Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    JL

    The thing that is jumping out at me is the way the quarters open on the SC. It's sitting oddly on your hips with the front of the jacket angling down (this is why I'm curious how it looks from the side). If this is important to you, can you please take pictures of both jackets now that the latter has settled a bit in the closet.

    I also think 30 inches BOC is a bit long. That's ideal for me and I'm 6 feet (my pant inseams are usually about 32 inches for reference).

    I do think the suit looks ok for length though.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I know we've exchanged thoughts on the subject and I really don't want to sound condescending or unnecessarily biased here (I'm happy to tell people when something they bought from us doesn't fit) but I want to virtually shake you here and ask you to look at these pictures !

    Maybe Manton and I are the only two dinosaurs left on SF who haven't evolved to the short jacket world, but I'm honestly at a loss that anyone would think this doesn't look good. You should feel blessed to have a jacket fit as well RTW out of the box without any alterations yet. This, to me, looks like a better fit than 90% of waywrn. That's a great percentile to be in...

    The idea that this is so long to be returned/sold is entirely ludicrous to me. Complete nonsense. As to the idea of shortening by 0.5", I think you know my views on this. I'd urge you to get the sleeves tailored and start enjoying and wearing your great looking jackets but it doesn't sound like this is the kind of advice that you want to hear. Most here are telling you to do the same, but somehow it doesn't sound like those voices are being heard either.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  3. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    30 BOC far too long for 5'7". I'm 7 inches taller than you and take a 30.5".

    Jrd seems to be the only one talking sense here. I'd cut your losses and sell it otherwise you'll end up with an expensive coat that never gets worn or is ruined by a tailor. The amount the sleeves need to come up should have been the first indication. Your a short, not a R. Take away the fact its a Formosa for a minute.
     


  4. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Are you seeing the same pictures I'm looking at?
     


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    1) I really doubt this alteration would cost that much

    2) you are probably getting low quality bespoke for that price, which is usually a losing proposition IMHO
     


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    30 inches BOC is the standard on a lot of 40R conservative cut jackets for Corneliani, Caruso, etc. I don't find those brands to be particularly "trendy" with skinny lapels or short jackets.

    40S is more like 28-29.5 range
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not so bothered by the length as we all do it mostly by eye in our own jackets initially and decide what we like. It's not a deal breaker for me here. But I'm wondering why the SC angles down in the front. I assume AJL put this on out of the box. Would it look different now that it's been hung on a hanger for a few days?
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    And they are short. At 5'10" most of my jackets are between 30.5 to 31.25 but I have a 6'2" wingspan though.

    I think I have 2 that are 30ish and I only wear them casually.


    @AJL you know how I feel about that jacket, it's long but on the acceptable side of long. Alter the sleeve length and enjoy.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I will say that a lot of the recent Brooks Brothers jackets in 40R are very short. I'd have to size up to 40L.

    Probably the same thing for Eidos. I've been eyeing that blue donegal, but the 40R's are too short
     


  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    JL is 3 inches shorter than you though...

     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Thom Browne effect?
     


  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ Indeed. The TB cropped jacket look has trickled down from Black Fleece to the mainline SC's
     


  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    AJL also has long arms too so the length doesn't look unusual IMO. I actually like the length with the very open quarters unlike the shorter jackets with similar quarters we've seen that puts all the attention on the hips.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    OK, I'd raise the 40R range to 30.5 inches BOC.

    Still too long on AJ

     


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Forget the numbers and just look at the jacket. To me it looks good, but if AJ thinks it might look better shorter, then he should pin it, look at it, and then decide. Don't see what the big deal is.
     


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