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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    I wish SuitSupply worked better for me. I love the Havana but the R, which fits pretty well through the body, has sleeves that are too long, and the S which has perfect sleeves is too short/too high buttoning point. I might go take a look at their new Mercer cut.
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Which fit? Havana? Tried one on while I was in Antwerp. Surprisingly decent button stance (they seem to have dropped it lower). Still on the short side but not obscenely so.
     
  3. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I will :)
     
  4. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    holy cow, somebody has about 20 pairs of incoming shoes at 1k a pop?

    That's some unprecedented koppage right there. Hats off.

    What was the logic behind it? Is it a total makeover? I presume there's going to be a lot of used shoes flooding the SF market.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Let's just hope they all fit well.
     
  6. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Wow - quite a lot has been said while I was sleeping peacefully in my hotel dreaming about my first fitting today!

    I can appreciate all the points made here by everyone. Generally I am a person who is very impatient. If I want something I want it right now. That is the main reasoning behind pre-paying Luxire - so the shirt fabrics are in stock when they start work.

    Four months ago my wardrobe consisted of a few pairs of jeans and tee shirts and shirts. mostly ill fitting because I lost a large amount of weight when I went to rehab (to stop drinking). I have always loved menswear but never felt confident enough to spend any money on anything decent.

    As a consequence of my new sober life and 30kg less weight I decided to go for gold and live my dream. Sure enough I have made many blunders on eBay (Spoo is going to be partly the beneficiary of those mistakes as I am consigning the errors through him). Because of the errors I decided to seriously get advice from here and not buy things unless you guys had a look over them first.

    I have basically replaced all my ties and a large number of shoes. Shirts are on hold for a good fit obviously but all the fabrics I have chosen are the ones you (Claghorn) advised me on a few weeks ago. Until I can get to Italy later in the year those will be my staples. Admittedly I do still have a bunch of shirts coming that I had already ordered but, for the most part, I think they are in fabrics that would be approved of here (they are liveranos and G Inglese shirts).

    The best way for me to learn is hands on - so I do think that going the Kent Wang and Luxire way is a good idea at this point. Who knows whether I will replace it all with Liverano or Rubinacci at the end of the year - but I will at least look presentable when I walk through their doors for the first time :)

    The advice I have received here has been incredibly valuable (financially too - as I am making far fewer mistakes now) and hopefully some time in the future I will be able to contribute something back.

    All in all I feel like I am at the start of the journey and in time will develop my own style - that is going to involve new stuff regardless of what I buy now so why wait? :)
     
    7 people like this.
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    As an aside, and Im not accusing anyone of this in specific, but I think sometimes when people see someone spending so freely, its like, hey, lets recommend the most expensive option possible because its really cool to see and Im curious what will happen and dont have the funds to do it myself so Ill tell this guy to do it. Im sure no one here is doing that, and the recommendations are all in good faith, but its worth being mindful of.

    Welp, in any case, I think enough ink has been spilled on the L&L dispute, and all sides have made their points well. As usual, I dont think there is a right or a wrong, just different ways to go about things.

    Whatever jfrat does, I hope he has fun doing it and is pleased with the outcome.
     
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I don't think that's the case. Plenty of liverano pics online, so a couple of pics more or less doesn't matter much.

    Liverano is just a very good tailor, who will make sure you have a great suit, even if you don't know anything about tailoring. Judging from the fabric choices jfrater has shown us so far, he'll be far better off by letting a tailor make the choices for him than he himself having to pick fabrics and adjust MTM suits according to his own measurements.

    Getting a great KW suit takes far more skill than going to a tailor and getting suit made for you. You have to know exactly what looks good on you and why, you'll have to know what to adjust and whether that can be safely done in order to make a suit fit well. You have to pick the right kind of fabrics and combinations, e.g. no smooth worsted peak lapel suit with triple patch pockets and contrast stitching.

