Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I agree with gdl here. I think the length looks great. Why mess with it? That's pretty much how all of my SCs look in the length department. Get the sleeves shortened, take in the waist to your liking and just enjoy it man.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Uploaded a pic of the proposed alterations

    At minimum, I'd shorten to the red line.

    I'm not sure if that operation would throw off the balance of the jacket. As ed pointed out, the button point is already low. Also, have to consider the curvature of the quarters and how such an alteration would affect their shape.

    A skilled tailor (read: NOT a corner dry cleaner w/ an alterations business) might charge something like $150 to $200 for such a procedure.

    Not worth the risk IMO.

    Just put it on the B&S. Someone will snap it up.

     


  3. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    No shortage of strong opinions here.

    Greg, I think you mean to say you want to virtually throttle me.

    Oddly, to my eye, the hopsack looks a hair longer than the suit jacket, and that's comparing the similar shots I posted a bit back not the one with my arms in "buttoning position".

    @TweedyProf I kind of see what you mean about the downward angle, though it took me a moment to figure out what you were talking about. Perhaps it is due to the transition from a shorter back length to a longer front?

    These pics are within a few days of being out of the box, although I noticed the jacket needs a light pressing due to transport, as the right lapel rolls down pretty much to the bottom button. Not sure if pressing would affect this slight angle (probably not, my guess), and also whether it would affect how the quarters open.

    Edit: I just looked back at the similarly positioned side by side between the 2 jackets and that "angle" looks fairly consistent between the 2. The reason the suit jacket looks less angled is because my arms are up at button height.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  4. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    let's start real slow with purchases. Pictues of what you have should help. I will let others chime in but welcome!
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  5. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I was looking at the top one specifically, which appears to be a full inch longer than the bottom one based on those images. Worn as an odd jacket the length issue is even more apparent, it makes his legs look short. If AJL was longer legged naturally a longer length would help balance that, but from that image it appears it's not the case. Even is he was, a 30 inch BOC length is still too long for someone a full 7 inches shorter than I am.

    The bottom one looks ok to me and the less curved fronts do help visually with that I think.
     


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    spoken like a true "grad"

    now if we could just get your measuring stuff...
     


  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Was at Nordstroms and tried on 50R Zegna today. I looked at my shoulders and chest. It looked bad. So I tried on a 52R. I "graduated" from sticking with some conjured up size that is perfect for me. I dont look at the # on the label but the fit.
     


  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I recently gave a few jackets to my father (they are too tight around the waist for him, but he never buttons jackets anyway).

    Anyway, there was nothing wrong with these jackets really, and I liked the fabric, but for some reason I was never happy with the way the jackets looked on me, even if they were well received on WAYWRN.

    Sometimes, no amount of mental coaxing can cause a person to like something on himself that he doesn't feel comfortable in. I'm not saying this is necessarily the case with AJL and that Formosa...but if it is, then it might be time to cut losses regardless of whether others like it.

    FWIW, it does seem long--though not egregiously so--and 30BOC for someone 5'7 does seem a bit much. But if he were happy with it, it wouldn't be something I'd've commented on.

    ------

    I'm looking forward to helping mdancel after I'm off mobile.
     


  9. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Fudge. The person that I live with thinks the Formosa suits look retro, especially due to the wide lapels. Don't care. I luv its bawse look.

    @Claghorn
    Welcome back. Hope to see you more here since you started this thread :laugh:

    Aight. This suit that I got thru a trade. The person that I live with thinks I look like a grandpa in this and think I should just give it away. We talk a lot about fashion since she does have good taste. But I am starting to tune her out when she starts talking menswear (suits). Anyhow, I googled grey chalkstripe suits and the images dont look all that great. Anyone seen something like this done well?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Totally agree.

    Listen to gdl here. Return them if you really can't deal with what seems to be a classic length (I can't see why you'd want to do this, but that's your choice...), but don't even think of trying to get jackets shortened. It's expensive, requires more skill than is possessed by the average alterations tailor who will mainly specialise in taking up trousers and jacket sleeves, and the almost inevitable result is a jacket that is either subtly or obviously lacking in balance: the position of the buttoning point and the pockets will seem 'slightly wrong', which will annoy you even more than the length does now.

    I did it once. That was enough to learn my lesson. Apart from that one suit, I have jackets of different lengths, but they are all the length they were cut to be!
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Your wife likes the Galaxy? :brick:

     


  12. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    I'm 6'2 and for a dressy SC to be worn with dress trousers and tie...and also for suits...I prefer a 31.5ish BOC

    For very casual SC's I like a 30.5-31ish...

    too short is a bad thing...I prefer the more traditional jackets that are longer...
     


  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    So do a lot of people! I get compliments when I wear the Galaxy suit almost every time! No joke.

    Almost kopped this 52R Zegna. But look similar to glen plaid.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Poor AJL!

    Lengthwise the suit looks fine and if the SC the same length. I think that's fine too. Ed Morel made the very important point against shortening namely throwing off the already low button stance. Since you can't change the location of the button, don't shorten.

    Now i do think that if you are 5'7" then a shorter BOC is probably something to consider to lengthen the leg line (not that you're short!). If I go by the placement of the hem relative to the fork in the trouser then you could lose an inch on the jacket and still cover the seat (of course this is from a pic). The jacket would look proportionate to your arms and still be balanced top-bottom in terms of how it segments the upper from lower body. But try shorter ones on to see if it makes that difference to you. I think a 29" length would be fine but one has to see.

    From the side, the front is not drastically longer than the back, yes?
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  15. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    Noodles, is it the grey chalk stripe flannel that you are concerned about. I have one and dont feel like a grandad in it, but foe the anti-GD I'll ppint you to Spoo.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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