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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    New Zealand
    Not the best angle sorry - thoughts on the combination?

    [​IMG]

    Jacket: cantarelli
    Tie: liverano
    Pocket square: Gucci
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    First one seems not too bad to me but does need shortening in the body and sleeves. Caveat: I'm a newbie
     
  3. tristanFH

    tristanFH Active Member

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    I'm not a regular poster here, but I think this looks good. I wish the tie didn't have that bold herringbone texture up close, though...
     
  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hard to tell in those pics though I can see why you think it long. Still you have big cuffs on the denim and that might influence how things look...i.e. it might make your legs look shorter than they are (and angle is off). The first covers the seat for sure. I'm guessing the second is fine but without full length hard to know. I don't think 0.5 inches should really matter here.

    If you feel the first too long, then I'd return it. If it feels to long to you, then no matter who says it is fine, you'll still be bothered by it in a month.

    What's your height and typical inseam? There are so many ways of deciding length that balances: (a) bottom to top balance (so roughly cutting the body in a balanced way); (b) covering seat; (c) relation to hands; (d) relation to the length of your leg (or your torso). And of course, as there is no formula, there are matters of taste and preference.
     
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tie is interesting...I've been wondering about tri-color striped ties and not sure if I like them or not. But I like the colors on it.

    I'm not feeling the pairing with the square, however. The green in the square is good with the tie, but it otherwise feels like a spring square and a fall tie. Plus both are rather energetic and so really are competing against each other in different ways. Is that a pink shirt? You are in spring/summer yes down in NZ?

    I am in the camp of having a small puff for a square. That you have one already stands out. No need for it to be exploding out of the chest pocket.
     
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  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    For starters, jfrat, at a glance it looks pretty nice. Now, to take things to the next level.

    1. I agree with Tweedy about the tie and square together.

    2. I will add to that the the jacket seems city and the tie country. I know it has a patch breath pocket, which brings down the formality a bit, but it still looks like a much slicker fabric than the chunky tie, a little incoherent. Is it a suit or SC?

    3. Before I comment on the shirt, what color is it?
     
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  7. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    @jfrater all input welcome, thanks. Inspiring to see your improvements.

    @TweedyProf ah, hadn't thought of the impact of cuffs, good point. Height is 6' inseam shy of 32. The rule of thumb I've seen on the board is height/2 - 4, which puts me at a length of 32, but I take your point that there are many influences. Frustrating when no length appears great X(
     
  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    @JIMB , i like the fit of that second rust colored jacket.
     
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  9. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Late to the party, but shirts, two or three of which might be pink or lavender. Some all linen and linen/cotton , end on ends, and gingham or candy stripes that only get worn in warm weather. A few shirts in the wash as always so they are not shown.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  10. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Where are the wire hangers???
     
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I wish I had the closet space for wooden hangers for all my shirts. Le sigh.
     
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  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    It slipped out while I was sitting - it's a very light cotton. I normally prefer a smaller puff too. The shirt is more a lilac than a pink and yes it's summer here :) I didn't really think about the fact that the tie is autumnal - I will consider that when choosing in future too. I had to wear that tie out at least once because I had lusted after it for some time :)
     
  13. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    @The Noodles , I launder and iron my own shirts so I have no wire dry cleaning hangers.


    @in stitches you can either. A, kop less, B, purge more or C. get a home with more closets!
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Kind of working on C. And by working on, I mean hoping to win the lottery.
     
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  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    The jacket is a jacket only - and it is a little rough in texture. Here's a better picture of it:

    [​IMG]

    The shirt is solid lilac. The square is a light cotton - the one on the top right:

    [​IMG]
     
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You and I are same height and inseam (close enough). I find 29.5 the shortest I will go, which is not ideal, but I live with it, with 30 as my ideal. 30.5 is ok, but 31 feels too long. But I'm happy with a one inch range on length. Perhaps those numbers might work for you too. So, I think the brown linen is probably fine and the Eidos too long though not obscenely (i.e. if you really love the suit, then I'd think ok to keep).
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Our apartment came with really great floor-to-ceiling wardrobes in addition to a walk-in closet fortunately. My wife got the walk-in and half of the wardrobes, but what I have works. Except for shoe storage which I need a solution for. This is for suits/jackets/trousers. The shirts from the other pic are in a identically sized wardrobe that has a different configuration with more racks like this one has at the top for jeans, sweaters, socks etc.

    [​IMG]

    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Viola Milano? They had lots of tricolors this season.

    The colors are very autumnal and with the strong herringbone, doesn't mesh so well with the rest of the outfit which has the look of spring. There's a drake indigo raw silk from this past season SS which might be nice in that fit: purple-blue, but light enough.
     
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Jfrat, a pic of the fit from earlier, but with better lighting to properly reflect the color of the jacket, would make feedback more accurate, if you are able to do that.
     
  20. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    The tie is Liverano and Liverano from The Armoury. Where would I find the drakes you mentioned?
     

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