Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    As someone between an R and an L in most OTR cuts, I've had a half dozen or so jackets shortened. Here are two things I've come to learn:

    1. People telling you to pin it first to see how it looks are 100% correct. My jackets with higher pockets and buttoning points look great and no one would have any clue they were shortened. My jackets with lower pockets/buttoning points look off.

    2. When talking a half inch or so, I never shorten the jacket. It's not enough of a difference to take the chance on how it will look finished.

    Just passing this experience along. From your pictures, your patch pockets and buttoning point are pretty low, so would exercise caution in messing with your jacket, especially with those beautiful quarters.
     


  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Ok. Who wants to chime in on this? Is it Groundhog Day again? I don't know.

    So as I gear up for another Formosa suit, I initially thought about getting a Navy birdseye suit. But then I realized that it is a bit similar to the glen plaid navy that I have. So I got to thinking why not the PoW or the sharkskin grey that would atrribute to variety in my closet.
     


  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Could you wear PoW to the office and not have it be too much?

    Do you have enough staple suits where you can begin mixing it up?
     


  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    Definitely sharkskin grey. You don't need the grey PoW right now. You have your wedding windowpane suit and the blue plaid suit. I would not recommend another strong pattern right now. So grey sharkskin would be first on my list for you, followed by a solid/semi-solid navy.
     


  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Noodles. The sharkskin. You need more solids.
     


  6. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    @tm79
    Hmmm...
    I never thought about how PoW would look at work surrounded by bunchbof dark navy or black suits. Let me try in some sharskin suits from SS and see how it looks with my skin color (yes, I am say8ng it again).
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Buy the stuff you need before the stuff you want. You can be well dressed for life without a POW suit (though they can look really cool). You cannot be well dressed for life without solid navy and grey suits.
     


  8. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback re Draper's hopsack. I had definitely considered the aspects of pocket height and buttoning point, so good to confirm these are valid concerns.

    Here's one to test your visual/sartorial acuity:

    Below again the SC in question:

    [​IMG]

    And now, a few shots of the Noodles Formosa in ostensibly the same size:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So, what differences are you seeing (besides shoulder expression and pockets), if any? I believe I see some fairly obvious ones (though the cause and effect part may be less obvious), but will reserve commentary until hearing what the Style Council has to offer. I realize the comparison photos are not nec. apples to apples, and, as always, pardon the shitty quality of same.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  10. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    5' 7"
     


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ You need a shorter BOC length for sure. 29ish might be better

    I vote sell/return that Formosa

    You're probably going to spend at least another $200 on the shortening procedure at a very good tailor. For that price ($1750 including the alteration), you could go bespoke. Not worth the extra money and risk involved with the procedure
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014


  12. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    Hi Noodlers,

    This is my first post on SF. This thread seems like a friendly place to start. I’m in a career transition so I have had lots of free time and finally had a chance to dive in here and read most of the 800+ pages on this thread.

    A bit of background...A few years ago I got a 1 year job where I had to wear suits everyday. I signed up for SF back then but didn't ever dive in. It's a shame because I made some purchases that weren't, well let's say, the best investment L I guess it’s all part of the journey.

    In a month or two I will be starting a new job/career where I’ll be wearing suits pretty much 5 days a week.

    I’m ready to make the move up to some quality stuff and want to do it right.

    I wish I could just go on a shopping spree to kick start the makeover however in order to protect my marriage and feed my kids I’m going to have to do this in a calculated and planned manner.

    My current wardrobe is:

    Suits: Solid navy, navy with pin stripes, charcoal grey, mid grey, charcoal grey with chalk stripes, brown and black.

    Shirts; I’ve got about 15 shirts – mostly light solids and some white based shirts with some patterns.

    Ties: I’ve got a bunch of ties that have come from Tie Bar and discount stores like Marshalls.

    I envision over the next few years all this stuff will be gone and replaced with quality stuff that I love.

    For this first year I was thinking about this:

    1 Shoes: $300
    1 Belt: $100
    5 Ties: $400 - $500
    5 Pocket Squares: $200 - $250
    3 Shirts: 3 x $100 = $300
    1 Suit: $800 - $1000
    TOTAL is around =$2500ish so $220ish a month roughly. I know that’s not a lot but that’s likely a number that would work with other expenses.

    After reading through the thread I’ve got some clarifying questions I would like to ask as dive into the details.

    Before diving into the details though I would love to get your feedback on my overall approach and budget for the first year. Does this seem like I am on the right track? Does the budget seem realistic and distributed properly?

    I’m really looking forward to this makeover adventure. Great thing is I’m in it for the long haul.

    PS. Feel free to assign homework. I'm ready to start learning. [​IMG]
     


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ How many shoes do you own currently? For $300 you could get something nice from Herring Shoes.

    I'd get more shirts if I were you. 18 is over two weeks worth, but it's nice not to have to be laundering them all the time. I have something like 40 shirts :hide:
     


  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Scratch the PS budget, and buy a simple plain white linen one instead. That should suffice for a year. Put that money either towards a nicer suit or shoes. The tie budget can be brought down by a $100 as well.
     




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