipping, in your size. You need a range of brown shoes, and these look like a good option.

    [​IMG]



    The easy shoe. Well, this is Styleforum so rather than a loafer or a suede "buck", it's an i-Gent staple double monk. Also, I own a pair of these - by accidentally winning an auction. And the colour is fabulous, they're super comfortable, and the hidden elastic on the rear buckle make them sneaky slip-ons that don't look like it. I wear these with odd jackets and even with a suit. Especially on days I know I'm going to take my shoes off (may or may not be an issue!). But the point of these, whether you choose monks, loafers, or a big floppy chukka boot, is that they are both easy, and another daily wear option for your semi-casual workplace. They are made in Spain, like Meermin, so good value: $250 with US shipping included. Yay.

    [​IMG]

    The wild card. You might have noticed that you've only spent $1000. These are the last $500, but it doesn't matter. The point's already made, I think. With a decent pair of brown brogues and a casual summer shoe already in your hands, you have what you need with everything above. So this is a treat. You could email shoebank@allenedmonds.com and ask for seconds in a 10D. You might get five pairs for that remaining $500 if you want, or two shell cordovan seconds. You can scan Pediwear's site more thoroughly and pick up a sale item from Crockett & Jones or Tricker's. Fabulous. Try a Meermin made-to-order, or something from Carmina, or Vass (just) or get those others that caught your eye at HY or wherever. Kent Wang have some impressive stuff I've just seen by DC Lewis - again, SF affiliates so plenty of info available.

    But my choice, on a whim, was this. Burgundy is a non-brown option that goes a lot of places brown goes. You didn't have a boot, so here is one. It's fabulously made for the money and will make you crave high quality French calf, channeled soles, a London waist and fancy packaging. And it was designed by a guy who's put his heart and soul into shoes and has just reached the point where he's made it to and through the first year of production. If you don't already know him, he's quite inspirational I think. He's also an inactive SF member - a bit too busy walking the walk these days. Anyway, I tried these on last month. They're exceptional. Whether they're for you is not my decision, but they are an illustration of the possible.
    [​IMG]


    The point of this is not that you go and get all these shoes. It's that you go an explore all these places and more, and find a similarly varied but useful collection that fits your budget. And do email the AE Shoe Bank anyway. No harm in one or two bargains from there now and then. Just remember what else is out there. Enjoy, and let us know how you get on. :)
     
    4 people like this.
  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    ^ I agree with much of what Mimo said above, especially the part about trying different brands (though shoe shopping online with unfamiliar brands can be a PITA) and exploring options. For someone who does not have to wear suits and only does so occasionally, however, I'd replace the pair of brown oxfords with another pair of derbys or possibly a pair of monks or loafers (whichever he did not end up getting). So 1 pair of black oxfords, 1 pair of monks (single or double) in some sort of brown, 1 pair of loafers in brown or burgundy, 1 pair of derbys (really like the ones Mimo linked to) in some sort of brown and then either a pair of boots or another pair of derbys. Only pair of black shoes needed for now is the oxfords. I'm not a fan of oxfords without a tie, so I guess I don't think a pair of brown semi-brogue oxfords are actually that useful for him.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Nice job Mimo. Sort of like writing the answer key to your own test! ;)
     
  16. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2014
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,840
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Heavens, we wouldn't want a delay!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2014
    Sure, I'm a little anxious :) But more to the point, I'm uncertain whether the publishing delay may have caused the post not to register for thread subscribers. Be prepared, safe and sorry, etc.
     
  19. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    quote name="Sundance" url="/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/1815#post_6918631"]CBD Tie Primer Hello everybody! First of all, let me say that lurking this thread has been thoroughly enjoyable. Without distracting too much from the proceedings, I’d appreciate it greatly if yall could help orient me a little on CBD ties. I don’t want to interrupt too much or redirect the conversation so even short and sweet advice is appreciated. All thoughts welcome, and thank you in advance! --Sundance Here’s the situation: while I don’t currently own a single stitch of CBD, in a few months I’m moving into a conservative field and need to enter with at least a starter wardrobe—and though I basically understand the ‘standards’ for suits and shoes I’m a little lost on ties. With very little disposable income on hand, I need to start slowly and carefully, prioritizing unassuming pieces for maximum replay value. This thread has provided lots of great advice on particulars, but I haven’t really been able to figure out the underlying theory of the most basic options. I reckon I just haven’t had the long-term daily exposure to CBD required to internalize the rules, so I need a cheat sheet to get me started. Can yall help me out? Question 1: RULES Here’s the best I can figure: CBD colors:
    1. Navy 2. Burgundy …?

    CBD styles:
    1. Solid (/grenadine) 2. Repp stripe 3. Pindot 4. Neat …?
    Question 2: COLLECTION I’ve seen some folks on here say they couldn’t possibly get by with fewer than 50 ties, but that kind of “minimum” number is unattainable to me at this point in time. So what’s actually the barest acceptable collection for daily wear? I don’t really care about special-occasion ties (“you need to have a shepherd’s check for a wedding!”) or anything seasonal (“wool for winter!”), just those maximally functional for weekday business year-round. Maybe sixteen, for a three-week rotation? I’ll assume that number for the sake of argument but tell me if I need to adjust my parameters. So, buying no more than one batch of four ties each quarter, how would you build out a sixteen-count set of CBD ties over the course of a year? Batch #1 is going to see a lot of repetition. Specific suggestions welcome, but please keep in mind that no matter how lovely I find some of the ties that showed up earlier in the thread (Cappelli, Drakes), I can’t really spend more than $80 apiece—so Hober’s about my limit. For grounding the palette assume a navy suit, black shoes, solid blue or white shirt—again I can’t do more than basics. My initial, unfinished list below, with lots of navy (blame my limited visual imagination and determination to hew as conservative as possible). I welcome any suggestions yall may have.
    1. Navy grenadine 2. Burgundy grenadine 3. Black grenadine 4. Navy/white repp
    *
    5. Navy/white pindot 6. Burgundy neat 7. Navy/green repp 8. Dark brown grenadine
    *
    9. Navy neat 10. ? 11. ? 12. ?
    *
    13. ? 14. ? 15. ? 16. ?
    [/quote]
    Okay, so basically you want a wardrobe with 16 ties that are CBD. With a tie wardrobe of that size, IMO you want to have around 8 solids and 8 ties with subtle patterns. Basic colors include black, navy, light blue, grey / silver, burgundy, and forest green. You should have a solid tie in each of these colors. That is 6 right there. Grey also gives you a bit of range so you could have a lighter grey grenadine and perhaps a darker grey in something like a diamond weave or oxford. Mix up the weaves (grenadine is great but there are other options such as diamond weaves and oxford weaves that work nicely). You should be able to get to 8 solids with these sorts of colors and a mix of weaves without a problem. As for patterns, I'd say two pindots (midnight blue and burgundy), two striped ties (exact configuration up to you) and 4 neats / Macclesfields / etc. (navy, dark red / burgundy, dark green, brown). If you are truly only wearing navy suits, I would make sure you only have one navy solid and maybe 1-2 navy / midnight ties with patterns. Navy on navy can work just fine but don't overdo it. You can find attractive ties with conservative patterns on other color grounds.
     
  20. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

    Messages:
    620
    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    @mimo who's the maker on those calf/suede boots? Didn't see one listed, but they look great!
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by