    All you have to do for a bespoke suit is make an appointment and say: could you please make me a casual navy suit that looks good on me? As long as the tailor is halfway decent you'll end up with something very nice, while the result is by no means guaranteed with a KW suit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
    2 people like this.
  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Most are MTO from brands I have tried for size :)
     
    2 people like this.
  10. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I can assure you I'm having a blast right now :) the weather in Auckland is glorious and I'm having a coffee and smokes outside under Palm trees while I wait to go to the tailor in an hour :)
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Glad to hear! Hope you get some good results at the tailor. Make sure you let him do his thing.
     
  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Thanks :) I'll let his good sense overrule my taste in fabric :)
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Gotta luv my wife. She spent the gift card all on some crap from Gucci...in just couple of hours. One item. [​IMG]


    @Claghorn
    you katalk'd me...then you stopped.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  14. LEVOOSH

    LEVOOSH Senior member

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    Just to weigh in here. I think the recommendation of L&L is not just because they are the most expensive but because Antonio is an excellent tailor and having the guidance of an excellent tailor is the best way to resolve fit issues, pick fabrics, etc. I think that Patrick Johnson is likely the best alternative for @jfrater based on what I've seen of their work and the benefits of having someone actually see him and the clothes together.

    If jfrater is new to menswear, why is it preferable for him to essentially go through an on-line MTM process with Kent Wang which is asking for trouble. While @Claghorn maintains that issues will be ironed out in months, I think that is incorrect. With no one to ever view the garment in person and make adjustments, it is far more likely that issues will never be properly resolved.

    It is not a matter of means/ends. As I said above, in my view, jfrater needs serious guidance and to develop a relationship with a tailor who he trusts. No offense intended but the Harrisons Millionaire Fabric he posted above is a very poor choice for a first bespoke commission and in my view at all. A good tailor (a la P. Johnson and Antonio, Mystery Auckland tailor) can be immeasurably helpful in selecting the proper fabrics. Not to say our community isn't helpful, but just from the divergent opinions on this issue it can become confusing as to how to proceed.

    While we all have our own experiences with MTM/bespoke and have fun talking about it and diagnosing fit issues on the net, you cannot replace the experience of a well-trained tailor with a good eye overseeing things to make sure that they turn out correctly. In my view, that process is far less risky.
     
    3 people like this.
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I dont understand, are you saying that my opinion that he hold off on L&L for now is objectively wrong?


    Awesome.


    Even more awesome.

    ---

    Very good points, LEVOOSH.
     
  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    B&Tailor makes L&L?
    Love them.
     
  17. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Can anyone who has done MTM with Kent Wang post a couple of examples? I want to get a Blazersuit made late this spring and his is a very attractive price point.
     
  18. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    - Liverano & Liverano is awesome. All I have seen from them are spectacular and that can't really be said of most tailors.

    - Online MTM is a crapshoot if you don't have an ideal body and if the tailor is not willing to replicate an existing garment that already fits well. You can expect your first suit to end up in a trash pile.

    - @jfrater should focus more on his Auckland tailor and try Pjohnson, BnT and Liverano when he has the opportunity.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
    2 people like this.
  19. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Nope, I was saying I don't think anyone recommends L&L because they want to see him in expensive things. No one cares whether he buys a $20k vicuna suit with gold threaded stitching or a $500 suitsupply suit. I don't live vicariously through others, and I don't think anyone else does either.

    We recommend L&L, or any good tailor for that matter (like P Johnson), over KW MTM because it's a much less risky option. You're pretty much guaranteed good results. Why fiddle around with a RTW suit that might never fit well, especially when you don't know anything about how a suit should fit, when a tailor can guarantee you a well fitting and tasteful suit?

    Self-measured MTM is just not a good option for a newbie. Maybe when he's been wearing suits for a year and knows what to look for he can do that well, but for now, a tailor will make sure he'll get a well fitting suit in a tasteful cloth.

    Edit: what Kulata said. Online MTM is a crapshoot. Not worth it if you have the money to pay for real life bespoke.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  20. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    This was my first suit with Kent. I'm on the fence about slimming the second one a little bit, so not posting pictures of that one right now.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.

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