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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Your heads-up on that discount is what piqued my interest in the first place.

    But I must admit that the Vass love from MF, Murl and others has convinced me to re-sheath my plastic sword and give some further consideration to Magyar cordwainery.

    jfrater, that is spot-on. Your progress amazes me. Now, go and scour your extensive wardrobe for similarly inspired combos. I bet there's at least 10,000 different ones in there.

    With your height, shoulders and drop, I would suggest that you follow SpooPoker - both his own fits, which he used to post regularly here (and easy enough to find them via the forum tools), and his LuxeSwap thread and site (see Industry Insiders panel in the right margin).

    From what you've specified above, you're about Spoo's size and shape. Shoot him a PM with your garment measurements and he might have something just right for you, generally at a very reasonable price (although you may have to bid at auction via his eBay site).
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Here are some of the Vass shoes on their Italian lasts which have caught my eye:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Nothing too shabby in that bunch.
     
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Honestly I'd love to make a trip to Hungary just for some sweet sweet Vass. They are beautiful shoes and as much as I like CJ they just seem a level more hmm ethereal.

    Jfrater that's a really good combination. Good job.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These photos of the Vaaaaaaaash and G&Gs really do them a disservice. The photos posted by members are usually much better than these.
     
  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Yeah, those pictures do suck. Not the U or K lasts, but they are beauties:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I just emailed Skoak to MTO the same Dovers @Newcomer posted a few pages ago. I'm super excited.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
    2 people like this.
  6. tv2177

    tv2177 Senior member

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    Not sure if this is the right thread to post the question, but I do need some advice on improving my business wardrobe.

    So I am up to grab two suits for under $2500 and I am currently thinking about Ring Jacket Model 184, RLBL Antony, Southwick suit from Epaulet, and MTM by KW, what are your gents' priority on these brands, and what are some other suggestions?

    I have been reading a lot about the canvass construction, but cannot understand the difference between full and half, namely, does it look very different and worth the extra $?

    Also, my only suit right now is Jcrew's Ludlow which I bought it on sale and it's their worested wool in navy, but it actually looks a bit grey IRL. Now, for the two suits I am going to buy, should I buy 2 navy, or 1 navy and 1 grey? For grey I am leaning towards medium grey for versatility, is that the right direction?

    Thanks in advance!

    p.s. if this is the wrong thread to ask, can someone point me to the right thread for an answer?
     
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Murlsquirl also has quite an impressive drop. His favored suits (Eidos Lorenzo and Formosa) are not budget items tho. But he might have some thoughts for you on RTW that would work.

    @Murlsquirl
     
  8. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Yeah, we are pretty similar in size. You need to find somewhere that you can order seperates (trousers and jacket). Take a look at Benjamin from eHaberdasher. The 40 or 42L might work for you and if they have the trousers in stock, they will let you swap sizes to a smaller waist.

    I wish I had more options, but I haven't really done much exploring. I have expensive tastes because this is really a passion/hobby for me, not a necessity for work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @ryoanji

    That's good advice, it seems to me. I think the Benjamin is full canvas, made in Italy. I had considered it once a few years ago, though never tried one on. It is worth a look. Also, Cox's suggestion of Spoo and his auctions might be a good way for you to score something of high quality at a reasonable price, with Spoo's recommendations and advice.

    One last thing you should think about: I'm not sure what line of work you are in in academics, but I wouldn't fault someone who came to an interview in an odd jacket/trousers. So, a navy blazer and mid gray pants might be something you should strongly consider and would obviate the problems you face of matching a suit to your build. Would make your life much easier.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Believe it's half canvass, but still a good deal.
     
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is there any rush? If not, then go with Kent Wang. You'd need to get the charcoal trial suit first, and then you work from there. The nice thing is that once you get everything dialed in with Kent Wang, it's really easy to add suits, pants, and jackets as you go on.

    I've never noticed much difference between half and full canvassed (though there is a difference).

    Regardless, gray and navy over navy and navy. And medium gray is a good bet.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    okay - latest ties and shoes. I am hoping these ties are more what @Claghorn had in mind when he suggested simpler.

    The ties are all from Vanda - my first ties from there - they are awesome!

    The shoes are Bontoni - grey. Not sure how I'll pair them yet but I love them.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Wow, that is quite the Vanda tie haul. Congrats, they make some beautiful ties.
     
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  14. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    The ties are beautiful, but 5 and 6 look almost identical to me.
     
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  15. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    5 is a herringbone where 6 is not (if that helps) and the color is just a bit more grey compared to the blue of 6. Agreed that those are nice ties, of course.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  16. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    Still too similar IMO. Don't take my word for it though. I probably have more than 10 solid navy blue ties.
     
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  17. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hey all, I figured I'd float this by y'all here, see if it's something worth pursuing.

    Frui makes the house ties for BnTailor. They are absolutely superb. Not quite on the level of Vanda, but very close. I'm probably going to pick one up (especially with this nice exchange rate we've got going on), and I figured I might want to try and get a group buy going. Might be able to argue for a one time discount. Or not. Regardless, they're a solid bargain. And they're very SF friendly in terms of construction and design (and width, thank god, 8.5cm). So I sort of want to try and introduce them to the forum. If y'all are interested in this endeavor, I'll start a thread for it.

    A couple of ties I'd be interested in (though I'm probably just getting the first brown and maybe the first green). From their S/S 14 collection. 75 dollars. Self-tipped.

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Wool, linen, cashmere/wool, 105-118 (hand rolled)
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Their S/S 15 should be nice as well.

    www.fruistore.com
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  18. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    As you should have. Especially when combining blues on blues, it is so hard to get the shades just right. Then it's handy if you have a lot to choose from.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is exactly what I had in mind.
     
  20. NewYawker

    NewYawker Senior member

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    @Claghorn hey clag - I mostly just lurk in this thread but I would definitely be interested in some of those ties. Let me know - thanks.
     

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