Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I used to have it as well. Sized up and it disappeared, so having a bigger chest measurement does help. Some drape in the jacket's chest might help as well.
     


  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I inquired a friend with regards to broadening my shoulders. He said that it is usually around high school age when it is set and done. One cannot broaden their shoulders drastically in their early 30's, he said. [​IMG]
     


  3. akoustas

    akoustas Senior member

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    @Monkeyface hmmmm a 44 hangs pretty poorly on me though. I've mainly gone the MTM and Bespoke in the past couple years, so it's less of an issue. Nevertheless I was a grade 1 Slim Fit Suit offender and am always self-conscious about things being too snug. May risk the wrath and post some fit pics.
     


  4. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Let's see them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     


  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    You can't really change your bone structure in your 30s (Medical person wanna attest to this?) but you can significantly buildup your shoulder muscles and that widens your shoulders and it's pretty easy actually coz the muscle groups respond to weight training.


    @Monkeyface you are lucky that sizing up works for you.
     


  6. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Ok. I will give it a try.

    After I take a stab at OJT, we can have another 1000 pages on how to make it in SW&D thread.
     


  7. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hahaha, no. I was never in his league, and I lived in another town when I was active. I was mainly into it because of the great workout. Since I really hate any other form of workout besides going to the gym, this was a good way to sneak some cardio into my routines while doing something that's fun enough to take my mind off the fact that I was doing cardio :D.
     


  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Unfortunately, it's more complicated than merely sizing up. Back when he was more active in the Tailors' thread, Despos told me I was not really a 42L, but was a 44 in the chest and a 40 in the back. He also said the fix was not just more chest fabric, but how it is shaped and fitted, which was why he said I would never get a good fit without going bespoke or really high end MTM. I've navigated this OTR with tailoring that usually involves getting a fuller chest and taking the back in.

    This raises a question that I've been meaning to pose here. I'm probably a drop 8 or 9, depending on the cut, which leaves me with two options when I get jackets tailored: (i) leave the jacket a little fuller to ensure the lapels mostly lay flat and end up with a very traditional full cut; or (ii) slim the jacket up enough to show that I'm not 10 pounds overweight, which causes the issue I mentioned. Below are front and side shots of two jackets that have the pocket square issue.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]







    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Your skeleton, yeah sure that's done after puberty. You can still add muscle to a frame though.

    It's much more on the lateral deltoid and everything just gets bigger circumferentially as does the rest of the shoulder.

    Oh... @kulata beat me to it!


    I'm more worried about back stuff at this point honestly, just because you twist/pivot a lot.
     


  10. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    @Monkeyface
    The prevalence of injuries from running is likely exaggerated by its popularity and its status as the first "go-to" activity for sedentary/obese people. I do see more acute injuries from contact sports or activities that require sudden directional changes at high velocity, but as far as chronic injuries go, running is at the top of the heap.


    @kulata
    You're pretty much stuck with whatever your genes have to say about actual bone structure.

    Re: fitting muscular bodies: So much tailoring. Major surgery to the collar/upper back to have the jacket be clean through the upper back and for the collar to lay correctly. Major surgery to jacket right below the chest/armhole to accommodate for the large drop between upper chest size/lat thickness and lower chest/waist (I like drape but holy drape pre-op). Major surgery to pants if you didn't go MTM because of large drop/accommodate developed glutes. God forbid you want something but the sleevehead is too narrow to accommodate your delts/upper arm so you have shoulder divots or decided, to you know, put on some more muscle, so now your lapels are bowing, vents are flaring, and you look terrible.

    @The Noodles
    You can give yourself a more V-shaped and tapered appearance by developing your deltoids and lats. Pullups would be a great starting point.

    @ridethecliche
    Shear force/torque no bueno
     


  11. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Just in case there are any Noodlists out there who are dying to get their hands on Formosa suits from NMWA, @gdl203 (aka Greg) was kind enough to give me a good picture of what is going on with the restocking process. Expect to wait anywhere from 2 to 3 weeks before all the Formosa suits are received, restocked, and ready to receive your orders. NMWA did offer the a time frame in which you could have pre-ordered but that option is no longer available. For those who did not pre-order, expect to see 1 suit restocked per size, except 48R and 50R (2 suits will be restocked for them). So if you are waiting for one to restock, check up on the tweet updates from NMWA.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014


  12. akoustas

    akoustas Senior member

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    @New Shoes1 I appreciate the feedback. I've found that tailoring RTW jackets involves some major surgury for me in most cases. Unfortunately our selection of tailors in Toronto (that I'd trust) is pretty spotty, and usually it's just not worth all the trouble. Even if I bought a really nice jacket on sale (say for $800), I'd be looking at another $150 in tailoring costs (from anyone decent), at which point I'm painfully close to MTM options anyways.

    I'd sooner go for the bulgy pocket square than a shapeless suit (NOTE no bulging lapels sans square). I think if you've built up your chest and back that it's a pretty unavoidable outcome (to varying degrees of course). I'd sooner have to live with that slight faux-pas as opposed to a unflattering silhouette.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I'd rather be in a city with one good tailor that's affordable, than in a city with loads that are all expensive. I dropped off a jacket that needs to be taken in at the waist, and 2 trousers that need to be taken out at the seat. £220!!!
    That's $350 for you mericuns.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014


  14. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    That is absurd.

    ...and it's Muricans, dammit. Get it right.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014


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