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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    New Zealand
    

    I am definitely looking into bespoke. I have already started that process with suits so I won't be buying any more RTW brionis - as much as I love them!
     
  2. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Oh, okay, that makes sense! And yeah, really, out of my rotation, I think I really only wear about 10 of them frequently.


    And I agree, I think that you can't go wrong with the Dover on the 202 or the 606. I just think with the design of the shoe, the more angular 606 plays better with the split toe. The 606 and 202 are severely underrated.

    As for the 888, eh, not my favorite personally. I prefer the 890 I think. Then again, I am more of an F laster than a U laster. And if I am going chiseled, I think I prefer G&Gs lasts. Not to say that the 888 is not special. I just prefer a lot of EGs other lasts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I must have missed it--who are you pursuing bespoke with? Also, where are you based, if you don't mind me asking?
     
  4. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I am in NZ. I am going to a bespoke tailor in Auckland next week to get some trousers and a first jacket made - plus I am going through the alterations process with Kent Wang right now on their test suit so I can get future stuff made by them too. Later in the year I hope to get something at Liverano while I am on holiday.
     
  5. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    Of course you do. You and your odd chiseled toe fetish :) (I was hoping the F last Vass Norwegers broke you out of that mindset).

    I currently have 7 oxfords and 6 blutchers along with 6 chukkas and 6 boots. As well as **Not for Murl**
    3 loafers

    I can see myself getting rid of 2 of my current oxfords. But I also have an additional 4 chukkas on my wishlist (only 1 would be an upgrade/replacement) as well as about 4 blutchers and maybe 1-2 oxfords.

    So that still keeps me under 20 if you count shoes and boots separately. :embar:
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Have you heard of the tailor before? I would like to stress, that bespoke is not necessarily good bespoke.

    I think your Liverano idea is great. And have you ever given thought to using P Johnson? They get fairly excellent reviews, and are a bit closer than Liverano. I apologize if I am coming across as a bit of a hard-ass. I guess I am just trying to rationalize the whole process.
     
  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I'll pretend I didn't see that, Sotiris. You're still an alright guy in my book.

    I hate to admit this, but loafers are starting to slightly appeal to me. Yuck.
     
    3 people like this.
  8. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I do my best to wear all of shoes at least once every other week, or every 3rd. There are inevitably some that get more wear than others, either my wet weather shoes, or a few pairs that I just like a lot.

    Regarding the comments about lasts, I would not do the 888 on the Dover I dont think. In general, despite your guyses senseless dislike of more chiseled lasts, they are my favorite for a jacket and tie attire. I try to have my jacket and tie fits on the slimmer/closer/shapelier side, without being uncomfortable or fashion forward, as such, I feel the more chiseled lasts just look better there. Its also just a shape that appeals to me more. I like how it looks. My faves being the MH71, TG73, U, Simpson and 888. I love the Deco but I dont think I have the right build for it. Its a bridge too far even for me. If I liked a more drapey, off the body, fit of my clothes, I would probably veer more towards rounder lasts.

    However, with my more casual fits, I prefer a less sleek last, and I usually pair my F lasts, Marlows, or rounder AS boots with that stuff.

    So really, for me, its more about, as usual, coherency. I like the last to make sense with what Im wearing. Now, obviously there are rounder lasts that would work just fine with the jacket and tie fits I sport, but it looks better to me, with a sleeker shoe, plus I like the sleeker shoe, so I go that route.

    So really for real really, its a mix of coherency and being a chiseled last ho-bag.
     
  9. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  10. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    @in stitches What wingtips were you wearing with the new Panta DB suit you posted last week? Those I really dug and they seemed less pointy than some of your other GG.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I have 12 pairs of shoes. During the week I rotate my 4 black cap toes, and black loafers on Friday's. During the weekend I usually wear one of my two pairs of suede loafers, or one of my two pairs of boots if it's bad weather.

    That means 9 pairs get worn regularly, and the other 3 are worn maybe once a month. The only shoes I'd still buy are a pair of burgundy shell long wings for weekend wear and black bal boots for when it's bad weather during the weekdays.

    Being limited to wearing black cap toes only during the work week really limits the amount of shoes you can wear, and consequently can buy. I suppose it's a good thing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Thanks! Those are the first pair of high end shoes I ever bought. G&G Westminsters on the MH71 in Vintage Oak, from Bespoke England. The 71s are much more "normcore" than the 73s or the 70s. I have 3 pairs on the 71, 2 on the 73, one on the 70 (probably going to sell those), and one on the 06.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I'm on the same page. I'm at 13 pairs of shoes and boots with no real need to add anything else. Sleeker lasts for my cap toes (Carmina Inca and Rain) to go with suits, more rounded lasts for everything else. Even one pair of shell loafers for wearing with jeans in the spring and summer. I would love to get a pair of tobacco suede chukkas in a round last, but have not because I recognize I won't really have the occasions to wear them right now.

    I'm starting to think the Carminas you returned are a tough fit for many. The Rain last is already fairly wide, but the suede stretches ridiculously easy and the sole is fairly thick, which leaves me using tongue pads and still gettting some heel slip. I love the shoes, but they are my worst fitting Carminas.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    :) for dame page :( for ill fitting lasts.

    After some quick research I quite like the 82 last as well.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. Rahat

    Rahat New Member

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    Oct 25, 2013
    Mostly I wear black shoe. It suits me perfect with black court.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Those Westministers are definite keepers. I love those shoes.
     
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    <3

    ZOMG me too !

    But I dont wear them nearly enough. For shame.
     
  18. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Feb 19, 2013
    Just pedantics FYI..chiseled =/= square.

    StC Riva last, for example, is a chiseled round toe. Both below are Riva last; chisel rerfers to the chisel-like sloping of the toebox in the side view.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    G&G TG73 is an example of square chiseled.
    G&G MH71 is soft-square chiseled.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  19. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    Rabat, Morocco
    How about some pics of the shoe collections just like we had with the shirt collections? That was some good learning!

    Also, would anybody be willing to share some specific recommendations for your first 2 pairs of shoes for CBD? Around the $300 - $350 price range if that is doable.
     
  20. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Easy....black and brown captoe oxfords. With the current exchange rates, you can get great deals on Carmina from the likes of Skoak and even direct through Carmina's web store.

    I can snap a shot of one of my shoe racks later.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    1 person likes this.

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